Smackdown: Glasgow vs. Edinburgh
Images: Thinkstock
Each week, Yahoo Travel pits rival cities against each other to determine once and for all which destination is the best. This week, our challengers are two Scotland destinations: Glasgow and Edinburgh.
With a nail biter of a referendum that nearly established an independent Scotland, the world just got a crash course in this small country’s enormous sense of national pride.
The outcome sated the 55 percent who voted no, but the nearly even divide reminded onlookers that although Scotland is united by borders, brogue, and a love of haggis, attitudes among its citizens are starkly different.
No two cities embody that psychological rift more than rivals Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Dr. Gary Kemp, who teaches philosophy at Glasgow’s eponymous university, sums it up this way:
“It’s a classic class divide. Some consider Edinburgh snooty and dull, preferring Glasgow’s friendly, creative edge. Others admire Edinburgh’s sophistication and consider Glasgow, well, a bit dirty and disheveled.”
Glasgow’s less polished than Edinburgh, and it’s proud of it (Photo: Thinkstock)
The case for Glasgow
Individualistic. Boisterous. Music-addicted. A city once rooted in mercantile industry (tobacco, textiles, shipbuilding) and a working-class ethos, Glasgow unsurprisingly voted 53.49 percent for independence.
Sure, Glasgow can be a bit rough around the edges. But at least it has edges. (You heard that right, Edinburgh!). And OK, it might have more than its fair share of drunken brawls, but Glasgow has something that can’t be manufactured: attitude.
It’s a proper city — not some quaint village with wailing bagpipes, twee tartan shops, and castles. Though its commercial heyday might be behind it, Glasgow embraces some overlooked perks in its own backyard: vast parks, extraordinary art, and world-class architecture.
Related: WATCH: How to Spend 36 Hours in Glasgow, Scotland
Glasgow also delivers the contemporary goods: fabulous shopping, the best touring bands, and a bevy of nightclubs.
But that doesn’t mean you sacrifice nice.
You won’t find a friendlier and more genuine set of people than the Glaswegians, who, at the end of the day, prefer to make some ruckus rather than simply make do.
Population: The largest and most densely populated city in Scotland, Glasgow is home to 596,000 residents.
Craig Ferguson (Photo: Getty Images)
Famous faces: Glasgow birthed two funny men — former late-night talk-show host and comedian Craig Ferguson and Billy Connolly, who started out as a welder in the dockyards on the River Clyde.
Glasgow also lays claim to two of the world’s sexiest stars: the rough and tumble Gerard Butler (P.S. I Love You) and charming James McAvoy (Atonement).
How to get around: Glasgow’s main transportation source is an iconic underground that consists of a circle. Taxis abound and are cheaper than in Edinburgh. There is also a wonderful system of trains to the western highlands and the west coast, including Oban, Mallaig, and the Kyle of Lochalsh.
Haute hotels: Just because Glasgow is working class doesn’t mean it has no class.
Hotel du Vin (Photo: Hotel du Vin/Facebook)
For luxe delivered with hipster whimsy, the 49-room Hotel du Vin combines five historic townhomes and lures the likes of George Clooney and Justin Timberlake.
Another five-star retreat: Blythswood Square, with a bespoke cocktail book and an elegant salon serving tea.
Where to try haggis: A national comfort food that inspires plenty of discomfort outside of Scotland, haggis is a mélange of minced sheep lungs, heart, and liver mixed with suet, oatmeal, and onions and cooked in the animal’s stomach.
But maybe a country whose main lunch staple is the hot dog shouldn’t talk?
Traditionally served with “neeps and tatties” (rutabaga and potatoes), one of Glasgow’s best — think haute haggis — is showcased at Stravaigin, using a four-decades-old family recipe with secret spices and a whipped-soft blend of vegetables.
