The Perfect Weekend in Cartagena
I wasn’t expecting to be wowed by Cartagena. In fact I was sort of expecting it to be an over-touristed cruise stop that had been cleaned up and wrapped in a pretty bow — a place that really wasn’t representative of the rest of the city, country, or culture. But from the first night when I found myself having dinner with locals oozing hospitality and authenticity, I realized I had Cartagena all wrong.
In my five short days there, I did a lot — some traditional tourist experiences, some local experiences, and some “Are you sure you should do that?” experiences. It was the perfect introduction to a Cartagena that has nothing to do with cruise ships.
Get Oriented and Enjoy the View
When I arrive in a city, I like to find the highest point. It’s a way to get oriented and a way to get great photos. (Photo: Justin Weiler)
If you are anything like me, then you love to read a map when you arrive in a new destination. And it’s even better when you can get an aerial view of a place to help you understand where you’ve been and where you are yet to go. In Cartagena, that view is best at the Convento de la Popa. Standing 150 meters high, you need to traverse a number of switchbacks to reach the top of the hill, where you venture inside the convent to see artifacts and learn about the history of the area, or simply enjoy heavenly views of the city.
This Is Not Your Typical Fruit Vendor
For a cool snack, purchase fresh fruit from Cartagena’s iconic palenquera women. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
Your eyes will be drawn immediately to the bright dresses peppered around the Old City of Cartagena — the customary attire of Palenquera women. They sit in the shadow of the old city walls selling fruit, which is precariously balanced on their heads. The palenqueras represent the difficult, complicated past of their ancestors and the history of slavery in Colombia.
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But on a lighter note, they also sell delicious fresh fruit; they’ll speedily cut up a platter for you from their large basket. It’s a great cool snack for the afternoon heat and a glimpse into Cartagena’s past.
Don’t Just Eat Salsa, Learn How to Salsa
Don’t miss a chance to dance — in Cartagena, you can learn Colombian salsa. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
It was a hot steamy night as I walked up the stairs into the dance studio and startled the tall man lounging on a metal chair. He didn’t speak English, but that was okay, as all I had to do was follow his lead. He turned on the overhead fans, looked at me, smiled, and a barrage of Spanish started flowing. I just smiled back and followed his steps, learning both Colombian and Cuban versions of salsa.
Request a Miracle
Every year on February 2, a procession up to Convento de la Popa prays for miracles. The ones that have come true are represented by charms displayed inside the convent. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
Charms hang from the wall enclosed in glass because they are special — each representing a miracle come true. Every February 2, the miraculous power of Convento de la Popa is celebrated through an elaborate procession up the tallest point in Cartagena. Traversing multiple switchbacks, the procession stops at each of the stations of the cross along the route to say prayers and ask for miracles to be performed. The charms hanging in the chapel represent miracles that were answered.
Visit a Castle Without a King
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas took 104 years to build. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is not and never was a castle. It was actually a fort masquerading as a palace. Armed with 53 cannons and massive walls, it took 104 years to build and was created to defend an attack from the north and east. Today, however, it’s a major landmark that provides a lovely view of the city and a glimpse into Cartagena’s colonial history. Wander through the tunnel system and be sure to take aim with one of the big cannons!
Brave the Bazurto Market
Bazurto Market gets a bad rap, but it’s definitely worth a visit. Just beware of pickpockets. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
I find the best places to visit in the world are the ones that people give you warnings about. Bazurto Market in Cartagena was no exception. Listen to the warnings — “Beware of pickpockets!” “Take off all your jewelry before you go!” — but don’t let them stop you from going to one of the best markets I’ve ever been to. A maze full of gory, gritty, pungent animal parts, but mixed with smiles, dancing and enthusiasm like no other. Impromptu jam sessions, children running around playing, people drinking beer and socializing, men using razor sharp knives while not even looking at what they were cutting. Go early in the morning, don’t wear flip-flops (like I did), and walk through the market sharing lots of smiles — you’ll get plenty back. End in the prepared food section and eat with the locals, using newspaper for a plate.
Visit a Library — Yes, a Library
Martin Murillo runs a free mobile library in Parque de Bolivar. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
You’ve heard of food carts that you need to try when traveling, but what about a book cart? You’ll find a library on wheels in the beautiful Parque de Bolivar. Martin Murillo will be pushing the cart, and he’s hard to miss in his white shirt covered in logos. He lends his books to locals and tourists for free, as a way to promote reading and literacy, and you can often find him reading stories in the park to whomever will listen. His cart and mission are sponsored by various companies, and when he’s not traveling the world spreading his literacy message, he’s entertaining famous guests to Colombia, such as former President Clinton. So take a break from sight-seeing, grab a book from Martin, a coffee from a street vendor, and find a seat on one of the many park benches to enjoy a chapter or two.
Escape to the Beach
A short boat trip from Cartagena will deposit you on the beach of the Rosario Islands, surrounded by turquoise water. You can lie on the sand sipping drinks, snorkel, kayak, play beach volleyball, or just make sand castles. I went for a day trip but you can also stay overnight on the islands — there are lots of options, ranging from budget to luxury.
Take a Walk on the Wild Side in Getsamani
The formerly seedy neighborhood of Getsamani is now vibrant with art, restaurants, and nightlife. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
If you want to get away from the tourist shops and more manicured side of Cartagena, then you’ll have to leave the old central city walls and take a walk. Head across the main street to Getsemani, a diverse neighborhood where locals still outnumber tourists. I walked around during the day taking in the smiles of locals, watching delivery men prepare for the coming night, and enjoying the eclectic street art. At night the neighborhood comes alive as the hip part of Cartagena with the best night clubs, live music, and restaurants.
Dine with the Fashionistas
Put on your hippest outfit and head to Tcherassi Hotel in the old town for a high-end Italian meal by Chef Daniel Castaño, a former Mario Batali acolyte. The hotel itself is a vision in white by fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi, and the food at Castaño’s Vera restaurant is about as pretty looking as the rest of the place.
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Drink Away the Day
Sunset over the old city wall in Cartagena is something not to be missed. To take part in this daily ritual head to the far corner of the old city wall and head up to the top to Café Del Mar. The drinks are pricey, so grab your sunset cocktail and then move on after the sun has disappeared for the day.
Drink the Night Away
The Chiva party bus is a fun, and alcohol-fueled, way to see the city at night. (Photo: Sherry Ott/Ottsworld)
Live music and all the rum you can drink. On a bus. That’s the Chiva tour. Cram onto a colorful bus packed with other party people, and spend the night indulging in an open bar, dancing to live musicians, and snacking on local treats as you tour around the city. Tickets include entry to a club afterward so that you can keep the party rocking all night.
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