Krakow: Start with Pierogi Tasting and End with Dancing and a Stroll Along the River
Ah, Thursday night — the only truly social night of the week. It’s the night when babysitters are booked, friends convene, and drinks are imbibed. There are no family obligations to fulfill, no amateurish weekend crowds to elbow through — and the possibilities are endless. The night starts after work and ends whenever you want. In any city. All over the world. This week, we’re presenting the perfect Thursday night in Krakow, Poland.
Beautiful Krakow (Photo: Dziewul/iStock/Thinkstock)
By Suzanne Rozdeba
Krakow is one of the oldest cities in Poland and one of the most beautiful in the world. It’s an easy city to navigate. You can taste-test pierogi, travel back in time to medieval days at an underground museum, down shots of local vodka at dimly-lit cafes, and take a moonlit walk beneath a castle, all in one night.
4 p.m.
Krakow’s main square (Photo: Agnieszka Gaul/E+/Getty Images)
So much shopping, so little time. (Photo: Mattia Panciroli/Flickr)
Shop in Sukiennice, the 13th-century Cloth Hall in Rynek Glowny,Krakow’s main square. Stock up on amber jewelry (amber trees are a popular gift and supposed to bring good luck), hand-painted pottery and jewelry boxes, and sheep’s-wool slippers.
5 p.m.
Rynek Underground (Photo: Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland/Flickr)
Explore the Rynek Underground Museum beneath the Cloth Hall. The archaeological site and its impressive multimedia elements take you back to the city’s medieval days.
People-watch at a café. (Photo: Grant Faint/Photographer’s Choice RF/Getty Images)
Then when you resurface, taste-test Polish beer (I recommend Zywiec or Okocim) at one of the cafés lining the square, while watching horse-drawn carriages pass by. Café Restaurant Europejska or Da Pietro are perfect people-watching spots. Or head above the Cloth Hall to Cafe Szal to watch the sunset while nibbling on Sukiennice cake, layered with caramel, white and milk chocolate, ladyfingers, and almonds. (It’s as delicious as it sounds!)
7 p.m.
Zapiecek is no-frills, but the food is delish. (Photo: Adam Fagen/Flickr)
It’s time to eat some pierogi. Indulge at Zapiecek, a no-frills spot on Slawkowska Street. Twelve zloty ($4) will get you a plate of pierogi with mushrooms and cabbage, or a sweeter version with mint, lemon curd, and cottage cheese. Pair your pierogi with a steaming cup of red borscht.
Red borscht with uszka (aka, dumplings) (Photo: Tripadvisor)
Zurek (Photo: Moritz Bernoully/Flickr)
For an overindulgent meal with hunks of bread smothered with lard, zurek (a creamy soup with white kielbasa), piles of pierogi, and every skewered meat imaginable, dine at Ogniem i Mieczem, meaning “With Fire and Sword.” Named after the historical novel by Henryk Sienkiewicz, it’s located on Serkowskiego Square and styled as a 17th-century tavern.
9 p.m.
Pauza (Photo: Klub Pauza/Facebook)
Now that you’re feeling totally stuffed, you’re ready to soak up some Polish vodka. (You can buy a shot-glass necklace — this actually exists — at some tourist shops). At Pauza on Florianska Street, trendy Poles and tourists mix at the dimly-lit bar, where celebrity snapshots adorn the walls. It’s housed one flight up in one of the quaint, old buildings that line the picturesque street. Snag a seat by the windows to see the crowds and British bachelor parties go by. Order a wsciekly pies, “mad dog” shots with vodka, Tabasco, and raspberry or blackcurrant syrup. Or take a walk on the lighter side with wisniowka, a cherry liqueur. On the same street, Beer House is also great, not only for its cozy, casual atmosphere (it’s a central spot to catch a soccer game), but for its history. (It just happens to be the apartment in which this author’s grandmother and grandfather lived when they got married).
(Photo: Greg&Tom Beer House Hostel/Facebook)
Kazimierz, the city’s old Jewish quarter, also has some of the city’s most popular bars, where klezmer music is regularly played at dimly-lit spots like Singer, which is decorated with antique furniture, candles, and oversized wooden tables. Tabletop dancing after midnight is the norm. Alchemia is another popular spot to catch world musicians in concert.
Alchemia (Photo: Jacek P./Flickr)
Rykarda Parasol at Alchemia (Photo: Klub Alchemia/Facebook)
11 p.m.
Carpe Diem II Klub (Photo: Carpe Diem II Krakow/Facebook)
Dance to hard rock and metal hits at Carpe Diem II Klub on Slawkowska Street. A 20-something crowd frequents the two bars and dance floor. The basement club, Prozak 2.0, on Dominikanski Square and Frantic Club on Szewska Street play the latest in European pop and techno.
1 a.m.
Zapiekanka (Photo: Artlensfoto/iStock/Thinkstock)
Poles like to end the night with a zapiekanka, a toasted half-baguette often topped with cheese, mushrooms, and a spiced-up version of ketchup. The tastiest ones are at Endzior in Plac Nowy, the small square in the old Jewish quarter, but they can be found on almost every corner near the main square.
(Photo: Matthew Savage/Flickr)
Before hitting the sack, take a moonlit walk to clear your head along the Vistula River, where you’ll find a stunning view of the breathtaking Wawel Castle, perched on a hill above. The effects of too many pierogi and mad dog shots will disappear as you take in the quiet beauty of the city at night.
Check out more Thursday Nights around the world!
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