Japan’s Samurai City Is Easier to Reach Now... Here's What to Do There
Spring blooms at Kenrokuen Garden. (Photo: Kanazawa City)
By Renny Widojo
Dubbed “Little Kyoto,” the Sea of Japan-sitting city of Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, triumphs marvelously in the arts world. It’s also famous for the freshness of its seafood and, true to its name — which literally means “marsh of gold” — it’s the biggest producer of gold leaf in the country.
Lying more than 200 miles northwest of Tokyo, Kanazawa has officially become the last stop on the country’s newly extended bullet train network, the speedy Hokuriku Shinkansen line.
As of March, it’s only a 2½-hour uninterrupted ride away.
So grab a manga and board this new express way to one of Japan’s most well-preserved samurai cities.
Here are 10 must-visit spots worth the ticket.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen train. (Photo: The Asahi Shimbun via Getty Images)
Kenroku-en Garden
Originally built as Kanazawa Castle’s outer garden, Kenroku-en is one of three Great Gardens of Japan and where the famous Kotoji Toro lantern and Japan’s oldest natural fountain are located. (1-1 Marunochi)
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D.T. Suzuki Museum
Designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi, who’s best-known for the revamp of New York’s MoMA, this museum is a remarkably humbling tribute to the life and teachings of Daisetz Suzuki, a prominent Buddhist philosopher who introduced Zen to the West. You’re guided down a meditative path as soon as you enter the museum — linger inside a four-walled (each with an open door) concrete gazebo surrounded by still water just before the exit and before you leave, notice how all that greenery peeking above the walls completes a picture-perfect frame.
21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Outside the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. (Photo: Kanazawa City)
This sun-drenched, only-a-decade-old museum features modern contemporary art, including performance art, installations and film, by a variety of local and international artists.
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Meboso Feather Craft Gallery
Owned by a 19th-generation member of a fly-fishing samurai family, the feather gallery offers a daily workshop (open all year round at 6:30 p.m., closed on Tuesdays, RSVP required; 076-231-6371) where you can have a hands-on experience making fly-fishing bait with feathers of different shapes and colors. The gallery is located at the original Meboso family home, just behind the main shop. A Japanese-speaking guide is crucial here given that Mr. Meboso loves to tell you the tale of his family’s blade-wielding-turned-fly-fishing history in great detail. Please keep an open mind when he gives you suggestions on how to better your handcrafted feather art — or when he just corrects it himself. He’s the expert! (11-35 Yasue-cho)
Shamisen no Fukushima
Get your hands on the traditional Japanese three-stringed musical instrument, best known for being beautifully strummed by geishas and at kabuki performances. Owner Masahide Okabe is a fourth-generation shamisen maker who’s more than happy to tell you — at great length — about the process of constructing a shamisen.
Omi-cho Market
Explore 170 shops of various land and sea products like locally produced organic sea salt, seasonal seafood and vegetables as well as various home products and local merchandise like cutlery and kimonos. It’s a great way to learn about the fascinating culture of the people of Kanazawa. (50 Kamiomi-cho)
Fresh offerings at Omi-cho Market. (Photo: Kanazawa City)
Kaiten Sushi Ohkura
Located inside the Omi-cho Market, this cozy, authentic lunch spot has a revolving sushi counter. Grab the passing plates in front of you or order on your own in Japanese! Three useful words/phrases are sumimasen (excuse me), onegai shimasu (please) and arigato gozaimasu (thank you). (38 Shimotsutsumi-cho)
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Panoramic view of Kanazawa.
Ageha
A mom-and-pop restaurant with unbelievably fresh fish and reasonable prices serves up dishes from 1,000 yen (about $10). (1-1-28 Hirosaka, Kakinokibatake)
Chayu
Try the unconventional ice cream flavors — like kabocha pumpkin, yuzu, miso and soy sauce — sandwiched between two bamboo charcoal pancakes, then come back for seconds … or thirds … or elevenths. (1-7-8 Higashiyama)
Baraya
Trust owner and local boy Yoshiyuki Matsuda’s booze expertise at this café and you’ll be guaranteed a long, happy visit, And if you’re lucky, he will cook and serve up his infamous takoyaki (octopus fried balls) after midnight — they’re dubbed “Samurai Balls” as a tribute to his hometown. (6-4 Kiguramachi)
Tips: A bilingual guide is highly recommended. The Art of Travel specializes in creative experiences and consists of art-savvy guides who are well-networked with both local and international artists, galleries and museums.
Wear comfortable shoes (and sunscreen!) since you can do much of your sightseeing within a walkable, 1½-mile radius of Kanazawa Castle.
Getting there: Japan Rail Pass holders may board the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kanazawa at any scheduled time. Travel time is 2 hours and 28 minutes, and you can reserve a seat in advance for free.
Stay: The Hotel Nikko Kanazawa is located conveniently across from the train station. (From 9,600 yen, about $80)
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