Week in Reviews: Bauer Reconsiders Corso; Roth Obsessed at Souvla

Rose Garrett

[Photo: Corso/Facebook]

Bauer "had to go" after getting word that former Top 100 flame Corso had changed course, especially after hearing that one of his "all-time favorites," the brown butter chicken, remained on the menu. He trotted back to Berkeley in this week's update review, and found that the new pasta cooker "is doing its job superbly," though house-cured salumi "was more hit-and-miss." Chef Scott Eastman's "passion comes to the fore" on olive oil-poached albacore, and grilled yellow jack proved "a good rendition," while the "exceptional" chicken sausage surprised Bauer. Service was "thoughtful and relaxed," and Bauer once more invoked his mythical dessert hall of fame in honor of the panna cotta. All told, "Corso remains true to an Italian vision," and though "it's not quite there yet ... it is well on its way." 2.5 stars. [Chron]

Meanwhile, Roth admits to being slightly obsessed with Hayes Valley's Souvla, where the "delightful" pork salad comes "studded with juicy hunks of American Homestead pork shoulder," with each bite "a mix of crunch and softness, savory and smooth." Living around the corner from Charles Bililies' new Greek eatery makes it easy to indulge, with the "casual, stripped-down design" matched by the streamlined menu of salads, sandwich wraps, "tangy and thick and slightly sweet" frozen yogurt and Greek wines. Bililies "has ambitious plans to eventually expand the concept throughout the city," and Roth isn't complaining: "he knows the importance of simplicity and consistency of vision," and with menu additions on the way, "another dish to obsess over" could be just around the corner. [SF Weekly]

While the a few local reviewers were gone fishin' this week, Luke Tsai hit up Perdition Smokehouse, where "the accoutrements of ... a hipster barbecue restaurant" give way to a selection of "pretty darn tasty" Texas-style barbecue. "Reasonable" pricing and "an exceedingly casual" vibe work in the spot's favor, and though the brisket was "a little bit dry and salty," Tsai pronounced the house-made hot links "some of the juiciest that I've ever had" and named the St. Louis-cut ribs "the ideal choice if you're a connoisseur of 'bark'." Cowboy beans, beers, and the imposing Phineas Gage sandwich all impressed, and you'll want to make liberal use of the paper towels Perdition provides at every table. [EBX]

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