Taking a Bite Out of New York With the Chef Who's Bringing the Cronut to Japan
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Dominique Ansel and Kosuke Yamashita at Katz’s Delicatessen (Dominique Ansel/Instagram)
Who: Kosuke Yamashita, manager of the first Tokyo outpost from pastry chef Dominique Ansel, creator of the cronut.
Where: First time in New York City.
Why did you take this trip? I’ve worked in hospitality my whole life and started off in restaurants and hotels. I was most recently at the Peninsula Hotel. And next will be my biggest position: the manager of Dominique Ansel Bakery in Tokyo, which is opening next year. Hospitality and service is my passion. And now, also pastries and desserts by chef Dominique. I remember reading and learning about the bakery in New York — this small shop that believed in creativity and innovation — and now that I am here in person I see all the people who came from around the world. Today it was so cold outside, and I was shocked that it is just as I read: a long line of people still!
Related: WATCH: Beyond the Cronut – Tasting New York Chef Dominique Ansel’s Latest Creation
All hail the legendary cronut. (Photo: Melanie Dunea)
Has it been a big culture shock for you? Everyone walks so fast here. It’s almost like a run! But I also love going around and trying out all the food in New York. My first pumpkin and pecan pie was this Thanksgiving.
While you’ve been here, have you used any guides? Do you have a favorite guide book? Yes, it is a Japanese guide called: Rurubu. It’s very famous in Japan, and Dominique Ansel Bakery is in there!
Tell me about your itinerary: I arrived just a few days before Thanksgiving and it was immediately busy. But I have a whole list of things to try. My first stop was Katz’s Delicatessen. I had my first affogato next door. I went to the Met and the MoMA. I also had my first Christmas tree here with the team. A black seed bagel, and I’m supposed to go a place called Papaya. I still have to wait in the cronut line one day though. Definitely before I leave.
Have you met anyone so far who has made an impression on you? I meet a lot of customers all day long, and quite a few from Japan. They are so excited about Tokyo, and I can see all the fans commenting on Instagram and Facebook and wishing me luck in Tokyo. One day at an event a customer walked up to me and said: “You’re Kosuke!” because she followed chef Dominique’s Instagram and saw my picture on there. She gave me a lot of her support for Japan and I was so touched.
Related: Move Over Paris and New York — Tokyo is Officially the Food Capital of the World
Kosuke’s first bagel-and-lox sandwich (Dominique Ansel/Instagram)
What have you learned being in New York? It’s very fast paced here. Everyone is very sharp and there’s a lot to look after: ways to manage the line, ways to manage the inventory, quality control for pastries, training for staff, packaging, events, and more. A hundred things moving at once. But I am getting better at it. In Tokyo, it will be an even bigger store and we are expecting twice as many people. I have a lot of work ahead. It won’t be easier. But we can do it!
What are the most surprising food revelations in New York so far? I’ve discovered I’m not a big fans of beans. I had a burrito at Cafe Habana and it was not for me. The Cuban sandwich there, though, was oishiii!
What’s next? Well, my position is just beginning. Next year in Tokyo when the store opens, I will know more. But it is important to work for something you believe in. And to work very hard at it every day.
Related: I Spent My 40th Birthday Alone in Japan and it Totally Rocked
Kosuke in Times Square (Dominique Ansel/Instagram)
Where should Kosuke go while he is visiting New York? Leave a comment below and we’ll make sure he gets it, or check out his adventures on Instagram.
WATCH: What to Eat When You Can’t Get a Cronut
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