Hidden Spas, Castles, and Cozy Pubs — Edinburgh is Full of Surprises

Ah, Thursday night — the only truly social night of the week. It’s the night when babysitters are booked, friends convene, and drinks are imbibed. There are no family obligations to fulfill, no amateurish weekend crowds to elbow through — and the possibilities are endless. The night starts after work and ends whenever you want. In any city. All over the world.

Edinburgh at dusk. (Photo: Thinkstock)

Edinburgh is full of surprises. There are hidden spas with rooftop views, bars stocked with more Scottish gin than Scotch whisky, gourmet haggis to sample, dueling-for-attention castles and cozy pubs. It boasts the world’s largest monument to a writer (Sir Walter Scott) plus museums open late and boisterous live-music venues.

Edinburgh is Jekyll and Hyde, literally. Robert Louis Stevenson’s iconic tale was not only inspired by the city of his birth, it is also the perfect metaphor for this metropolis. It is cultural by day, the hub of debauchery by night. Trainspotting is discussed over high tea. Ghosts of criminals past mingle with the royal family.

It’s a good thing the city is so compact. It makes Thursday night on the town easy to cram with cool activities. Here is an itinerary sure to please both Dr. Jekyll’s respectability and Mr. Hyde’s deviousness.

3 p.m.

The Scott monument offers up gorgeous architecture and sublime views of the city. (Photo: Getty Images)

For sublime views of the city, start at the Scott monument. The elaborate Victorian Gothic architecture can be seen from any vantage point on Princes Street. Climb to the top of the 287 steps and take in the medieval-style skyline.

3:30 p.m.

Pop into Eteaket for some afternoon tea and snacks. (Photo: Eteaket Tearoom)

After that climb, refreshment will be needed. The Eteaket Tearoom has award-winning teas and scrumptious sweet and savory bites — the perfect British afternoon treat. Sip a hot “cuppa” or try its innovative tea cocktails, like the Royal G & Tea with aromatic Royal Earl Grey tea, gin, tonic, and lemon over ice.

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4 p.m.

Treat your eyes to some art at the Scottish National Gallery. (Photo: Scottish National Gallery)

A quick walk takes you to the Scottish National Gallery, an eclectic museum with art from all eras, including a modern wing. Pass portraits of the well-heeled classes, and head over to the Scottish Art floor. Landscapes of the Highlands, paintings of winged maidens in tapestry robes, and modern sketches make this collection a well-curated overview of the country’s art.

5 p.m.

Get one more dose of history at Edinburgh Castle before hitting up the pubs. (Photo: Calvin YC/Flickr)

It’s pub time, but before a drink, take a brief but brisk walk through the Old City up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. Take in the view like a king, lording over his lands. After the rewarding Scottish scenery, cut down through to West Bow Street and stop in at Bow Bar.

5:30 p.m.

The Bow Bar is a classic pub with a fantastic whisky selection and plenty of beers on tap. (Photo: The Bow Bar/Twitter)

Pop in at the comfy, grab-a-seat-where-you-can Bow Bar to catch up on the latest from the locals. Known for having the best whisky selection in town, Bow Bar fills up quickly during the early evening. Try something from its rare and esoteric collection, such as the elusive 1983 Port Ellen.

6 p.m.

Relax in the gorgeous outdoor hydro pool at One Spa. (Photo: One Spa/Facebook)

Escape the misty cobblestone streets and prepare for a night of carousing with a detox session at One Spa. This is not just any spa. This sanctuary has recreated every type of wet and dry sauna experience in one magnificent place. You’ll find a Hammam (Turkish bath), aromatherapy-scented wet rooms, dry wooden saunas, heated stone chairs, and an outdoor hydro pool with views of the theater district. There is something exhilarating about sitting in rejuvenating hot water while breathing in the crisp Edinburgh air.

7 p.m.

One Square has taken the classic gin and tonic, perfected it, and turned it into a thing of beauty. (Photo: One Square)

After a good soaking, slip into a dry martini.One Square has a wide, hand-chosen collection of Scottish gin, as well as global entries. Hugh Gibb, mixologist extraordinaire, can lead customers on a exploratory gin journey. For a hip new twist on the classic martini, try a “perfect serve,” which pairs a specific gin with a specific tonic water and garnish. Choose from Caorunn Gin, Fentimans’ botanically brewed tonic water, and a slice of apple or Pickering’s Gin, Schweppes Ginger Ale, and fresh ginger, for instance. Either is a winner.

8 p.m.

Whiski Rooms’ haggis spring rolls are so tasty, you won’t even think about what it is you’re actually eating. (Photo: Whiski Rooms/Twitter)

Set just slightly off the Royal Mile, Whiski Rooms is a smooth and sophisticated eatery catering to the local hipster. The food is fantastic without being stuffy, served in a convivial atmosphere. Some say Whiski Rooms has the best haggis in town. Don’t be shy, try the haggis spring rolls. The Asian twist on this Scottish classic is divine. Low lights, antique clocks juxtaposed with modern art, bespoke and themed whisky tastings, and food pairings like “Whisky and Chocolate” make this a Thursday night hot spot.

8 p.m.

You’ll be spellbound by the lavish decor and decadent dishes at The Witchery. (Photo: The Witchery)

For wine aficionados who prefer their Angus steak tartare paired with a bold cabernet, try The Wichery, instead. This famous restaurant is popular with theatergoers, since it stays open until 11:30 every night. The Witchery is aptly named, and its sorcery extends to the dishes, the lavish decor, and the romantic spells it casts on patrons. The award-winning wine list doesn’t come with a spooky price tag, either.

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10 p.m.

Just below Edinburgh Castle is the Grassmarket, an area full of pubs and fun things to do after dark. (Photo: Thomas Kurmeier/Getty Images)

After dinner, join tourists and locals alike on a pub crawl down Grassmarket. Once Edinburgh’s central market, this is now a destination for pubs, DJ dance music, and drink deals. It’s hard not to have fun on this former site of public executions.

11 p.m.

Stop by Whistlebinkies for some rocking live music. (Photo: Markus Thorsen/Flickr)

Scottish music boasts much more than bagpipes in the fog and Whistlebinkies is proof. If live music calls, go to this renowned venue. Be prepared to hear everything from rock to blues to jazz and ska, with three bands nightly until 3 a.m.

11 p.m.

We can’t guarantee that you’ll see a ghost at Deacon Brodies, but after a few pints, you might think you did. (Photo: fiona macaroni/Flickr)

Head for a nightcap at Deacon Brodies. The real-life inspiration for Jekyll & Hyde, Deacon Brodie was an upstanding citizen by day and a thief by night. A Thursday night in Edinburgh is just not complete without sharing a pint with a ghost at this haunted bar.

Midnight

What better way to end a boozy night in Edinburgh than with some fish and chips and deep fried Mars bars? (Photo: TripAdvisor)

Be warned. Eat before ending the evening, or a wicked hangover will ensue. The Clam Shell is a much-loved “chippy” — that’s fish & chips eatery for Americans — that stays open late. Deep-fried Mars bars and haggis are also recommended.

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