Rio de Janeiro restaurants

Expert guide to Rio de Janeiro

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2. Hotels

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4. Restaurants

5. Nightlife

6. Beaches

The best places to eat in Rio de Janeiro, from upmarket restaurants to beach-side cafés and snack bars, in destinations including Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. By Doug Gray, Telegraph Travel's Rio expert.

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Térèze

The Hotel Santa Teresa’s exclusive hillside restaurant, Térèze, is comfortably the neighbourhood’s most upmarket dining experience. This being Rio, that doesn’t mean it isn’t also elegantly casual, the interior resplendent in burnt cement floors and reclaimed wood galore. Arrive at sunset for a drink on the terrace with a palm tree-framed view out towards Guanabara Bay, the heaving city below seemingly a million miles away. Portions are small, but that, along with a sturdy wallet, merely allows for more courses to be devoured. The tiger prawn cocktail, perfectly cooked lamb and some beautifully presented desserts dazzle the senses, all backed up with charming, friendly and well-informed service.

Address: Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660, Santa Teresa
Getting there: taxi recommended (around R$45 from Copacabana)
Contact: 00 55 21 2222 2755; santateresahotelrio.com/restaurants/tereze/
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 12.30pm-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight; Sat, Sun, 12.30pm-midnight (closed Wed)
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: lunch or dinner around R$175
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Sushi Leblon

Sushi Leblon is the most stylish contemporary Japanese restaurant in town – the sharply-attired line patiently awaiting a table most nights of the week says it all. The quality of the service may never hit the heights of the food, so it is best to just sink back and let the experience wash over. I’ll always start with a bowl of edamame and an ice-cold Bohemia beer to accompany a lengthy study of the extensive (English and Portuguese) menu. The simple salmon sashimi is out of this world, but more exotic combinations include sea urchin, snook and eel.

Address: Metrô Antero de Quental
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Baixo Leblon
Contact: 00 55 21 2512 7830; sushileblon.com
Opening times: Mon, midday-4pm, 7pm-1.30am; Tue-Sat, midday-1.30am; Sun, 1pm-midnight
Cuisine: Japanese
Price: lunch or dinner around R$160
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Plage Cafe

After you have been once, the mere thought of Plage Café’s incredible setting is enough to get the mind racing with plans of when to go back and with whom. Brunch or drinks? Healthy salad or indulgent cakes? Really, the details are irrelevant, because once you settle in to the grandeur of Parque Lage’s stylish little indie eatery all bets are off. Up a short driveway a few hundred yards from the Botanical Gardens is the former grand abode of industrialist Enrique Lage and his singer wife, set into the rainforest with Corcovado thrusting upwards behind it towards Cristo’s feet, the house itself is now an art school and exhibition space but scattered around its open-air, Italian-inspired central pool are the tables and chairs of a superb café-cum- bistro-cum- bar. Go for coffee and cake, a restorative Bloody Mary, the almost intimidatingly large ‘deluxe brunch’ or a mighty burger, safe in the knowledge that the previous incarnation’s problems with overrun waiting staff and queues are a thing of the past and the opening hours have been extended, creating evenings to savour while occasional DJs soundtrack the action.

Address: Rua Jardim Botanico 414
Getting there: Metro na Superficie Maria Angelica
Contact: 0055 55 21 2535 7336
Opening times: daily, 9am-6pm
Cuisine: brunch
Price: brunch around R$55
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Pérgula

The famous swimming pool of the Copacabana Palace hotel is the backdrop for Pérgula, a light and airy restaurant that almost spreads itself out among the sun loungers. Like in all good poolside restaurants, the club sandwich comes stacked high, salads are plentiful and an eclectic list of starters includes nachos, shrimp tempura and oysters. Come Sunday, however, the restaurant is devoted solely to the art of brunch, an all-you-can-eat buffet of caviars, seafood, pasta, salads and breads, accompanied by a bottomless glass of prosecco. The price makes it a one-off treat, but there is joy to be had in arriving early and leaving with a big smile and a very full stomach.

Address: Avenida Atlântica 1702, Copacabana
Getting there: Metrô Cardeal Arcoverde
Contact: 00 55 21 2545 8790; copacabanapalace.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 12.30pm-4pm, 7pm-midnight; Sat, Sun, 1pm-5.30pm
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: Sunday brunch R$240; lunch or dinner around R$150
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Olympe

Carioca chef Claude Troisgros’ flagship restaurant by the Lagoa still gets people cooing at the mere mention of its name. Celebrating three decades of fine French cuisine in 2013 with a discreet facelift, Olympe remains the city’s number one European dining experience, and with prices to match. Opt for the chef’s tasting menu and let five of the day’s imaginative Brazilian updates of European classics arrive unhurried to the table, with optional (and highly recommended) wine harmonising for R$175 extra. The à la carte menu is no less appealing, though, with foie gras, seafood and beef all featuring in grand style, but the lamb cannelloni with truffle consommé is hard to top. A new lunch menu was launched in late 2014 to offer a slightly more affordable route into the Troisgros world, with set menus starting at R$125.

