Craft beer makers look to region's farms to grow grains
Apr. 18—The only local thing about regional craft beer right now is the water, according to farmer Vince Mangini of Crabtree.
For example, at All Saints Brewing in Hempfield, founder Jeff Guidos typically gets his malt from German and other European companies.
Through Food21's "Farm to Tap" program, Mangini wants to decrease that supply chain's distance by a few thousand miles, connecting local farmers such as himself with the region's craft brewers and growing grains that need only be transported a few miles down the road.
Mangini serves as "value chain coordinator" for the Pittsburgh nonprofit Food21.
"We built the concept around finding those gaps in the supply chain," he said. "Last year, we grew barley in the spring — against the advice of some of our farm partners, but we didn't want to miss a season."
On Saturday, Guidos and All Saints debuted Old Hanna's Town Ale, made with winter barley grown by Mangini and a neighboring farm family, the Heinnickels.
Guidos said he could watch the barley get taller on his commute to work.
"I drove past it every day and watched it grow," he said.
Partnering with CNC Malting Co., near Butler, Guidos and Food21 had nearly everything they needed to complete a local supply chain.
"With a team of experts — from agronomy and agriculture to malting and marketing to the vibrant craft brewing community — this project is demonstrating what others have talked about but have not done," Mangini said. "We leveraged our region's assets — human and economic — in sustainable ways."
In keeping with the beer's local origin and historical theme, Guidos used a recipe created by Thomas Jefferson in the 18th century.
Other breweries partnering with Food21 for the first round of beers include Four Points in Charleroi, Recon in Butler and Monday's in McMurray.
"We wanted to go north, south, east and west to find partners," Mangini said.
In the meantime, the next barley crop is already in the ground at several Westmoreland County farms.
Mangini estimates it will ultimately yield the equivalent of 1.5 million bottles of beer.
"Our research is showing that growing winter barley can be more profitable than some other crops," Mangini said. "And you can also double-plant — you can plant those same fields with soybeans later in the year."
Other partners in the initiative include the Westmoreland Conservation District and the McKenna Foundation, along with participating farms and consultants.
Food21 President Joe Bute said he's excited to see the initiative's effects ripple in the local economy.
"This is mutually beneficial to all links in the regional craft beer food chain," he said. "Significantly, when Food21 commits to a $3,000 investment in seed, excluding our direct costs, we deliver to the state's economy more than $20 million in direct revenue benefit."
Patrick Varine is a Tribune-Review staff writer. You can contact Patrick at 724-850-2862, pvarine@triblive.com or via Twitter .
