I Biked and Boozed Across Southern Italy
Basilicata by bicycle is the best way to take in a sunset. (Photo: ferulaviaggi.it)
By Stephanie Jackenthal
As the train doors opened in Trani, a bustling Italian seaport on the Adriatic Sea known as “the pearl of Puglia,” fresh salty sea air filled my lungs. Michele Cappiello, owner of Bike Basilicata, greeted me with a warm smile. I followed him to a small shop nearby, where I changed into Pearl Izumi cycling togs, picked up a provided Scott road bike and maps and began a three-day cycling trip across Puglia and Basilicata in south Italy, a.k.a the heel of “the boot.”
I had spent the prior week in Sicily, exploring its wineries, restaurants and ancient archaeological sites. It was early May, prime cycling time in southern Italy and as a long-time cyclist, I couldn’t leave the region without exploring it on two wheels. I’m not alone. According to a 2014 Adventure Cycling Association survey, the popularity of bike tourism in both the U.S. and globally is surging — prompting touring companies to increase their destination offerings and trip length options.
Related: 7 Reasons to Visit Mexico City’s Hippest Hood
But back to Puglia. Under cobalt skies with puffy clouds I started my 60-mile ride to the historic town of Venosa. Since I only had three days, Michele customized my trip, combing two typical 30-mile days into one day’s ride. His driver Paco Francesco Cosentino transported my luggage daily.
I rolled over bumpy cobblestone streets paralleling the glistening sapphire sea and zipped past stylish, sun glass-clad tourists chatting at cafés and strolling sidewalks. Trani seemed like Miami with a European twist.
With the wind at my back on the outskirts of town, my legs settled into familiar rhythmic circular pedaling. For the first time that day, I felt calm and recharged. Liveliness melded into quietness as I pedaled past round stone structures resembling rocky igloos, flourishing farms and quaint homes along the fertile landscape.
Related: This Caribbean Cruise Was Our Best Family Vacation Ever
Upon reaching Adria, a bustling market town celebrated for its wine, almonds and olive oil, I took a brief detour to see Castel del Monte. The towering octagonal fortress with 16 trapezoid-shaped halls was built in 1240 by Emperor Frederick II — and designated a UNESCO site in 1996.
Later, I arrived in the hilltop village of Minervino Murge, often called the “balcony over Puglia,” for its stunning panoramic views. The town’s stone castles and cathedrals — notably Cattedrale dell’Assunta and Palazzo Vescovile — date back the Norman period, and along with its Bell Tower are must sees.
After a long day’s journey, I reached the entrance to Venosa, birthplace of classical poet Horace (65-8 B.C.). The Castle of Venosa, an Aragonese castle, built in 1470 by Pirro del Balzo Orsini, stood high above other buildings. Home to architectural remnants dating back to Roman and Paleolithic times, the town attracts history buffs — and thrills fun-seekers who love the Water Park of Venosa.
Slogging up the final hill, I was relived to reach Hotel Orazio, a charming family-owned Victorian bed-and-breakfast. I craved a much-needed shower and glass of Aglianico, the local wine, not necessarily in that order. At supper in the mahogany dining room, I gobbled creamy fava bean puree with sautéed wild mushrooms and sipped a spicy cherry and black currant-driven Aglianico Del Vulture.
The next morning, a stiff breeze rustled treetops and the sun lurked behind hazy skies, as I set off for another 60-mile day. Outside town, I met a local cyclist riding a gorgeous Italian-made bicycle. A broad man in his mid-50s, “Gino” didn’t speak much English and I don’t speak much Italian.
We rode together through the bucolic rolling countryside, chatting in “Italish” and exchanging nods. In Genzano di Lucania, we said, “Ciao!” He headed home. I bought bananas and petite pears at the farm stand then rolled through the sleepy town, past quaint cafés dispensing inky black espresso and serving flaky pastry.
The landscape shape-shifted into sprawling cornfields, farms and a few vineyards as the bright afternoon sun warmed the nape of my neck. Spools of hay scattered fields. Wafts of manure lingered in the air and an occasional flying insect bounced off my helmet. It was peaceful and remote. Only a handful of cars and two tractors passed me during the 13 mile stretch.
Turning onto a narrow steep road, I spotted Agriturismo Bufalara, a 544-acre eco-lodge and working farm. Sweaty and famished upon arrival, co-owner Hilde Leone welcomed me with a trio of furry dogs. “You must be hungry,” she said, showing me to a charming duplex cottage — one of four available for rent.
Related: 6 Must-See Destinations for the Watch-Obsessed
I sunk into the wooden chaise lounge outside my bungalow, savoring the dreamy 180-degree mountains and valley view. Twenty minutes later, Hilde, a tall 30-something brunette, returned carrying a steaming bowl of wild mushroom and tomato risotto and water pitcher of Alglianico-Primitivo wine — made by her husband. Both were heavenly.
Later, I met Hilde and her mother Edda in the spacious kitchen for a cooking class. The blue tile counter was covered with a colorful bounty of vibrant wild asparagus, purple eggplant, glistening green zucchini and delightfully sweet tiny cherry tomatoes that popped with a flavor explosion.
I learned to make fava bean puree, “only” use the soft yellow part of an artichoke and “after grilling zucchini,” then drizzle with olive oil and salt.
The following morning, 18 mile into my 60 mile ride, I met a friendly local professional mountain biker “Paolo.” We peddled together while swapping cycling stories quickly became Facebook friends.
The country quietness melded into suburbia as I neared Matera, a UNESCO site known for its labyrinth of ancient cave dwellings and endless stairs.
Outside town, I stopped at Tenuta Parco dei Monaci to meet owners Rosa and Matteo for a tour of their contemporary winery and a tasting.
The bright, crisp 100 percent Grillo was refreshing, the Primitivo Rose’ packed savory, spicy wild strawberry notes, while, the satiny Aglianico fewtured expressive berry flavors.
In Matera, I stayed at Hotel Belvedere, which is built into a cave like many of the area’s hotels, homes and restaurants, and overlooks the Sassi di Matera (stones of Matera). Taking a stroll, I descended steep stone staircases into the old town — a spectacular web of muted grey stone buildings stacked on top of each other. Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in history dating back to the Palaeolithic period with Neolithic caves that housed folks over 7,000 years ago.
Weaving through tight, walled cobblestone streets, I arrived at Osteria L’Arco for dinner.
With tables tucked into etched cove alcoves, it feels like dining in a wine cave. Michele joined me for a glass of wine to toast my two-wheeled jour
Let Yahoo Travel inspire you every day. Hang out with us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest.
Check out our original adventure travel series A Broad Abroad.