Address: Rua Custódio Serrão 62, Lagoa
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Maria Angelica
Contact: 00 55 21 2537 8582; claudetroisgros.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-4pm, 7pm-12.30am; Sat, 7pm-12.30am
Cuisine: French, Brazilian
Price: lunch from R$145; dinner tasting menus from R$350; otherwise dinner around R$210
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: essential

Bazzar

For the quintessential Ipanema dining experience look no further than the chic and sleek Bazzar, where the food is every bit as appealing as the gorgeous dining room décor and the seafood is second to none. Settle into one of the Sergio Rodrigues-style white leather-panelled or soft brown-leather armchairs and pour over a menu of modern Brazilian dishes with locally sourced seafood high on the list of priorities. Start with scallops from nearby Ilha Grande and follow with Búzios shark served on a bed of creamy mashed plantain, or sample the quartet of moqueca-style oysters perched on a mound of rock salt. Steak, rabbit and pulled pork also feature on a comprehensive and surprisingly hearty menu, all served by sharply turned out waiters to tables that buzz with the assured air of local celebrity. The bubble bar stocks Brazilian sparkling wines from Rio Grande do Sul, as well as more celebrated offerings from houses like Krug and Dom Pérignon.

Address: Rua Barao da Torre 538
Getting there: Metro Nossa Senhora da Paz
Contact: 0055 21 3202 2884; bazzar.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-midnight; Sun, midday-10pm
Cuisine: Brazilian, seafood, fusion
Price: Dinner around R$150
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: 

Aprazivel

High up on the Santa Teresa hillside, Aprazivel spreads out across a wonderfully rustic terrace offering couples romantic nooks and larger groups a crowd-pleasing and original setting to dine in. On a balmy evening, request one of the tables outside or call ahead and hope that the group table, set in what can best be described as a tree house, is available. Order carefully, for while the lamb shank is excellent, the chicken ‘galinhada’ is less enticing, but there are several good fish options, not least the seasonal ‘moqueca’ stew and 'carnival' octopus, that rarely disappoint. Like the food, the wine list is almost entirely Brazilian, providing a good opportunity to sample the fruits of the southern states.

Address: Rua Aprazível 62, Santa Teresa
Getting there: taxi recommended (around R$25 from Copacabana)
Contact: 00 55 21 2508 9174; aprazivel.com.br
Opening times: Tue-Sat, midday-11pm; Sun, midday-6pm
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: Lunch or dinner around R$135
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Casa da Suiça

It may not be the first thing on many people’s lists when they think of Rio, but when the sun isn’t beating down and the long sleeves come out, it is fondue time. A perennial favourite of the state’s cooler hillside towns, there is only one worth knowing in the capital and its location says everything about its authenticity. Deep inside the Swiss consulate in Glória, Casa da Suiça recreates a little European elegance, where bratwurst, steak tartare and some inventive seasonal menus vie for attention with the cheese, meat and seafood fondues. Despite the auspicious location, caution is advised when wandering the neighbourhood after dark.

Address: Rua Candido Mendes 157, Glória
Getting there: Metro Glória
Contact: 00 55 21 2252 5182; casadasuica.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-3pm, 7pm-midnight; Sat, 7pm-midnight; Sun, midday-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm
Cuisine: French
Price: lunch or dinner around R$180
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Irajá Gastrô

Partly responsible for turning the north end of Humaitá into a red-hot gastro-hub for the city, and fully responsible for launching the runaway success of chef Pedro de Artagao's career, Irajá Gastro’s modern approach both in and out of the kitchen made the rest of Rio’s contemporary restaurants take note. The unusual twists on Brazilian classics are the standout dishes, be it the manioc chips with parmesan and liquefied butter or the pork ribs with a chic version of the classic bean-and-bacon tropeiro. The menu is ever-changing, but the juicy house burger and hot brigadeiro chocolate cake are dependable mainstays, and the cocktail menu is always worth exploring

Address: Rua Conde de Irajá 109, Humaitá
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Cobal de Humaitá
Contact: 00 55 21 3449 1834; lasai.com.br
Opening times: Tue-Fri, 7.30pm-10.30pm; Sat, 1pm-2.30pm, 7.30pm-10.30pm
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: dinner around R$135
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: essential

Stravaganze

Set in an unusual, modern wood-and-glass construction with a view of the Lagoa, Stravaganze’s name says almost all you need to know about the quality of the dining experience. If I could start every meal with the creamy burrata caprese and a slice of the famous Pão de Casa – essentially crispy-yet-fluffy pizza bread – then I certainly would. It doesn’t leave much room for the pizza, and order sparingly as the ingredients are invariably rich and filling, and portions are large. Given the surroundings, prices are far from cheap, but the experience is well worth the expense.

