The DETAILS Denim Guide
The DETAILS Editors
That cornerstone of your wardrobe? You still need to take it up a notch every now and then. Read on an updated version of the iconic Levi’s 501, a cheat sheet for nailing tailored denim, the washes to get this season, and one spray that will save your jeans from the laundry. Plus, a roundup of the coolest indigo pieces that could almost pass for the real (denim) deal.
A Classic Remastered
Given the explosion of denim brands over the past decade, there’s something gratifying about pulling on a pair of jeans that’s been the hands-down gold standard since, well, guys were panning for gold over a century ago. That’s not to say a classic can’t be improved. Levi’s, which is messing with its iconic 501s in the best possible way, is releasing a tapered-fit version (the ankle hem is two inches narrower than the classic cut). The inspiration? “A number of us had customized our own 501s from way, way back by tapering the leg,” says Jonathan Cheung, the brand’s senior VP of design. (Rest assured, the originals are still going strong.) It’s one of spring’s many new denim staples we’ve highlighted on the following pages—think white jeans that can’t go wrong, a designer brand that’s more ranch hand than runway, washes you’ll want, and more. Because if these 501s prove anything, it’s that evolution isn’t a bad thing.
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Don’t Be Scared of Tailored Denim
You already know that taking your jeans to the tailor is a smart idea, but what we’re talking about here is the other type of tailored—designers working denim in a way previously reserved for cotton twill or wool. It’s a shift that hit critical mass this season, with a focus on unwashed, rinsed pieces refined enough for the office but still rugged enough to remind us that this is the fabric Marlon Brando rocked in The Wild One. To make the look your own, reach for mix-and-match options like the pleated trousers from Michael Kors (far right) or an urban take on the four-pocket military jacket, paired with a simple T-shirt and low-tops (center). And if you want to really go for it, this Burberry single-breasted two-button blazer with matching pants (cut like trousers, with slash pockets) is the best-looking Canadian tuxedo we’ve seen in a very long time (near right).
Lighten Up: The Best Washes to Get This Season
Given the seemingly endless spectrum of shades to choose from, it doesn’t hurt to have a little guidance. Below, our fashion editors’ top picks from some of their favorite brands.
Getting the Blues: 8 Denim Must-Haves
Denim is so essential these days that designers are churning out doppelgängers—fabrics and knits that look as good as the real thing. Think not-so-basic tees, flawlessly tailored blazers, and other effortlessly wearable items. Then, just to keep you on your toes (that’s a hint), they’re throwing denim back in again where you’d least expect it. And like your jeans, these pieces play well with others.
1) Blazer ($595) by 3.1 Phillip Lim. 2) Scarf ($90) by Alex Mill. 3) Sneakers ($638) by Visvim. 4) Pants ($195) by Industry of All Nations. 5) T-shirt ($70) byClub Monaco. 6) Sweater ($70) by Banana Republic. 7) Jacket ($118) by Gap. 8) Shirt ($158) by Steven Alan.
Why You Should Invest in These Designer Jeans
Tom Ford is proving once and for all that luxury and five-pocket jeans are by no means mutually exclusive. For spring, he’s releasing a new denim line with a range of washes and three fits—slim, regular (a roomier thigh and tapered ankle), and straight. Beyond aesthetics, hidden details justify the hefty price tag. Think copper- and silver-plated buttons and stretch material woven into the cotton fibers that helps prevent sagging. Ford fans may be surprised, given the designer’s penchant for Savile Row–level tailoring. “Most people are used to seeing me in a black suit, but I always wear denim in Santa Fe and Los Angeles,” he says. “If you pair denim with a great belt and classic Chelsea boots, it gives a very sophisticated look.” Whatever you do, it’s hard to go wrong with jeans this good. Starting at $570.
Ron Herman, the king of Southern California cool who’s launching his own denim line this month, on the beauty of wearing out your favorite jeans.
"I have a slim-cut pair in raw denim. I’ve worn them so often without washing them that now they’re like a vintage jean. They’re very personal to me—the distressed look is genuine, organic, and from authentic use."
Click here for more of DETAILS’ denim guide.
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