Colorado’s Hot Springs Make for a Steamy Winter Getaway

Colorado’s hot springs are even better in the cold. Hot Sulfur Springs Resort & Spa has 24 pools to choose from. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

By Jessica Festa / Jessie on a Journey

While Denver’s restaurants, arcade bars, burlesque-fused comedy shows, expansive parks and outdoor activities (not to mention the pot) will keep anyone entertained for days, I still found myself craving a few day trips when I was there on a recent trip. Along with hiking Mount Falcon (great views and only a 20-minute drive from Denver), I grabbed a friend and headed up to Grand County, a place I’d explored on previous travels but never through its hot springs.

Yes, Colorado is full of hot springs!

There are 30-plus hot springs to choose from in the state, some wild (and free to enter) and others more built up to act as tourist attractions. My Google search showed me a couple within an hour of Denver; however, the TripAdvisor reviews were questionable. When I expanded my search to two hours I came across Hot Sulphur Springs Resort & Spa, and the photos of an idyllic complex of steamy, curative pools nestled by mountains won me over in an instant. The venue also offered deals, like free access to the pools (an $18.50 value) if you book a 60- or 90-minute massage (prices start at $75) and a $10 pool pass if you booked a 30-minute massage (prices start at $45) in the 12-room spa. Salt scrubs, facials, body wraps and other treatments are also offered.

A Snowy Hot Springs Day

It snowed a ton on the day we went up to the hot springs —as in there was almost a white out. While my New York City heritage didn’t quite equip me to handle driving in the snow, a slow and steady mindset got us to our destination safely, and being in the snowy mountains — dressed in warm boots and oversized sweaters as the crisp air nipped our cheeks — made city life feel miles away.

Related: Quirky Colorado: A Weekend Getaway Guide to Offbeat Denver

It also gave the hot springs an interesting twist. Not all of the 24 pools — which vary in temperature from 98 to 112 degrees Fahrenheit— are outside. In fact, a few are accessible via an indoor room jutting right off the locker rooms, meaning you never have to trek into the snow in your bikini. That said, there was something serene about being submerged in 102-degree water while icicles dripped above our heads and the sun shimmered off fresh powder (though the sun decks, swimming pool, and loungers spread about also told me this is a worthwhile place in the summer). Plus, I’ve heard switching your body temperature from hot to cold repeatedly is good for you, similar to a Nordic Thermal Circuit. Even so, I highly recommend bringing sandals, water and a warm towel (or preferably a robe) for switching pools without turning into a human popsicle.

A Curative Experience

So what’s so great about hot springs aside from the fact that they’re uber relaxing? The waters are naturally filled with minerals — as in the resort doesn’t add a single chemical, nor do they filter or re-circulate the waters. Colorado’s Hot Sulfur Springs area is lucky enough to have seven natural springs flowing above a large fissure 35,00 feet below the Earth’s surface, which releases heat from volcanic rock. These springs have been flowing non-stop for hundreds of years (the Ute Indians and their horses and dogs once bathed here) and stay at a temperature of 104 to 126 degrees when they reach the surface (the resort then controls them to more comfortable range of 95 to 112 degrees).

So soothing. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

Some minerals my companion and I had the fortune of introducing our bodies to, and their benefits, according to the resort:

• Sodium: improves messaging functions to and from the brain, regulates heartbeat and blood pressure, and keeps you hydrated by helping the body retain water.

• Sulfate: great for hair, nails and skin and also flushes toxins from the body.

• Chloride: balances the body’s PH levels.

• Silica: reduces aches and pains and helps the body maintain flexibility.

• Potassium: assists organ and muscle function.

• Calcium: strengthens bones and teeth.

• Fluoride: strengthens teeth.

• Magnesium: relaxes the muscles, increases energy and helps the body absorb minerals.

• There are also trace elements of iron, manganese and zinc for added health.

Peering out from an indoor hot spring. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

The water is also apparently drinkable, although the little white floaty pieces of concentrated mineral and the rotten egg sulfur smell will likely make this option unappetizing.

So serene. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

Eating and Drinking Around Grand County

Speaking of appetizing, in addition to enjoying board games and fires in the condo and curative tubs, we ate our way around the stretch of road from Winter to Hot Sulfur Springs, about a 30-40-minute drive. Some recommendations:

For breakfast, we ate at The Mountain Rose Cafe in Winter Park, a cozy and welcoming venue with typical breakfast ingredients prepared in creative ways, such as cinnamon roll french toast and a whole avocado stuffed with poached eggs and beans. Walls are adorned with inspirational quotes, including this one from Oprah: “Lots of people want to ride with you in the limo, but what you want is someone who will take the bus with you when the limo breaks down,” and “The wisest mind has something yet to learn,” by George Santayana.

Related: Is the Pot Tourism Scene in Denver Half Baked?

A delicious Mountain Rose Cafe breakfast. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

We had lunch at Mid Town Cafe in Granby: I highly recommend either breakfast or lunch in this space, which feels like a fusion between a café, a living room and a co-working space, with stocked book shelves for sale (all proceeds benefit local libraries), lots of plush chairs and couches as well as booths, and a decadent pastry case enticing guests with blondie bars, gooey brownies and iced cinnamon rolls. I thoroughly enjoyed my turkey, brie and cranberry wrap with vegetarian chili, while my companion raved about his ham and cheese, the cheese gooey and melty on both. They also have a ton of different drinks, including Mayan hot chocolate with chili and cinnamon, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and steamed milk topped with hazelnut syrup and whipped cream.

Sip a spicy Mayan hot chocolate at the Mid Town Cafe. (Photos: Jessica Festa)

Rocky Mountain Roasting Company in Fraser was our coffee break. We happened upon this place after an epic search for any coffee shop that was open past 2 p.m. To be fair, we did go in the off-season, which made it a bit trickier. Luckily, we found this spot, which roasts its fair trade, organice beans in-house. We learned that roasting at high altitudes — like they do here, as Fraser sits at about 9,100 feet elevation in town — allows for a more pronounced flavor profile.

Related: 10 hidden hot springs you can have all to yourself

After a long day of soaking in hot springs, you deserve a locally crafted beer. Get a pint at Byers Peak Bistro & Brewery. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

For dinner (with a view), pull into Byers Peak Bistro & Brewery in Winter Park. This brew pub was right next to our condo, and was a fun stop because you can view the beer production inside, and then head upstairs to view the mountains outside — particularly beautiful at at sunset. The food was standard pub fare (wraps, sandwiches, burgers, wings and wood-fire oven pizza), although the highlight is the homemade beer.

Our cozy condo came complete with board games, movies, and a fireplace. (Photo: Jessica Festa)

Where to Stay

If you prefer to stay overnight rather than make this a day trip, you can book a room onsite at the hot springs; but my companion and I opted to book a condo in nearby Winter Park through Vacations Inc. For a huge two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo with full kitchen, dining room, living room and two balconies — not to mention amenities like free coffee, a slew of board games, a DVD player with DVDs, tons of books, a fireplace and cable television on a big flat-screen — the cost was $172 total (although rates range from $115 to $397 throughout the year). Snuggling up with some spiked hot cocoa near the fire and playing Scrabble was the perfect way to end our day in Grand County.

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