Street Art Smackdown: Wynwood Walls in Miami vs. Beco do Batman in São Paulo
(Photos: Wally Gobetz/Flickr; Jack Two/Flickr)
Each week, Yahoo Travel pits rival destinations against each other to determine once and for all which place is the best. This week it’s Wynwood Walls in Miami vs. Beco do Batman in São Paulo, Brazil, in an art-world showdown.
The Case for Wynwood Walls by Cristina Gibson
Just over the bridge from South Beach is the Wynwood Walls, an open-air outdoor gallery and mecca for street art dreamed up by developer and visionary Tony Goldman in Oct. 2009. Inspired the graffiti that already was on abandoned warehouses, empty factories, and crumbling buildings in the manufacturing district along NW 2nd Avenue between 26th and 25th Streets, Goldman and famed curator Jeffrey Deitch tapped more than 30 artists from around the world to transform the walls into life-sized canvases for their murals and creativity.
Related: In-Your-Face Graffiti Art Rules the Miami Art Scene
The whimsical Wynwood Walls first debuted in conjunction with Art Basel Miami, the annual art fair for the billionaires and glittery jet set, back in 2009, creating a neighborhood renaissance of sorts for Wynwood and an art scene everyone can enjoy, no matter their income bracket. It has expanded to a vibrant attraction for tourists and locals alike, year-round and far beyond Basel.
How to Get Around
A Vespa tour of Wynwood Walls (Photo: Roam There/Facebook)
You can take a cab or an Uber from South Beach or downtown Miami to reach Wynwood. Once you’re there, the Wynwood Walls area is walkable. You can also opt to travel via Vespa scooter from South Beach on a two-hour tour with Roam There.
Best Murals
Futura’s beautiful abstract murals are painted entirely with rollers. (Photo: Thomas Hawk/Flickr)
While the murals constantly change, famed street artist Shepard Fairey has been a staple of the Wynwood Walls since their debut. Best known for his Barack Obama “Hope” poster, he was originally drawn to the Walls with the promise they’d be well-maintained as well as accessible to all art lovers. His courtyard creation features a tribute to creator Goldman, who passed away in 2012, and people the Walls’ creator admired, including Andy Warhol, Martin Luther King Jr., and the Dalai Lama.
Ryan McGinness’s recognizable “33 Woman” mural. (Photo: Wally Gobetz/Flickr)
Japanese artist Aiko and her female friends have also been a part of the Walls from the beginning. Using hand-cut stencils made in her Brooklyn studio and with the help of her girlfriends from L.A. and Tokyo, she created her first masterpiece in 2009, which she then updated in 2013 as part of the Women on the Walls project. Women are also a central theme for artist Ryan McGinness, who’s “33 Women” mural uses Day-Glo paint on a black background to create a modern version of the classic nude.
At the main entrance to the Walls, check out Futura’s work, created entirely with paint rollers on extensions. He first got his start painting subway cars and divided his wall into individual sections as he worked before finding a way to tie it all together into one giant creation.
Tour Guide
BYO Bike and let Ryan the Wheelbarrow show you the best of the Wynwood Walls. (Photo: Wynwood Mural Tours)
Local artist Ryan the Wheelbarrow offers free guided tours by bike on Sunday afternoons. Just remember it’s BYOB: bring your own bike. If biking isn’t your thing or you prefer other days/times, you can also pay to book private, walking tours.
Galleries Nearby
The Fredric Snitzer Gallery (Photo: Fredric Snitzer Gallery/Facebook)
In Wynwood, there are more than 60 galleries between 36th Street and 20th Street, and the best time to go explore is during Art Walk. It’s held the second Saturday of each month from 6 to 10 p.m., where galleries and studios are open to the public, with live performances, free wine, food trucks, and lots of art lovers packing the streets between 2nd Avenue and 6th Avenue. Check out the cutting-edge Fredric Snitzer Gallery and the Dina Mitrani gallery for provocative photography.
Where to Eat and Drink
The Wynwood Kitchen features murals by famed artist Shepard Fairey. (Photo: Wynwood Kitchen & Bar/Facebook)
Wynwood Kitchen and Bar is a feast for your eyes and senses, as well as your stomach. The Latin American eatery, created by Tony Goldman’s daughter Jessica and her late father, features a floor-to-ceiling mural by Shepard Fairey in the bar and bright paintings throughout the dining room. Executive chef Miguel Aguilar serves up tapas and creative cocktails inspired by artists.
Related: Cheat Sheet: Miami
If you’re in the mood for mouthwatering pizza, head to Joey’s Italian Cafe, the first restaurant to open in the Arts District. The outdoor seating is a perfect place to people watch, enjoy a glass of wine, and sample some authentic Italian fare.
Where to Shop
The GO! Shop (Photo: The Go Shop/Facebook)
Pick up a souvenir from your visit at the GO! shop, which features works by the artists on the Walls, photo books, limited edition T-shirts, and more. It’s open Wednesday through Saturday.
What to Wear
Be sure to bring sunglasses and comfortable shoes — especially if you’re going on a biking tour! (Photo: Getty Images)
Miami is fashion-forward, so think casual yet chic for your Wynwood Walls visit: sundresses or shorts with collared shirts. You’ll be strolling outdoors for most of the day, so stylish sunglasses and comfortable shoes are also a must. And leave that winter coat at home! Miami is pretty warm yearround, but you may want a blazer or jacket for chilly nights. There can be unexpected thunderstorms, so pack your umbrella.
