Why Peter Copping Can Carry On Oscar de la Renta's Legacy
It goes without saying that Oscar de la Renta was in a league of his own. Debonair until the day he died, he leaves behind an impeccable legacy, not just as a designer, but also as a husband, father, humanitarian and a damn good dancer. Between his dancing and his charm, he was fashion’s own Fred Astair.
While we continue to mourn his loss, we also look to the future. And it is shining brightly within the capable hands of Peter Copping, the person that de la Renta handpicked to carry on his eponymous label. “We have spent a considerable time determining how best to bring a new and important creative voice into our company,” Alex Bolen, chief executive of Oscar de la Renta (and the designer’s stepson-in-law) announced at the time of his appointment. “Peter will bring a fresh perspective to our brand, continuing the evolution of our business.”
Here’s why we think it will work: Copping, 47, is a reserved Brit from the countryside with a demeanor as warm as bath water. In a sense, he is the perfect successor for a brand whose leader had shone so brightly. Unlike John Galliano, who, when looking to revive his reputation was welcomed into the de la Renta atelier but only stayed one season after reportedly having innumerous demands, Copping is much more discreet. He has been quietly working in fashion for 25 years and his impressive CV includes positions at Christian Lacroix, Iceberg, Sonia Rykiel, and a long tenure at Louis Vuitton — where he served as the calming antidote to Marc Jacobs’s mania for a dozen years.
In 2010, he was tapped to replace Olivier Theyskens as the Artistic Director at the house of Nina Ricci. After years of toiling under obscurity at other design houses, it was finally his time to step out into the spotlight. Where as Theyskens collections failed for being too dark and gothic, Copping excelled by bringing femininity and glamour to the brand. He also instantly understood the well-to-do clientele but did not become consumed by them as some designers would. “Our clients really do want good quality,” told W magazine at the time. “And if something references haute couture, well, then that’s a no-brainer for them. We do quite a lot of special orders, and you have to remember that 25,000 euros for some people is the same as 2.50 euros for others. If you have that amount of money, fair enough. But the one thing I really like is when people enjoy dressing up.”
The joy of dressing up is something that Mr. de la Renta reveled in. He loved his women to be vivacious and glamorous, and Copping knows how to make clothes that are tastefully elegant and not ostentatious. His final collection for Nina Ricci in Milan was comprised of feminine three-quarter length skirts and dresses that were nipped at the waist. Glamorous with a retro vibe, the pieces were awash in sweet shades of pink, orange, red, and baby blue — perfect for a woman on the go who adores fashion but does not want to be victimized by it.
It is never an easy thing to let go. And Oscar de la Renta will never be replaced. While this is a major fashion shift (akin to when Yves Saint Laurent took over for Christian Dior), there is really no one better suited to take over de la Renta’s incredible empire than Copping. No one will forget what Mr. de la Renta has done. It is Copping’s job as his successor — where he will be overseeing all categories including home and bridal — to make that legacy shine even brighter. And we have no doubt that he is up to the task.
