From tacos to naan pizza, Chaska restaurant in Cranston does modern Indian fusion
CRANSTON - Just as Chaska was opening at the end of 2019, restaurateur and chef Sanjiv Dhar was telling me how proud he was of his newest restaurant. He felt the modern menu would be groundbreaking.
The name Chaska is a Hindi term for the word obsession, often relating to a love for a particular food and/or drink, Dhar said at the time.
It took me almost three years to get there. But I can now say Dhar was correct. The menu at Chaska can well spur an obsession.
My meal, a lunch special of flatbread and salad, was a revelation of flavors and textures. They blended beautifully together.
Though tempted to say the food took my breath away, I won't. That's because I don't want anyone to think it was crazy spicy. I'm always distressed with the food stereotypes that some people hold close, especially the one about Indian food being to hot to handle.
In the hands of a fine chef, the blend of spices can be warm, but bright. That's what you find at Chaska.
Serving modern Indian dishes
General manager Jeffery Branch talked to me after my meal as I sought to deconstruct all the wondrous flavors that I enjoyed.
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He said the idea of the Chaska menu is to create entry points for those reluctant to try Indian cuisine. Many of the dishes feature blends of the signature Indian spices. Then, they are prepared using other international cuisine techniques. He calls it modern Indian.
This fusion includes Naan Flatbreads and a lineup of tacos. There are also dishes of Smoked BBQ Spareribs, Brussels Sprouts Thoran and Chili Cauliflower.
The Naan Fatbreads come in four versions: Chicken Tikka, Paneer Cheese with roasted corn, Madras Shrimp and Roasted Vegetables.
"They are an Indian spin on pizza," said Branch.
The topping for my naan had pieces of chicken tikka, marinated in traditional harissa spices. There were also amazing red onions that have a cumin-scented rub. The naan itself was tender and delicious, something not to be taken for granted.
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The $12 lunch special combo allows diners to enjoy a naan flatbread with a choice of signature salad.
I opted for the stellar Roasted Vegetable Salad, not something you see on many Indian menus. The sweet potato, carrot, broccoli and cauliflower are marinated in a secret blend of cumin, coriander, tumeric, ginger and garlic before roasting. Then they are served with a light citrus dressing on a bed of romaine lettuce. It's not just original but delicious with the heat of the vegetables juxtaposed with the dressing.
Even more unique are the tacos on the menu. They come in varieties that include two vegetarian ones of trendy jackfruit and popular avocado, though it's fried here. There are two seafood ones with shrimp and salmon. And a chicken one.
Like the naan and pizza, tacos give a dinner a new path to trying the Indian spices and preparations.
Chaska has even built a Taco (and Margarita) Tuesday weekly special for guests to try four tacos, fire roasted corn, seasonal margaritas, guacamole and garlic naan. You don't see that naan combo everywhere. Dinner for two on Taco Tuesday is $60.
Barbecue spareribs are not at all a traditional dish in Indian cuisine. At Chaska, they take on traditional flavors with Old Monk Rum - the iconic Indian dark rum used as a base for the smoky barbecue sauce. They are cooked on an open fire adding to the layers of flavor.
Traditionally, a lot of Indian food is vegetarian. Their menu includes vegetarian items such as Saag Paneer, a cheese dish, and Chana Masala which features chick peas in a tomato-based sauce with coriander and cumin.
But they kick it up with Brussels sprouts, which are fried and tossed in a thoran masala sauce with shredded coconut.
The Chili Cauliflower is a crispy and sweet dish heated up with a Thai chili glaze on fried cauliflower, bell peppers and purple onions.
About chef Sanjiv Dhar
The recipes all come from Dhar, a European-trained chef, said Branch.
He combines flavors from his native India with what he learned first studying in Austria and then working in England and New York City. He moved to Rhode Island to get a degree from Johnson & Wales University. His tour of duty may have stopped on Thayer Street when he bought Providence's Kabob and Curry in 1990, but his education continues on his trips to India.
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How else does one fashion a menu that features Jackfruit Kofta, vegetarian dumplings, Lamb Kabobs and Okra Masala?
Chaska is the sister restaurant to his group that includes Kabob & Curry as well as Rasa in East Greenwich and Rasoi in Pawtucket.
Its appealing patio, with 30 outdoor seats, has been well-used these past few years. The specials have also been enticing to diners. In addition to lunch and Taco Tuesday, there is a Date Night Monday dinner for two ($60 4-9 p.m.) that includes two entrees, one appetizer, dessert, naan, rice and bottle of house wine, red or white.
Details: Chaska, 16 Midway Rd., Garden City, Cranston, (401) 537-7900, chaska-usa.com.
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This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Cranston's Chaska Indian restaurant give modern twist to traditional
