What to Do in Berlin's Kreuzberg Neighborhood
By Gisela Williams, Travel + Leisure
With East Berlin certifiably yuppified, locals are moving back to the old West. The epicenter? Kreuzberg, the former hotbed of counterculture.
Gallerist Johann König has resurrected St. Agnes, a Brutalist-style Catholic church and an adjacent community center, transforming them into dramatic art spaces. Now on view: interactive sculptures by Berlin-based artist Jeppe Hein. 118-121 Alexandrinenstrasse.
Set in an old locksmith’s shop in the legendary SO36 district—where punks, artists, and Turkish immigrants settled in the 1970’s—the ambitious concept store Voo carries a cool mix of clothing (vintage Missoni; sharply cut jackets from local brand Don’t Shoot the Messenger). 24 Oranienstrasse.
Berliners love their Chinese food—and Long March Canteen, a stylish new dim-sum den, has caught their attention. An open kitchen, communal tables, and neon lights set the stage for inventive small plates; try the sweet pork dumplings and ox-cheek carpaccio infused with chile and cinnamon. 20 Wrangelstrasse.
On Thursday nights, follow the foodies to the revived 1891 Markthalle Neun (pictured) for its recently launched street-food fair. Our pick: the handmade Käsespätzle from Heisser Hobel, the city’s first spaetzle truck. 42 Eisenbahnstrasse.
Former painter Hans Richard lends an artful flair to his intimate Restaurant Richard. The self-taught chef turns out dishes such as veal sweetbreads with sunchoke-and-mushroom mousse and a sculptural sour-plum cake—all served under a carved wooden ceiling and chandeliers made from blown-glass bubbles. 174 Köpenicker Str.
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