Wine Kicks the Bottle

Two things that are true at the same time: The world of wine has changed immeasurably in the past 9,000 years. It has also barely changed at all. Just about the biggest shift—from clay pots to glass bottles—took more than a century to perfect and catch on. That was 200 years ago. Which should explain—but not excuse—the less-than-thrilling first few years of the wine-in-cans movement: The producers who bought in were so obsessed with the novelty, they forgot to compete on taste.

We're happy to report—after several months of consulting pros, throwing back cans, and draining boxes—that those low expectations can now officially be crushed and thrown in the recycling bin. The landscape has fully adapted, so ditching glass no longer means compromising on quality. Some killer producers, in California, on Long Island, and even in old-school Europe, have joined the movement, selling wine in aluminum, boxes, and Tetra Paks. For winemakers, the shift makes sense: Less packaging weight means more sustainable, less expensive shipping. Which means drinkers get a buzz with a lower carbon footprint. Still not convinced? Try shoving a wine bottle into a koozie and dragging it to the beach.

Drink What You Know

"If you liked it in the bottle, it's a safer bet than something that only comes in cans,” cautions Chad Walsh, sommelier at New York City's Agern restaurant. Can-only labels often buy bulk, factory-produced juice.

Try: The White Queen, a canned Chardonnay by cult Sonoma producer Matt Ahern


Stop on Red

"Lean, fresh whites and rosés probably respond to cans the best,” says Walsh. That goes for boxes, too: “You don't want them to evolve.” Reds, on the other hand, rely on a little oxidation, and you need a cork for that.

Try: House Wine's Riesling—juicy, but not too sweet, from the first time you tap the box


Bag It Up

Bag-in-a-box wines have been popular in Europe for years, for one obvious reason: Europeans drink a lot of wine. But the appeal isn't just the size; the wine stays fresh longer (up to six weeks).

Try: Jenny & François's “From the Tank", a series of boxed natural wines sourced from prime vineyards in France


Know Your Math

A typical can of wine is half a bottle, so Walsh recommends pouring it into a cup, regardless of the package it came in. But if restraint isn't your strong suit, buy small.

Try: Francis Ford Coppola Winery's Sofia Blanc de Blancs Mimi, which comes in 187-milliliter cans, each roughly the size of one glass


Watch:

2 Chainz Drinks a $5,000 Bottle of Wine

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