The war in Gaza reshapes Ramadan into a somber ritual in Jerusalem's Old City

Marcus Yam, Tracy Wilkinson
·4 min read
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JERUSALEM, ISRAEL -- MARCH 22, 2024: Worshippers listen to a sermon about the suffering in Gaza during Dhuhr afternoon prayers in the Al-Aqsa mosque compound in Jerusalem, Israel, Friday, March 22, 2024. (MARCUS YAM / LOS ANGELES TIMES)
Worshipers listen to a sermon about the suffering in Gaza during Dhuhr afternoon prayers at the Al Aqsa Mosque compound.

The Islamic holy month of Ramadan, which ends this week, is a time of spiritual renewal, communal bonding and reflection on one's relationship with God and fellow human beings.

But this year, in Jerusalem’s Old City and across the Muslim world, evening feasts to observe the end to a day of fasting have been shaped by sadness and frugality.

People picnic on a rooftop with views of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem's Old City.
People picnic on a rooftop with views of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem's Old City.
A man and older woman sit at a table in a home, eating an iftar meal.
1. Muslims break the fast with an iftar picnic Sunday on a rooftop in Old Jerusalem. 2. Chef Izzeldin Bukhari and his mother, Hala, eat an iftar meal of leftovers to show solidarity with fellow Palestinians in the Gaza Strip.

Like many Muslims, chef Izzeldin Bukhari and his mother, Hala, of Jerusalem have forgone traditional extravagant “break fast” meals for simple dishes out of sympathy for the suffering of fellow Palestinians trapped in a ferocious war in the Gaza Strip between Israel and the Hamas militant group.

On a recent Friday, as the call to prayer echoed through the Old City’s Muslim quarter, the pair broke their fast in silence, eating reheated leftovers and stale bread dipped in a garlicky sauce.

A young Palestinian boy plays with a soccer ball in the Muslim quarter inside the old city of Jerusalem

Like many Palestinians, the Bukharis have relatives in Gaza, where most have been unable to escape six months of Israeli bombardment that has killed more than 33,000, mostly women and children, according to Gazan officials. The war began Oct. 7 when Hamas-led militants from Gaza attacked southern Israel, where about 1,200 people were killed and about 200 taken hostage, authorities say.

Devout Muslims enter the Old City of Jerusalem through Damascus Gate.
The devout enter the Old City of Jerusalem through the Damascus Gate, past food and toy vendors, to pray and break the daily Ramadan fast.

In addition to widespread destruction, Gazans are enduring severe shortages of food and medicine and face possible famine in the coming weeks, according to aid groups.

The staggering death toll and scale of suffering changed how Ramadan has been observed. Jerusalem, home to some of Islam’s most holy sites, is normally festive with music, bright lights and colorful decorations along the Muslim Quarter’s stone alleyways.

An overflow of worshipers make the Dhuhr afternoon prayers outside the entrance to Al Aqsa Mosque.
An overflow of worshipers make the Dhuhr afternoon prayers outside the entrance to Al Aqsa Mosque.
Shopkeepers make evening prayers in the old city of Jerusalem.
1. An overflow of worshipers pray outside the mosque. 2. Shopkeepers in the Old City kneel for evening prayers.

This year, worshipers walked through dimly lit paths, devoid of signs of celebration, a somber reminder of the war in Gaza.

Muslims make their way to Al Aqsa Mosque along a path devoid of Ramadan decorations.
Muslims make their way to Al Aqsa Mosque along a path devoid of Ramadan decorations.
A man prepares bottles of fresh carrot juice, a staple for Iftar meals
Devout Muslims make the pilgrimage into Al Aqsa carrying their iftar meals, and sometimes their children.
Muslims head to Al Aqsa Mosque carrying iftar meals, and sometimes their children.
An overflow of worshipers stream out into the market entrances that lead into the Al Aqsa Mosque compound.
Worshipers pray in the market entrances leading to the Al Aqsa Mosque compound.
Crowds move around at night outside the Old City of Jerusalem near Damascus Gate.
People gather near the Damascus Gate on Friday, which was Laylat al Qadr, the "night of power." (Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)
Two people walk through an alleyway.
Alleyways in the Old City of Jerusalem lack the usual Ramadan decorations.

Yam reported from Jerusalem and Wilkinson from Washington.

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This story originally appeared in Los Angeles Times.