Related: 10 Majestic Photos of the Kingdom of Scotland
Watering holes: The bohemian hub of the West End is where Glasgow shines, with top-rate pubs and clubs. Oran Mor has it all: lounge and whiskey bar, two restaurants, live music venue, nightclub and striking auditorium with a ceiling mural by Alasdair Gray.
The Three Judges (Photo: Courtesy of The Three Judges/Facebook)
Craving a range of beers? Three Judges has fantastic Scottish real ales and ciders (many displayed daily on their signature “ale board”).
With a leafy courtyard and three bars — the Big Pub, the Wee Pub, and the New Bar — Ubiquitous Chip is a one-stop shop. On tap: 150 whiskeys (tutored tastings available) and a massive beer list matched with the two menus — fine dining and brasserie (try the wild Kintyre rabbit).
The arts: OK, Edinburgh has the Castle and Royal Palace. But it also has that ghastly Parliament Building (it’s hard to say which is more brazen — the waste of £414 million or stuffing the Debating Chamber with steel roof rods).
Glasgow has scores of fine Georgian and Victorian buildings, the neoclassical monuments of Alexander “Greek” Thomson, and designs by the nonpareil Arts and Crafts architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
Glasgow School of Art entrance (Photo: Charlie Rapple/Flickr)
Between the Glasgow School of Art (though tragically much of the interior burned this year!) and the Willow Tearooms, Mackintosh’s art nouveau natural ornamental curves soften Glasgow’s urban landscape.
Merchant City, an 18th-century development just east of George Square, contains loads of beautifully restored buildings (Hutcheson’s Hall, Italian Centre, and the Trades Hall), as well as new cafés, specialty shops, and eateries.
Yes, Edinburgh has its almighty festival — but Glasgow has music. Dubbed a UNESCO City of Music, Glasgow runs 130-plus live music events weekly.
For the classically minded, Glasgow has the Royal Scottish National Orchestra, the Scottish Opera, and the Scottish Ballet. And the halls that showcase the performances — Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, the Theatre Royal, and the City Halls (state of the art for live radio concerts) — are destinations themselves.
King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (Photo: King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut/Facebook)
Offbeat is more Glasgow’s style. The Old Fruitmarket is a big (but still intimate) venue for folk, pop, jazz, and blues. And great gigs play the legendary King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut as well as the Barrowland Ballroom, the Garage, and Carling Academy. Best in show for live entertainment is the new SSE Hydro, opened in 2013.
The case for Edinburgh
Calton Hill in Edinburgh. (Photo: Thinkstock)
The country’s capital, Edinburgh is Scotland’s star — brilliant and refined (and yes, Edinburghers know, coming from a Glaswegian, that’s synonymous for “uptight”).
But unlike Glasgow, where garbage is tossed into the street with a kind of panache, Edinburgh prefers its streets clean, as precious as that might sound to some. Edinburgh prides itself on chic urban living — worlds apart from habitually wardrobe-challenged, gritty Glasgow.
With its castle atop an extinct volcano and beautiful Georgian New Town, Edinburgh was — in the day — all about history, not industry. But with a new Parliament building, an exploding tourism industry, and a festival that keeps topping the charts, the city has taken up Glasgow’s former financial prowess, just in different trades.
Related: 10 Reasons to Love the Scottish Highlands
A resounding 61.1 percent of Edinburgh voted against independence. Some might say that, given its newfound wealth and ties to England, Edinburghers toe the party line. But there is no denying that the city is the seat of power and politics in Scotland.
Itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and hosting Europe’s leading arts festival, Edinburgh saw a whopping 1.3 million overseas visitors in 2013. Glasgow? It was the setting for the apocalyptic film “World War Z.”
And while Glaswegians throw back high-octane drinks and a parade of furiously fried foods, Edinburgh is sipping creative cocktails, dining at Michelin-starred restaurants, and embracing the outdoors.
Maybe that’s why Edinburgh beats Glasgow in life expectancy.
Population: With 489,000 people, Edinburgh is the second most populous city in Scotland, with almost 20 percent in their 20s.
