At its latest runway show in Paris, the fashion world’s admiration and obsession with Vetements is still as strong as ever. The brand — which you may remember for its $1,000 sweatshirts, $100 socks, and tons of celebrity fans like Rihanna — last season moved its show from the usual Paris Fashion Week schedule (September and February) to the Haute Couture calendar (January and July).
Max Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow — the cute boys behind Public School — made their debut as the head designers at DKNY today. It’s an appointment that seems to make perfect sense: Both guys grew up in New York and have always looked to the street for inspiration. Donna Karan may not be in charge anymore, but she is a legend, full stop. On the other, expectations were high. Inspiration: New York City baby! Karan created DKNY 26 years ago as an homage to the city that she loves.
In menswear, it seems, the hottest trend is womenswear. While designers like Public School have been flirting with androgyny for years — dropping pants crotches into quasi-skirts and T-shirt hems into demi-tunics, all with an insouciant tongue extended at the Mad Men look — some of the newest acclaimed designers have gone full-out ambisexual. One of them is 29-year-old Rio Joe Uribe, the creative force behind Gypsy Sport, which made a splash during the last New York Fashion Week Men’s in July, and again on Tuesday night during the women’s collections. He’s been nominated for the prestigious CFDA /Vogue Fashion Fund Award for menswear, alongside Thaddeus O’Neil (one of his brethren in gender-blurred designs), and David Hart.
Jon Buscemi, the founder of the much fetishized men’s sneaker line Buscemi, never intended to make kicks for women, but when Rihanna and the model Jourdan Dunn started seeking them out in the smallest sizes, he quite understandably reconsidered. “It’s been great to see women flocking to the brand,” Buscemi says. “It’s a little tongue-in-cheek,” Buscemi admits.
By Leah Rodriguez In the summer, striped shirts are as essential as good sunscreen. But when it’s colder, they’re like a faraway dream in the back of your closet, reminding you of happier times. This week, style bloggers around the world demonstrated how to do away with set rules by breaking out their stripes in the winter. They layeredblack-and-white turtlenecks under jackets, showed off printed socks , and even mismatched stripes with plaid .
Big brands like Gucci, who recently promoted their head accessories designer, Alessandro Michele to creative director, showed cropped jackets slung over blouses with floppy bows—either a nod to Kurt Cobain or a statement that blurs gender boundaries. Related: Gender-Bending Fashion Takes Ahold of the Men’s Shows In casting, too, those regular hypersexual guys with bronzed, chiseled abs were replaced with androgynous models, so that it was a challenge to decipher whether the model wearing Look 22 at Rick Owens was actually a man or woman (though some of Owens’ garments exposed the genitalia of models—a real give away). Related: Tit For Nut: Rick Owens Embraces the Male Form Vivienne Westwood was even trickier this season, casting an androgynous woman to open her menswear show earlier this week. Courtesy of Elliott Sailors/Tristan Ewald In fact, Sailors, who used to pose on the beach in string bikinis for photographers Bruce Weber and Ellen von Unwerth, decided to shear her long blonde locks in favor of a more boyish look in 2012.