A Daytime Tour of Mexico City’s Coolest Neighborhood
Bikes, skateboarding gear and local fashion at 180º Shop. (Photo: Vicky Navarro)
By Jennifer Ceaser
In the year since the Eataly-inspired Mercado Roma opened on a desolate block in Mexico City’s Roma Norte neighborhood, the bustling food hall — with 60-odd vendors serving everything from squid tortas to tangy ceviches to tamarind-flavored truffles — has become the place to sample the city’s diverse culinary scene, and a must on every tourist’s checklist.
And while the crowds squeeze into every square inch of the bi-level market (those sightseeing buses idling out front aren’t just for show), 10 blocks away is the recently opened Purveyor, an elegant quasi-food court housed in a 19th-century mansion.
Surrounding the serene courtyard patio, which is shaded by a huge tree that pierces the glass roof, is a variety of cuisines, including contemporary Mexican at Dulcinea Kitchen Urbana, burgers at the American-styled Jucy Lucy, caipirinhas and Brazilian fare at the sexy Garota and detoxifying drinks at Mora Mora.
Garota mixes up sexy Brazilian cocktails. (Photo: Handout)
Even as Roma Norte is rapidly gentrifying, the district — which borders the far posher Condesa — still retains a pleasantly scruffy, bohemian vibe. Its leafy streets, lined with beautiful Art Nouveau and Beaux-Arts mansions (now mostly offices), and interspersed with the occasional graffitied wall, are home to trendy restaurants, hip cocktail lounges and edgy boutiques.
And while folks flock here at night to dine and party until the wee hours, the area is also prime for exploring by day.
Related: How to Travel to Mexico for $17 a Day
Fuel your morning with a coffee — sourced from small Mexican producers — and a sweet or savory pastry at the always-packed Panaderia Rosetta.
The bakery is run by Elena Reygadas, voted 2014’s best Latin American female chef, whose Italian-influenced Rosetta restaurant, also in Roma Norte, is one of the city’s toughest reservations.
One of the 60-odd food vendors at Mercado Roma. (Photo: Handout)
Also the creation of a famous female Mexican culinary whiz, Delirio, from chef Mónica Patiño, is a casual, all-organic, deli-style eatery that serves Spanish toasts in the morning (ham, egg, and mayo) and filling tortas and salads at lunchtime. Housemade jams and other local artisanal products are also sold.
Shopping-wise, Roma Norte does have a couple of clothing chains — namely American Apparel and a Dr. Martens store — but it’s mainly indie boutiques that favor urban-cool local designers and lots of vintage.
With its wall of skateboards, smattering of bicycles, stacks of hip T-shirts and even hipper sneakers, 180º Shop might skew young, but the affordable men’s and women’s fashions by Mexican designers and jewelry crafted by local artisans are worth checking out no matter your age.
Related: Shhhh… Keep it a Secret: Mexico’s Undiscovered Beach Towns
Shoes made by hand in Mexico at Goodbye Folk. (Photo: Salvador Sahagun)
Channel your inner rock star at the eclectic, wallpapered Goodbye Folk, which stocks a well-chosen selection of vintage pieces — long flowy dresses a la Stevie Nicks, punky leather jackets, band-emblazoned tees — along with shoes made by hand (that can also be made to order).
Head to the back of the store to have a peek at the secret barbershop — or treat yourself to a trim.
Set in a 1920s townhouse, La Valise is a high-end concept store from the mind of French ex-pat Emmanuel Picault, who also runs the uber-chic, three-room La Valise hotel just above the store.
Eclectic offerings at La Valise boutique. (Photo: Yves Naman | La Valise)
The pricey, well-curated offerings, mainly by Mexican designers, include hand-crafted leather bags and clutches from Ruiz Musi; anatomical jewelry (teeth-shaped pendants and bone-like rings) from Varon; contemporary architectural dresses from CIHUAH; and Picault’s own antiques and oddities that he sources from around the world.
The bookstore/cafe/cultural hub Cafebrería El Péndulo has six locations across the city. If you don’t want to read Spanish, you can always drink and eat: The Roma branch has a full bar, outdoor terrace and a performance space.
Al fresco hot spot Contramar for lunch. (Photo: Handout)
For lunch, the place to see and be seen is at one of the handful of outdoor tables at Contramar; this is the second location of the popular seafood restaurant (the other is in Condesa). Just about everyone orders the famed tostadas de atun, perfectly marinated tuna loin topped with crispy leeks and accented with a spiced chipotle mayo. And be sure to save room for the desserts, which are brought tableside on a huge tray and are impossible to resist.
Related: How to Eat Like a Local in … Mexico City
Can’t score a seat? A reliable backup is the local chain Butcher & Sons, known for its spiked milkshakes and tasty burgers named after music idols: Cash, Bowie and Zappa, to name a few. Kitschy, yes, but the setting is more Brooklyn industrial chic than American diner, with exposed brick, pendant lighting and brown leather booths.
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