Sean Connery (Photo: Getty Images)
Famous faces: Two words: Sean Connery. But Edinburgh doesn’t produce just Hollywood faces — it churns out the writers whose work creates new ones. Fans of Sherlock Holmes (and Robert Downey Jr. and Jeremy Brett) can thank Edinburgh for the series creator, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
Another Edinburgh-born auteur: Robert Louis Stevenson, creator of “Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.” Culture and politics are in Edinburgh’s DNA, producing poet Robert Burns, philosopher David Hume, and even Britain’s most recognized former prime minister, Tony Blair.
Getting around: Edinburgh is a compact city, and traveling by foot is easy. Ditto for bicycles. Its strong suit: the local bus network, which covers most of the city. (Grab a Lothian Buses day ticket for unlimited daily travel.) A single line tram connects downtown to the airport.
Haute hotels: Edinburgh does hospitality right, from five-star hostels to the swankiest boudoir-style abodes.
Just off the Royal Mile, ladies traveling alone can breathe easy at Smart City Hostel, with their very own floor and en-suite bathrooms.
The Tigerlily (Photo: The Tigerlily/Facebook)
Want decadence? The Tigerlily lures with lush fabrics, beaded curtains, and glitter balls.
And if you’re seeking a Manhattan vibe, the loft-style Hudson Hotel features exposed brick and walnut paneling.
Where to try haggis: Arcade serves the local favorite in Prince Charles style (with Drambuie sauce) or Robert Burn’s classic, as well as three Whiskey Tours (flights) — basic, fancy, luxury.
For haggis and Cumberland sausage hash with whiskey sauce and bacon and a cool, quirky vibe, head upstairs (where there’s more ambiance) at The Dogs on Hanover Street.
Best watering holes: Craving whiskey but also choice? Whiski Rooms serves a 300-strong menu, from blended to the smoothest single malt.
The Canny Man’s (Photo: The Canny Man’s/Facebook)
An Edinburgh institution, Canny Man’s serves a sundry of whiskeys amid a curio shop décor chock-full of chandeliers, clocks, and plaids a plenty.
In the Lochrin Basin, along the Union canal, Cargo Bar is a sleek modern industrial space — exposed concrete, steel, glass — warmed up by timber touches and LED lighting. Grab a pint in the beer garden overlooking the water.
The arts: It’s hard to deny Edinburgh’s focal point: Edinburgh Castle. To avoid the hordes, get there right at 9:30 a.m. to see the Scottish Crown Jewels. Stroll along the Royal Mile for the souvenir shops and plenty of pubs, and pop into the Museum of Childhood, where dollhouses, bikes, and tin soldiers form a slightly creepy, but also warmly nostalgic, collection.
Usher Hall (Photo: Usher Hall/Facebook)
This year, the Beaux Arts Usher Hall, funded by whiskey mogul Andrew Usher, turned 100. The grand concert hall — with to-die-for acoustics — has hosted everyone from Johnny Cash to the Rolling Stones. Its main claim to fame: Since 1947, it has been the main venue for the Edinburgh International Festival in August.
Fringe Festival (Photo: Edinburgh Festival Fringe/Facebook)
With knights in full armor spontaneously crossing the street on horseback, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe (three weeks in August) is when Edinburgh transforms into a kind of Burning Man of the performing arts, sans the sand.
Theater, comedy, dance, music, circus, cabaret, etc., explode in every nook and cranny of the city. Want perspective? This year included 49,497 performances of 3,193 shows in 299 venues, making it the largest arts festival in the world.
Take that, Glasgow.
Travel, food, and spa writer Nicole Alper has been penning articles about her escapades for over 15 years. One of her first trips abroad landed her in Edinburgh; she has made Scotland one of her top destinations ever since. Alper’s work has appeared in such publications as Travel + Leisure, New York magazine, Chicago Sun-Times, Brides, Celebrated Living, More, Essence, and Conde Nast Traveler.
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