One tank trip: Amelia Island drifts you into Victorian London with 'Dickens on Centre'

Full disclosure: in high school I signed up for a college-level seminar on the literature of Charles Dickens. We read his most noted works and pages of his journalism. I loved his quirky characters and adored his observations, social commentary and how he, in perfect form and grammar, could twist, turn and run a sentence the full length of a paragraph.

Indeed, the jaunty, pointed drama of it all!

When I heard that a small barrier island off the coast of north Florida hosts an annual Dickens-themed Christmas festival, I was intrigued. At just two hours south of Savannah, Amelia Island, Florida, offers a unique holiday experience — “Dickens on Centre” — a family-friendly event so jolly and packed with fun.

It’s sure to brighten the countenance of even the humbug-i-est of sour Scrooges.

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It all begins Dec. 3 at First Baptist Church with a performance from Wynton Marsalis and The Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra. That Friday also kicks-off “Dickens Dining Week,” with restaurants across the island featuring Victorian-inspired menus. During my visit, I got a chance to try one of those items at The Beech Street Grill.

The Beech Street Grill, an elaborate wedding gift built in 1889, boasts two stories of bay windows, verandahs and Chippendale-style balustrades. Its intricacies harken to a bygone era replete with all things romantic. Whether single or hitched, Beech Street Grill is a dining experience equal parts decadent atmosphere and sumptuous cuisine.

As appetizer, I opted for collard greens stuffed with cornbread, Andouille and shrimp, for main course selected the crab-encrusted flounder with garlic broccolini. Dessert was triple layer chocolate cheesecake—so delicious, I ordered a second for take away.

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Later, I wandered over to the Green Turtle Tavern. Not quite a dive bar, but it’s definitely a spot locals frequent—lots of band and beer stickers on the walls, and names of patrons near and far scribed in pen and marker. A wooden-beamed, wrap-around porch invites animated conversation. The bartender on duty is also a notary public.

“I can sign anything you need a notary for,” beamed Bob Tidball. “Mostly legal things for real estate, but I’ve notarized divorce papers in here.”

Tidball, who relocated to Amelia Island almost fifteen years ago, is happy with his decision. Here, not only does he tend bar and notarize — ultimately having a finger on the very pulse of the island — but he’s also a woodworker and builds furniture, doors and more when he’s not at the tavern.

“This bar is like a microcosm of the whole island,” pondered Tidball. “Young people, old people, regulars and visitors all come here because it’s laidback, chill and honest, and as long as no one brings up politics, it’s always a good time.”

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On Thursday, Dec. 9, the island kicks into high gear with all things Dickensian when the community gathers for the annual illuminated procession. Folks dress up in their best Victorian attire, walk around with homemade lanterns and end up at the waterfront where the evening concludes with live music and fireworks.

“It’s really the thing to do here,” emphasized Amy Boek, marketing officer for Amelia Island. “We have local school groups that really get into it and make lanterns as art projects, and then most people dress up. Imagine what it’s like having the community dressed as Dickens characters and carrying lanterns—it’s beautiful and fun to see how people get into it.”

New this year is the “Dickens Enchanted Village.” The village is a series of domes — like super-sized snow globes — large enough to accommodate six people and boasting a variety of Dickensian themes.

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“Snow globes are considered a Victorian-era creation, and they seemed like a fun thing to introduce to the celebration,” said Marilou Welling, Amelia Island’s director of engagement. “And since some people are still a little hesitant to be in big social gatherings, we thought this might be a fun experience for families, or even a special date night.”

The snow globes feature charcuterie and an array of beverage options for those above and below 21.

The island is also home to artists, artisans and independent retail storeowners—including two mom-and-pop bookstores—as well as a toyshop. Todd Duncan and his daughter, Theresa, have owned and managed Ville Villekulla Toys for the past seven years. Their toys are special. Remember those wooden train sets where magnets held each car together? They sell those. And Gumby and Pokey! And science experiment kits and pretty much every toy I ever enjoyed as a child.

“Our focus is on the imagination, toys and games that are rugged. We don’t sell any electronics,” said Duncan. “I enjoy being a business owner on Amelia Island, we’re all really connected and supportive here, and I’m looking forward to the Dickens Christmas celebration. They always dress me up in some kind of costume, and like our store, it’s always an adventure in imagination and magic.”

This article originally appeared on Savannah Morning News: Amelia Island becomes Victorian London with Charles Dickens festival