Do French and American Women Have Different Hair Goals?
"I don't like those too-modern salons where you feel like you're going to get a surgery," says colorist Christophe Robin, gesturing toward the jewel box–like interior of his new HQ, which is strewn with Tony Duquette malachite-print pillows, luxe art tomes, and canine-themed vintage tchotchkes. If you're lucky enough to be one of Robin's A-list clients-Natalie Portman, Dakota Johnson, Tilda Swinton, raven-haired Eva Green (who is actually a natural blonde), or grande dame Catherine Deneuve-you'll be discreetly ushered in through a secret entrance just off Paris's Rue Bachaumont. But anyone can feel like a star here: Clients are swathed not in blah-black synthetic robes but in vibrantly hued silk kimonos. There's even a boutique in the front where curious passersby can stop in to wash their own hair, gratis, in a giant seashell-shaped sink.
Ever since Robin's first big break, when, in the late '80s and still only a teenager, he colored supermodel Stephanie Seymour's hair for a commercial, he's marched to the beat of his own drum. He created his unique, innovative line, much of which is based on what he calls "granny recipes"-traditional hair brightening and strengthening methods incorporating natural ingredients-while also working with L'Oréal to develop high-performance at-home color. "All of my products are more long-term, so you'll need to use them two or three times to see a big difference, but after that your hair will be stable," he says. "Everyone wants to see results right away, but quick results are often just hiding the problem."
Women often come to you for corrective color. What are the worst things you see?
Every day I have a new client who comes in because her color isn't right. Usually, her hair is fried because she wanted to achieve something that was impossible for her hair type, and yet a colorist did it anyway. It's very difficult to work with burned hair, because it's so fragile. I give them a regimen of deep conditioning to use for a week, then ask them to come back for the color when their hair is healthier.
What process is usually the culprit?
Bleach [on] people whose hair is too dark to go platinum. I hate that, because it never lasts long; you have to touch up the regrowth every two weeks, and afterward the hair is fried. Nature does a good job. If you are meant to have dark hair, it looks cheap when you go blond. If you're 18 years old and a pop star, then it works. But not in real life.
Before you color hair, you saturate it in oil. Why?
I use my Moisturizing Hair Oil with Lavender. It helps the product grab better, but it's protective at the same time. It equalizes the quality of the hair from root to tip so that you get a very uniform application of color. It's similar to preparing skin for makeup by moisturizing and making sure the skin is in good condition first.
You also avoid using styling products after color, don't you?
Yes. I don't like styling products. They make the hair very dirty, and some of them, like waxes, grab on, and you can't wash them out easily. Elnett hair spray is the only styling product we use in the salon. I predry the hair a little bit and then spray a small amount of Elnett onto the roots. It's never sticky; it never makes the hair look dull. Plus, it brushes out, so you don't have to wash the hair.
Do French and American women have different hair goals?
French women aren't willing to change their color every season. The Parisian brunette wants no mahogany, no warmth in her hair; she likes it a little ashy, so it looks natural. Americans are very particular about their blond, but they're more likely to experiment.
THE ESSENTIALS
1. Christophe Robin Regenerating Hair Finish Lotion with Hibiscus Vinegar ($40, sephora.com) "balances the hair's pH to protect color and add shine," Robin says. "It's also antibacterial, so it keeps the hair and scalp fresh between shampoos."
2. Christophe Robin Moisturizing Hair Oil with Lavender ($47, sephora.com) can be used prior to color application at home, to protect hair when swimming, or as a hydrating overnight mask.
3. Robin uses a classic Mason Pearson brush ($110, neimanmarcus.com) "to detangle and put oil into the hair" before applying color.
4. To extend the life of a blow-out, Robin loves oil-absorbing L'Oréal Paris Extraordinary Clay Dry Shampoo ($6.99, lorealparisusa.com), which sprays on clear.
5. "I'm crazy about the Dyson hair dryer ($399.99, ulta.com)," he says. "It works really well, it's very light, and it's the quietest I've ever tried."
This article originally appeared in the March 2017 issue of ELLE.
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