Carine Roitfeld‘s Nail Artist Debunks the ‘French Manicure’ Myth

In honor of Bastille Day, Yahoo Style and Yahoo Beauty are examining what it means to be “French” — the myths, fantasies, and realities that all help define that certain je ne sais quoi. What’s vrai, what’s faux, and what’s a total faux pas? Read on.

When you think about a French manicure, you probably picture ultra-white tips and maybe even a squared-off shape. But in reality, that well-known manicure is about as French as french fries — which is to say, not French at all.

What we typically consider to be a “French” mani was actually invented in 1975 by an American man named Jeff Pink — who founded Orly nail polish. As Pink explained in 2014, the clean, two-toned nail resulted from a movie director asking him to solve the issue of an actress who had to switch out her manicure to match each wardrobe change. “Many dresses meant many polish changes, and this was before the time of quick-dry drops or LED light to speed up the process,” he explained. “Time spent with the crew waiting for polish to dry meant production was at a ­standstill.”

Originally, Pink’s manicure (which he dubbed “the natural look”) was created using a white pencil under the free edge — i.e., the tip that extends from the finger. But that faded too easily, so he altered the look to include color applied directly on top of the nail. It was a hit. “The director commented that I should get an Oscar for saving the industry so much money,” said Pink.

It wasn’t until later that the French manicure found its name — on the runways of Paris, no less. “If you think that actresses change their clothes a lot, models do it even more,” said Pink. “I introduced the natural nail look to the catwalk shows and, again, they loved it. On the way back to Los Angeles, I was thinking that the name was more descriptive than snappy. So I decided to call it the French manicure.”

And the rest, of course, is l’histoire.

The style has lasted and is now a standard request at nail salons around the world — though these days, you’re more likely to see a French manicure on a Costco regular than Karlie Kloss. Aside from a momentary nod from Karl Lagerfeld and the occasional appearance on Snoop Dogg, Pink’s invention is typically considered the epitome of basic style. And as for actual French girls? The so-called French mani is so not their bag.

To get the real expérience française, I consulted celebrity nail artist Mar Y Sol — the go-to manicurist for ultimate French femmes Carine and Julia Roitfeld, as well as “it” models Ashley Graham, Martha Hunt, and Olivia Culpo.

Using the Formula X Hydrating Prescription set from Sephora, Mar Y Sol gave me the same manicure she gives her coolest French clients: sheer, chic, and sophisticated. She started by filing my Lana Del Rey–length talents into a more manageable, balanced oval shape. Then, after massaging oil into my dehydrated cuticles, she painted on several coats of Formula X Wondrous — a baby pink so delicate and sheer that it made my entire nail look clean, healthy, and refreshed, from bed to tip. Et voilà: The style is just as fresh as Jeff Pink’s version of a “French” manicure but much softer and with far fewer steps and colors. It’s also much more actually French feeling: natural yet somehow just … better.

I’m not ashamed to admit that immediately after my mani, I ran out to Sephora to snap up my own bottle of Wondrous. I mean, maybe I’ll never be an actual French girl … but you certainly wouldn’t be able to tell from mes doigts.

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