The Ultimate 10-Day Trip Through Morocco
A camel caravan in Morocco. (Photo: Thinkstock)
We all have a list, whether mental or scribbled away in a Moleskin, of exotic destinations we must visit—when we have the cash, the vacation time, the appropriate companion, or the perfect mix of all three.
The top of my own list looks like this: India, Japan, Morocco. And this year, I had time off in July, so I decided to finally check Morocco off the list (India in July sounded, um, hot).
The North African country promised complete cultural immersion, plus piled-high chicken-thigh tagines, labyrinthine architecture, and, most importantly for this new home-owner: hand-knotted rugs. (Yes, I’ve known friends to make trips to Marrakech specifically to scoop up a few one-of-a-kind floor coverings.) And so my friend and I set about planning a 10 day, 9-night vacation through the country that would keep us in near constant motion on guided tours of medieval universities and nostril-livening markets. We took winding 8-hour car rides through the High and Middle Atlas mountains; loping camel rides at 4am to watch the sunrise over the Sahara dunes; and haggled contently with shop owners over hand-painted ceramics and sun-tanned leather bags. We did it all.
An open-air market in Marrakech. (Photo: Thinkstock)
Before you go:
Having someone help plan transportation timing from city to city (hours apart by car), and recommend restaurants was clutch. For planning, Heritage Tours Private Travel was the only name recommended to me. They know the country through and through, and can fashion an itinerary based on your interests and threshold for, say, walking (there will be a lot), or luxury.
Related: Go Inside Morocco’s Hidden Blue City
If you’re the DIY type, go for it! Just don’t drink the water or eat uncooked produce, and if you do, get thee to the nearest Moroccan pharmacy to buy a safe and effective OTC antibiotic called Ercefuryl 200 (Nifuroxazide). It cleared up my nasty bout of….traveler’s issues in less than 24 hours.
Tangier
The view from the balcony of La Tangerina in Tangier. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
We started our trip in Tangier because, if I’m being honest, Ryanair flights from Madrid (where we connected from the US) to Tangier were 32 euros, but also because we were interested in seeing the old haunts of literary greats such as Paul Bowles and William Burrows, who famously spent time in the seamy, vibrant trade city in the mid 20th century.
Stay
La Tangerina — A nearly perfect 10-room guest house, moderately priced (from $55), and centrally located. On a clear day, you can see the Spanish coast from the balcony.
Must see
The Grand Socco and Petit Socco, the two main squares in the medina (old city) of Tangier. Grab a mint tea at one of the cafés and pretend you’re a novelist.
Fez
The fountain and gardens inside Palais Amani in Fez. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
The former capital of Morocco (until the 1925), Fez is now known as the destination for crafts and artisinal design. It’s also a step (or ten) back in time—you’ll see merchants in djellabas pulling mules through the medieval city streets, chatting away on iPhones. Come here for the pottery, the tanneries, and the prime examples of Moorish architecture.
Stay
Palais Amani a meticulously restored riad in the old city with a large terrace to take your breakfast on, and peaceful gardens in which to spend an hour or two with a book. From $170/night, including breakfast.
Must see
A artisan pottter working at Art Naji Pottery in Fez. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
Bou Inania Madrasa, the Koranic university, built in 1351, is a wonder of Islamic artistic and religious expression. There you’ll find Fondouk el-Nejjarine, the Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts; and a Art Naji Pottery Factory, where you can watch artists spinning pots, making tiles, and glazing tagines and dishware in the city’s signature greenish-blue (which, of course, are for sale, and can be expertly wrapped for transport). Art nerds, this place is for you.
Eat
Fez does not offer the bountiful culinary options of Marrakech, but there are two exceptional restaurants that I’d visit again. Restaurant Numero 7 boasts a revolving cast of chefs-in-residence (ours were from Canada, before that, France), and, by all reports, the fixed, Moroccan-influenced menu is always stellar. The other spot, Dar Roumana, is run by a warm French chef and offers polished takes on kebab, tagine, and other Moroccan standbys in a romantic, cozy room.
