The Rules According to Gucci
Here’s play-by-play of today’s runway show in Milan.
“What are we going to do with all this future?” asked today’s Gucci invitation. The answer, according to designer Alessandro Michele: Mine the s*** out of the past. Among his tangle of runway references were the glittery leggings of the 1980s, the embroidered silks and painted parasols of the 1780s, medieval nun hoods, and comic book UFOs.
Butterflies are the new bees
Michele didn’t stop with a world history remix. He doubled down on his own past too, with a new dose of bejeweled creatures (this time it was butterflies instead of bees). They were embroidered and gilded on the clothes, but you’ll really want them on those soon-to-be-sold-out handbags.
And bats are the new spirit animal
Gucci’s word of the day is CHIROPTERA, which basically means “bat” and was emblazoned across a sweater. To hammer home the point, Michele made a backward Batman knit top. Want it now? Search vintage shops online for Luella Bartley’s spring 2008 collection and you might find a close approximation.
Still cool: Wes Anderson characters
The king of celluloid twee continues to influence catwalks, as Fantastic Mr. Fox and The Royal Tenenbaums both were evident in the creeptastic embroidered fox prints and ’70s squash player headbands. Stamped with the Gucci logo, they’ll be a street style staple by Paris … and a Canal Street knockoff by tomorrow.
Still required: stylish siblings
Bella and Gigi were absent, but their ultracool counterparts emerged instead. That would be Soko, the French singer and actress who’s become a beloved house muse for the label, and her brother Max Sokolinski, who made his runway debut on today’s catwalk. Check out Soko’s Instagram stories for behind-the-scenes shots of Max’s “runway lessons,” given last night by model Veronika Vilim. (As for the Sisters Hadid, expect them this week at Moschino.)
Hang on to your vinyl
Mixtapes may have our heart, but records still have the fashion cred, especially once Gucci’s limited-edition “albums” hit eBay. Sent as invitations to showgoers like Jared Leto, the records feature poetry from front row talent Florence Welch and A$AP Rocky, who reads a love letter by Jane Austen. (You can download the recordings for free on the Gucci app too.)
Buy some press-on earrings
You know the tiny jeweled stickers you put on your ears as a kid? Get the teardrop or raindrop ones now and stick them on your cheeks. Michele placed them on some models as an ’80s-gang-tattoo-Amadeus-velvet-mole mashup. Yes, that is a real description, and it might be a real trend soon too. Prepare thyself.
Invest in cool young artists
Last year Gucci hired graffiti darling Trevor “Trouble” Andrew — aka GucciGhost — to make prints for its collection, while feminist photographer Petra Collins turned up as a model. This season Michele invited the scrawl-happy artist Coco Capitán to handwrite on clothes and accessories, while teen photographer Zora Sicher walked the runway.
Read more:
Gabriela Hearst’s Clothes Are Beautiful and Political
Bella Hadid and Presley Gerber Walked in Zadig & Voltaire’s First New York Fashion Show
Proenza Schouler Says Goodbye and Hello
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