Don’t Miss
See gates adorned with art, like this piece by Gaia at the Wynwood Doors (Photo: Eldan Goldenberg/Flickr)
The Wynwood Doors, which are adjacent to the Walls. Opened in 2010, they feature 176 feet of painted roll-up storefront gates.
WATCH: Wynwood Walls Founder Honored Amid Art Basel Preps
••••••
The Case for Beco do Batman in São Paulo, Brazil by Laura Begley Bloom
The author in Beco do Batman (Photo: Laura Begley Bloom)
Located on a narrow alley in the funky-cool neighborhood of Vila Madalena, Brazil's Beco do Batman (Brazilian for “Batman’s Alley”) has become a must-see São Paulo destination and the nexus for an open-air graffiti scene that spreads throughout the district. Like Wynwood Walls, this alfresco “gallery” has walls covered in graffiti. But unlike Miami's newly created, made-for-tourists installation, this Brazilian spectacle has a more organic history that dates to the 80s, when a lone batman drawing appeared on an alley between Ruas Gonçalo Afonso and Medeiros Albuquerque. Art students from the local university were inspired and went to town, blanketing the walls in graffiti. These days, you’ll find amazing pieces around every corner in Vila Madalena, which has been described as the Brooklyn of São Paulo. Walkable and neighborly, it feels like a small village — a rarity in this otherwise frenetic and sprawling city.
How to Get Around
The art experience begins as soon as you get off the subway at the Estação Sumaré with these pieces by Alex Flemming. (Photo: Arte Fora do Museo/Flickr)
You can take the subway to Vila Madalena’s Sumaré station; the alley is a 20-minute stroll away. But the easiest way to get to Beco do Batman is via cab: it’s three miles from Avenida Paulista, the city’s main drag. Like Wynwood Walls, the hilly neighborhood is best explored by foot. Just a word of warning: it’s a good idea to be careful after dark, though this is one of the safer parts of São Paulo.
Best Murals
Works along Gonçalo Afonso street, aka Beco do Batman (Photo: Wally Gobetz/Flickr)
In Beco do Batman and the surrounding area, the works are mostly made by Brazilian artists, but you’ll also find examples of international street artists like Horfee, from Paris. These dazzling, colorful paintings cross artistic genres, bringing to mind everything from Cubism to psychedelia. And there are rules: whomever painted part of a wall owns that section, and no one else can draw on it without permission from the original artist.
Related: São Paulo City Guide
The murals done by late graffiti artist Niggaz are a must-see. (Photo: Wally Gobetz/Flickr)
The best walking tour of the area starts at the Vila Madalena subway. Along Madalena street you’ll find Brazilian artists like Chivitz, who specializes in hip-hop designs, and Minhau, known for her kitten-themed pieces. Next up, hit Beco do Batman, the hub of it all. Look for leading graffiti artist Niggaz, who tragically drowned a decade ago. At Belmiro Braga, there’s a basketball court lined in graffiti murals. Nearby is Beco do Aprendiz, an alley that use to be a drug hub and is now another colorful hot spot.
Tour Guide
One of the best ways to see the area is on a street art tour hosted by Flavia Liz Di Paolo, called an “urban legend” by Condé Nast Traveller U.K. She also hosts favela and children’s tours of São Paulo.
Galleries Nearby
A corner of the sprawling A7MA Gallery (Photo: A7MA Gallery)
The point of Vila Madalena is to soak in the street art, but there are some enclosed spaces worth checking out, too, including Galeria Choque Cultural (dedicated to graffiti art), A7MA Gallery (a few of the artists here also have work at Beco do Batman), and TagJuice, which doubles as a bar and gallery.
Where to Eat and Drink
Dining at Chou (Photo: Chou)
One of the most magical places in the neighborhood is the homey Chou, where owner Gabriela Barretto’s Mediterranean-inspired dishes are like works of art. A dramatic place to grab a bite is Pé de Manga, built around an enormous mango tree. (Don’t miss the Feijoada, served on Saturdays.)
Related: Armchair Traveler: 5 Must-Read Books that Define Brazil
This is also the land of coffee shops. Get a cup of artisanal coffee and a lesson from expert baristas on how to make the perfect brew at Coffee Lab. Or grab a drink at Empório Sagarana, which has a sprawling list of 600 cachaças and 150 craft beers.
Where to Shop
The Vila Madalena flagship of the Rio-based Farm (Photo: Laura Begley Bloom)
If you only have time for one shop in Vila Madalena, make it Farm, a Rio-based concept store that is covered in a living wall. The multi-level store has everything from art books to women’s clothing. We also love the antiques mecca, Retro 63, which specializes in the 50s to the 70s. You’ll find old cash machines, telephones, toys, and more. Another fun pit stop: Galeria Almadomar, which translates as “sea soul” and carries an Instagram-worthy collection of vintage surfboards.
What to Wear
Brazil has a style all its own (Photo: Anbê)
This is the land of Gisele Bundchen and the teeny-weeny bikini, so less is more. Need we say more? Channel the Brazilian vibe at the shop Anbê, which stocks lightweight looks for women and men. And if you really want to stand out, top off your outfit with a hat from e-holic, a local milliner.
Don’t Miss
The exterior of Choque (Photo: Galeria Choque Cultural)
For a quick introduction to the area’s street-art scene, head to Galeria Choque Cultural, a paean to everything graffiti with an ever-changing façade. The gallery also has affordable artwork for sale, if you want to take a piece of the neighborhood home with you.
WATCH: Sao Paulo’s Urban Art Museum with Anthony Bourdain
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