Cecilie Bahnsen RTW Fall 2023

For Cecilie Bahnsen, creating a collection is like a diary where one can “look at everything you’ve created before, put it together but keep elevating it, challenging yourself and turning it on its head.”

While her dreamy fabric concoctions put her on the fashion map — and are said to still account for 50 percent of a business on track to hit $10 million in sales this year, according to industry sources — what she wanted to look at this season is “something you just want to wear on a Monday,” she said backstage.

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But in the Bahnsen world, fun or special pieces aren’t just occasion outfits, and daily options don’t have to be pedestrian. Though the fall silhouette was cut closer to the body, with pencil skirts and nipped in waists, outerwear came with puffy sleeves. There was black and white, but she offset those with yellows, bright blues and pinks in patchworked gradients. Even denim, offered in black or dark blue, came cut in a smart peplum jacket or a shirt zhuzhed up with ruching.

And inspired by the concept of “Gesamtkunstwerk,” or “total work of art” in German, the show was not just about the clothes but a happening that included an installation by lighting designer Jesper Kongshaug and a live musical showcase by Paris-based singer-songwriter Suki.

Collaborations continued in the same vein as last season, with billowing raincoats thanks to an ongoing hookup with British outerwear label Mackintosh, and production-ready sneakers with Asics that expanded on last season’s teaser of deadstock kicks.

With all that, here’s to betting the Bahnsen set will find things for Monday — and every day.

Launch Gallery: Cecilie Bahnsen RTW Fall 2023

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