The Desert
The impressive site of Merzouga Luxury Desert Camps (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
Sure, it’s a seven-hour drive south from Fez, but spending a night at the Merzouga Luxury Desert Camps, a cluster of sleekly outfitted tents, was by far the highlight of my trip. Have you ever watched the sun set over ruby red sand mountains? Or taken a meditative camel ride at 4 a.m. to watch it rise again from a perch high above the landscape? If not, do this. (Heritage Tours is also putting the finishing touches on its own Saharan encampment—or englampment?—set to open in October.) Tents sleep anywhere from two to four people, and cost approximately $600/night, including dinner, breakfast, 4x4 transfers, and a camel ride.
One Night Of Extreme Luxury
I learned the hard way: traveling the span of Morocco does not make for a relaxing vacation—exciting, no doubt, but this is not a piña colada-in-your-hand holiday. This is trekking and haggling and smelling and eating and seeing. Sensory overload. Or at least that’s what I was experiencing by day five, which is why I made the decision to splurge on one night at the insane Dar Ahlam —literally, house of dreams—a restored Kasbah in the lush oasis of Skoura. What’s that you hear? Absolutely nothing, just complete tranquility. And the food is exceptional. You’re served each meal in a different, mesmerizing location. For instance, one night we had dinner in an olive grove and our final lunch, resting on bamboo mats with our feet dangling in a babbling brook, no joke. From $780, all inclusive.
Marrakech
The carpet stalls in the bustling souks of Marrakech. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
We spent four nights in Marrakech, and I desperately wanted to stay several more. Exploring the ancient medina—the classic architectural landmarks, the souks, the bustling street life, spices, crafts, speeding mopeds, the buzzing Jamaa el-Fna—takes days. You only see as much as your legs and brain can take—every turn in the red-walled city leads you, literally, someplace entirely new. I recommend aligning yourself with a local—it’s easy to get lost here without a guide. Much has been written about what to see, do, eat in this vibrant city, so I’ll assume you’ll look to the guide books for architecture tours. Instead, here are a few of my personal favorites.
Stay
There are endless options in the medina and outside, from super cheap hostels to incredibly luxurious resorts. We chose something in the middle—Riad Mena, an intimate design-minded riad in the old city run by a Frenchwoman with phenomenal taste in art and carpets, Philomena Schurer Merckoll. The crowd is international and stylish (the fashion photographer Pamela Hanson recently stayed here), and the service is low-key and lovely. The rooms, each uniquely decorated, are airy and romantic. From $150 a night
Must see
The diverse succulents in the Jardin Marjorelle in Marrakech. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
Jardin Majorelle, is also known as the YSL Gardens because the late designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé, restored the grounds in 1980 and lived there part-time. The original name, however, is after the former estate of French painter Jacques Majorelle. Come here for the catcti and succulent gardens, and to see Saint Laurent’s grave. Bonus: the Berber Museum on the property has one of the best museum gift shops we’ve ever encountered, with vintage gelatin prints of Berber women and 1920s oil paintings that are better than any postcard or note pad.
Related: My Ridealong in a 9-Day All-Women’s Extreme Truck Race in the Moroccan Desert
La Porte D’Or is an antique carpet purveyor who has supplied goods to Nicole Kidman, Tom Cruise, Paul McCartney, and Whoopi Goldberg —all who have photos on the wall. The shop has piles and piles of high-quality High and Middle Atlas textiles to peruse. Say “yes” to a cup of fresh mint tea (“Moroccan whiskey,” as its called by the locals) and enjoy the process of unfurling textiles to find the perfect one, or ones. For less expensive pieces, try the vendors in the souks, who sell newly made rugs in traditional patterns and even neon hues.
The simple-chic vibe at Terrasse des Epices in Marrakech. (Photo: Nick Axelrod)
Terrasse Des Epices is a delicious, relaxed café serving tagines, salads, and kebab in the souks, situated atop a complex of stylish shops, like Marrakeshi Life (unisex cotton designs), which are worth checking out for unusual gifts and clothes. For a similar vibe at night, try the always-packed Nomad. Experiment with the non-traditional dishes—you’ve had enough couscous and stewed chicken at this point—such as sardine tarts and lamb burgers with harissa mayo.
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