New Mexican fare closer than you think | Dining review
Feb. 2—La Rosa Southwestern Dining in Palmer Lake evokes the Land of Enchantment in its cuisine and ambiance without the need to trek to New Mexico.
The exterior's muted colors and warm interior with artwork-adorned walls transport diners from the busy highway bisecting this small community. We were met at the door by Mike, who seemed to be friends with everyone in the place. We felt the same way by the time we left.
It wasn't until we were almost out the door, though, that Mike volunteered that the most popular dish at La Rosa is the braised lamb shank ($27). Earlier, en route to the table where it was destined, he briefly stopped at our table to show off a large piece of meat in a deep red sauce. It's a 16-ounce lower section of a leg of lamb rubbed with cumin and other spices before a slow braise in New Mexican red chili.
Even without previously knowing Mike's opinion, we found numerous enticing menu items.
Chips and salsa are the norm at most Mexican restaurants. La Rosa deviates a bit with house-made tortilla chips with yellow corn and black bean salsa. This is refreshing, colorful and not about the heat. Instead, spiciness is evident in the sauces augmenting the entrees. Newcomers to the restaurant are advised to ask for sauce samples.
Four sauces on a small plate feature the different heat levels. Bland best describes the mild while the very hot is smoky and just right. Green chili is tasty, but the pork green chili won us over.
Our meal began with the fundido ($10), a blend of white cheeses with a touch of sour cream that provides sharpness and helps keep the cheese from congealing. For an extra $4, chorizo was added. This arrives at the table in a sizzling, cast-iron pan rimmed with corn tortilla chips. A small amount of diced tomatoes and onions sit in the center, creating a floral look. It's creamy and satisfying enough to whet the appetite.
When freshly made masa (cornmeal dough) is advertised in the description of tamales, do not hesitate to order them. We opted for shredded pork filling with pork green chili sauce. These tamales ($15) earn high marks for the right balance of masa and filling; too often the former overshadows the latter. The savory pork is abundant. Each order includes two tamales, which are served with rice and beans. A to-go box was needed because it's a lot of food.
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My expectations for chicken mole ($16) are high, so they weren't completely fulfilled. I appreciated the large chicken breast pounded thin to keep it moist. However, the dark, thick sauce was ordinary. That is, the myriad ingredients needed to create a depth of flavor didn't shine. This doesn't mean I won't return, only that I'll order lamb shank next time.
We ended the meal with house-made, light and airy tres leches cake ($7); flan is another dessert option. The milky cake is sweet and moist. Topped with a thick layer of whipped cream, it's a well-made rendition of the classic Southwestern dessert.
La Rosa Southwestern
Dining
New Mexican cuisine
Location: 25 Colorado 105, Palmer Lake
Contact: 1-719-368-7676; larosasouthwesterndining.com
Prices: $9 to $27
Hours: 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday; 5 to 8:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday brunch (closed Monday and Tuesday)
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Reservations accepted.
Favorite dishes: Fundido and pork tamales
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.
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