BIPOC restaurant owners talk of some of the struggles, learn from each other
Sep. 18—Chef David Vargas has pushed his Mexican cuisine to the limit with locally grown ingredients and "adventurous" flavors since opening Vida Cantina in Portsmouth in 2013.
The restaurant owner has faced challenges as part of the Black, Indigenous and People of Color Business Owners (BIPOC) community. One is the perception that Mexican food in New England should be relatively cheap and taste a certain way, Vargas said during a recent event in Manchester to provide resources to BIPOC owners.
"I think a lot of people think they can come in and almost have their way with it," he said. "They kind of feel like it is their place almost."
Struggles such as labor shortages and rising food prices have impacted the entire restaurant industry. The daily challenges are also real, with the restaurant's oven recently breaking.
Vargas joined three other BIPOC business owners Tuesday morning at the Palace Theatre's Spotlight Room to talk about all the challenges they face, which was moderated by James McKim, president of the Manchester NAACP. The event was hosted by Community Driven Economic Empowerment Program coalition members and involved multiple groups including the U.S Small Business Administration and New Hampshire Community Loan Fund.
Joanna Kelley, Portsmouth's first Black assistant mayor and owner of Cup of Joe Cafe and Bar in that city, said many in the BIPOC community have to overcome cultural perceptions.
"I wanted to create a fully inclusive environment where everyone feels safe, comfortable and welcoming," she said.
Kelley and Vargas have become close friends and connect with other business owners in Portsmouth.
Dominican-born Sandra Almonte has owned Don Quijote Restaurant at 362 Union St. in Manchester for 22 years. She said the biggest challenge over the years was surviving the recession.
"I know how to weather the storm," she said.
Almonte said she works with salespeople to make sure she gets the best deals on food, so she can keep prices lower for her customers.
Almonte owns a nearby triple-decker that she rents to her workers. Recently, she received a variance from the Manchester zoning board to build three more affordable housing units for her staff. She said there are 11 families she would like to be able to work with on housing.
"I am hoping it is a stepping stone for them to save money and own their own house so we can beautify the center city," she said.
Almonte said she had trouble navigating the process of getting a Paycheck Protection Program loan and worked with the SBA to get the much needed funds.
Kenny Frasch, owner of the Hop Knot at 1000 Elm St., said his business was self-funded, but he has a network of other business owners he goes to for advice. The mixed-race family aims to make the craft beer and pretzel bar safe for everyone.
Frasch said language can be a barrier for some BIPOC owners.
Vargas just signed a new five-year lease for the space on Lafayette Road. Vida Cantina has become a destination, he said.
He leans on his staff and wants to build an environment where staff want to stay.
He communicates in a group thread with other restaurant owners who share employees looking to pick up shifts.
Cup of Joe celebrated its second anniversary when the COVID-19 pandemic hit.
Kelley admits she can be skeptical of programs and loans available for businesses, but she has learned may of them are designed to help businesses grow.
Kelley said she recently became the majority owner.
"I can officially say this is a majority woman-and-black owned business," she said.
