New Orleans Off the Beaten Path: The Stuff That Tourists Always Miss

Traditional New Orleans French Quarter — an area I spent little time in! (Photo: Sherry Ott)

By Sherry Ott / Ott’s World

It’s true — I did everything wrong during my 48 hours in New Orleans.

I didn’t go to the Garden District, I didn’t ride a street car, I didn’t eat a praline, and I even did the unthinkable — I ate Turkish food one night. I was causing trouble in New Orleans bucking the normal tourist spots and trying to find something different, yet still experience that New Orleans flare and culture.

One of my favorite things to do was simply wander the streets. I am always pleasantly surprised at people’s hospitality in the Southern U.S., always greeting you when you walk by, smiling, and calling you ma’am. It’s such a different speed in the South, and I have to remind myself to operate differently too, as if I were in another country.

And according to my cemetery guide Ernie, I was in another country. While on a cemetery tour I asked him what I thought to be a straightforward question about why the slaves were treated differently in New Orleans as compared to the rest of the Southern U.S. He quickly and forcefully answered, “New Orleans is not the South. It’s a Caribbean country surrounded by the Southern U.S.”

A little voodoo in New Orleans brought from the Caribbean. (Photo: Sherry Ott)

Okay, I stand corrected. My grade-school geography teacher wasn’t going to like Ernie’s answer, but as I spent the next two days talking to people about history of, and present-day, New Orleans, I have to admit, I think Ernie wasn’t too far off with that statement. New Orleans is definitely different from other cities I’ve been to in the South; it has a reckless abandon wrapped up and delivered in southern hospitality.

Calling New Orleans the Southern U.S. wasn’t the only thing I did wrong while I was there.

Related: How Not to Get Arrested at Mardi Gras

Biking Instead of a Riding Street Car

Instead of riding one of the famous streetcars, I decided to bike around New Orleans and get out of the French Quarter to places that are less touristed, with the help of Free Wheelin’ Bike Tours. We rode around places that I never would have gotten to on my own and learned about the history of the areas and how all of the neighborhoods intermixed. Our guide was full of information he dispersed while on the bike yelling back at us, however I was most enthralled with simply riding slowly on our cruisers and checking out the amazing architecture and ornate houses that are so distinctly New Orleans.

Check out our rides…cruisin’ bikes — white-wall tires and all! (Photo: Sherry Ott)

We rode out of the French Quarter, and into Marigny and the Bywater areas where we stopped and walked down Rosalie Alley — the home to a voodoo temple and some interesting artwork.

Rosalie Alley, home of a voodoo priestess. (Photo: Sherry Ott)

Related: Quirky Colorado: A Weekend Getaway Guide to Offbeat Denver

Esplanade and City Park Instead of the Garden District

I spent more time in New Orleans City Park than in the Garden District. (Photo: Sherry Ott)

I never even made it to the famed Garden District. Instead I explored the original Garden District on Esplanade Avenue, via bike. The Avenue was an important 19th-century portage route of trade between the Bayou, which linked to Lake Pontchartrain, and the River. Esplanade Ave was the Creole model for the Americans when they started to develop St. Charles Avenue in the Garden District. Today Esplanade Ave is lined with old mansions, big arching trees, a few restaurants, and a diversity of cultures. Esplanade Ave dumps right into the large and lovely New Orleans City Park. The park was a huge surprise to me: It was home to a sculpture garden, 400-year-old oak trees, the New Orleans Museum of Art, and countless running/biking/walking trails. The park is said to be twice the size of New York’s Central Park.

Frenchmen Street Instead of Bourbon Street

Skip crowded Bourbon Street and listen to the local late-night music on Frenchmen Street. (Video: Global Travelers)

When I ducked into a vintage dress shop during a rain storm, I struck up a conversation with the saleswoman and she had a wealth of local tips for me — but the main one was to go to Frenchmen Street if I wanted to hear good, live music. I quickly walked through the rowdy Bourbon Street where I was propositioned to show ‘skin’ for beads (ummm…sorry, but three plastic bead necklaces is not nearly enough for that — three martinis maybe.), and I headed to Frenchmen Street. As I arrived I heard a horn commotion and saw a large crowd gathering on a corner. I pushed my way through to see about eight guys with horns jamming away while others danced in the streets. Now this was New Orleans.

I went on to all of the bars on Frenchmen Street over the course of two nights and was in love with the vibe. The music was great, dancing was allowed (it’s not allowed in many places on Bourbon Street), and the drinks were about $2 cheaper than on Bourbon. There was a big swing-dancing festival in town so I was able to watch some great dancing too! This is where (more) locals go to hang out and listen to music, yet I’m sure as the popularity grows, the locals will find other spots to do their thing. But until then, this is a must if you love music and dancing.

Oysters at Felix’s Instead of Acme

Bring on the oysters! (Photo: Sherry Ott)

I hate lines. Somewhere in my forties I have become my dad, the person who refuses to wait in lines. So when I walked up to ‘famous’ Acme Oyster House and there was a huge line out the door, I looked across the street for another option. When I saw a sign for Oysters at Felix’s Restaurant, I headed over. I prefer them raw, so this is normally something a restaurant can’t really screw up, and Felix’s didn’t. I sat at the bar and watched the waitress mix me up a spicy horseradish-ketchup sauce concoction. I love oysters, especially when you can get a dozen for $13.

Beignets at Night Instead of in the Morning

I couldn’t come to New Orleans without having beignets. Most people head to Café Du Mond for their beignets and chicory coffee in the morning, but once again I didn’t want to stand in a line. So when I was walking back from Frenchmen Street at 1:30 a.m., I was surprised and delighted to find Café Du Mond open! There was no wait — and I was sitting eating my beignets within three minutes of walking into the café!

Related: 50 Best Dive Bars in the U.S.

Coop’s Instead of Emeril’s

Most visitors splurge on high-end restaurants like Emeril’s NOLA, but I did it all wrong and went to Coop’s Place, a little dive bar recommended by a local for its smoked duck quesadillas and rabbit sausage jambalaya. I made friends at the bar and had extra money left over for beignets!

I also really did go to a Turkish restaurant one night — what can I say, shawarma sounded good to me! But don’t fear, I did eat the Creole classics too, like red beans and rice, bread pudding in rum butter sauce, and grilled oysters.

Bread pudding from Oliviers with rum butter sauce. (Photo: Sherry Ott)

Even though I didn’t hit the main sites or famous restaurants, I still had a wonderful 48 hours in New Orleans. Sometimes doing everything wrong makes for just the right kind of vacation.

WATCH: Hero: This Hotel Manager Saved 300 People During Katrina

Let Yahoo Travel inspire you every day. Hang out with us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest.