Why You Can’t Visit Spain Without Seeing Bilbao
Rocky, seaside San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a hermitage with stunning views, is a perfect day trip from Bilbao. (Photo: Getty Creative)
By Kirsten Fleming
Nestled between rolling green hills, the industrial port city of Bilbao has neither the crystal blue waters of nearby San Sebastian nor a robust roster of Michelin-starred restaurants like its neighboring towns in northern Spain.
But since the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim opened in 1997, the bustling capital of the Vizcaya province has become a destination offering old-world charm, trippy architecture (Santiago Calatrava, of the bird-like World Trade Center transportation hub, designed the airport) and a proud Basque identity all its own.
1. Start with art
Rising from the banks of the Nervion River, Gehry’s iconic wavy structure revived the once-dingy city. Before entering the marvelous building, visitors are greeted by Jeff Koons’ charming “Puppy,” a 43-foot-tall sculpture covered in flowers. Inside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, there are permanent exhibitions, including larger-than-life works by Richard Serra, and temporary gems, like a Jean-Michel Basquiat retrospective, on view until Nov.
Related: The Perfect 36 Hours in Bilbao
2. ‘Hang’ out
Known as the Puente Colgante, or “hanging bridge,” Vizcaya Bridge was built in 1893. Instead of riding atop the red span, people and cars travel in a shuttle that runs underneath it. Pedestrians can take an elevator to the top and walk across what became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006. It can easily be accessed through Bilbao’s metro system.
3. Grab some grub
Missing Cafe Iruna would be like skipping a visit with your wonderfully eccentric and stylish great-aunt. With colorful Moorish decor, pintxos (small bites) aplenty, and a boisterous vibe, this grand dame of Bilbao haunts is an essential stop — especially for its popular Moroccan lamb skewers, which always draw a line of hungry revelers. Have a bite before walking 15 minutes to the quirky Casco Viejo — the scenic old part of the city, dating back to medieval times, with its narrow streets and central cathedral.
4. Are you ready for some football?
Even non-sports fans would appreciate the rousing atmosphere at Bilbao’s San Mames Stadium — Athletic Bilbao’s new digs. The soccer team, which plays in La Liga, is only made up of players who are either from the Basque Country or who have trained there. The season lasts through the spring. Just remember the “Aupa Athletic” chant.
5. View from the top
Take a day trip to San Juan Gaztelugatxe, a 9th-century hermitage that sits atop a rocky islet overlooking the beautiful Bay of Biscay. The trek includes a 200-plus rocky steps, but you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views and the chance to ring the bell in its chapel. It’s best to rent a car and stop in charming towns like Mundaka and Bermeo on the way, or the hermitage can be reached via public buses to Bakio. Either way, wear sneakers and comfortable clothes for the hike.
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