Address: Rua Maria Quitéria 132, Ipanema
Getting there: Metrô Nossa Senhora da Paz
Contact: 00 55 21 2523 2391; stravaganze.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 7pm-midnight; Fri, Sat, 7pm-midnight; Sun, 6pm-midnight
Cuisine: Pizza, Italian
Price: dinner around R$140; pizzas from R$80
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Lasai

Lasai is the work of a daring Brazilian-American couple with enough confidence to offer only one sitting per table per night. On Humaita's northern end, their beautiful colonial property was gutted and renovated to produce a light and airy setting in which to get acquainted with a sensational 13-course tasting menu. Start upstairs in the rooftop bar and let the staff create a cocktail to suit your tastes before deciding which of the two menus you are prepared to tackle. The 'Festival' is the full experience, with daily fresh ingredients forming the backbone of the chef's whims for the evening. Those less keen on surprises can select from set combinations of the day's specials. A true culinary adventure.

Address: Rua Conde de Irajá 191, Humaitá
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Nossa Senhora da Paz
Contact: 00 55 21 2523 2391; stravaganze.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 7pm-midnight; Fri, 7pm-2am; Sat, 2pm-2am; Sun, 2pm-midnight
Cuisine: Pizza, Italian
Price: dinner around R$115; pizzas from R$62
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Rubaiyat Rio

South America's premier cattle-rustlers Rubaiyat opened their first restaurant outside of Sao Paulo in 2014, and what a place to make their Rio name. Inside the grounds of the ever-atmospheric Jockey Club, with tables spreading out on a terrace overlooking the racetrack, the combination of sophistication and rustication is very enjoyable. However, the wait for a table can be long, so the impatient should avoid weekend lunchtimes. Still, the little details make it all worthwhile, propelling it above the likes of Botafogo's meat-masters Fogo de Chao. The beef hails from the Rubaiyat farm in Matto Grosso, and despite a bounteous Oyster Bar, it can be hard to look beyond the spectacularly juicy Queen Beef steak. With over 800 wines on offer, the perfect accompaniment isn't hard to find, all to be taken at a leisurely pace with the thunder of hooves in the background and imperious Cristo Redentor overhead.

Address: Rua Jardim Botânico 971, Jardim Botânico
Getting there: Metrô bus to Baixo Gavea
Contact: 0055 21 3204 9999; rubaiyat.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-midnight; Sun, midday-6pm
Cuisine: meats and grills, Brazilian
Price: dinner around R$200
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

££

CT Boucherie

Local celebrity chef Claude Troisgros' 2010 venture caused quite a stir when it opened on Leblon's famous gastro-strip. Flipping the established Brazilian norm of all-you-can-eat meat houses on its head, the attractive, red and white awning-covered CT Boucherie serves up a rodizio of vegetables to accompany the twelve options of à la carte steaks. Stuffed tomatoes, cauliflower cheese and creamy potatoes are among the items on the ever-changing list of sides, and if money is no object, the Kobi-style Wagyu beef is a worthy treat. The pork picanha goes particularly well with the chimichurri sauce.

Address: Rua Dias Fereira 636, Leblon
Getting there: Metrô Antero de Quental
Contact: 00 55 21 2529 2329; ctboucherie.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-4pm, 7pm-midnight; Sat, Sun, midday-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: set-price lunch menu R$75; dinner around R$150
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Adega Perola

Smack in the middle of Copacabana is the unusual, endearing and downright delicious bar Adega Perola, as unassuming as they come and all the better for it. What at first glance might appear to be a no-nonsense deli is in fact one of the neighbourhood's best-loved botecos (bars), the long glass counter laden with all manner of traditional Portuguese fancies, from exquisite lamb sausages and incredibly juicy olives to fresh octopus and marinated sardines. I like to ignore the menu and adopt the ‘peruse and point’ ordering technique, having seen what looks best. The brave can choose from over twenty types of cachaça, but the ‘bull’s blood’ wine is best left alone.

Address: Rua Siqueira Campos 138, Copacabana
Getting there: Metro Siqueira Campos
Contact: 00 55 21 2255 9425; facebook.com/AdegaPerolaRiodeJaneiro
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight; Fri, Sat, 11am-1am
Cuisine: Portuguese 
Price: lunch or dinner around R$55
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Amir

The continued popularity of Arabic food, first introduced by the wave of immigrants to Brazil in the early 19th century, is evident in the wealth of snack bars selling simple things such as esfiha and kibe. For a more extensive selection, look no further than Amir, where the rich and creamy hummus is served with pillow-soft pitta, the succulent lamb shwarma are wrapped in huge flatbreads and the falafel are the best in the city. An all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is served every day featuring many of the à la carte dishes for those who don’t want the agony of choice.

Address: Rua Ronald de Carvalho 55, Copacabana
Getting there: Metrô Cardeal Arcoverde
Contact: 00 55 21 2275 5596; amirrestaurante.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-midnight; Sun, midday-11pm
Cuisine: Arabic
Price: lunch buffet R$79; dinner around R$90
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not necessary

Azumi

The most authentic Japanese restaurant in the city, Azumi is tucked away on a quiet Copacabana street from where it serves up exceptional, award-winning sushi. The combos are a lesson in the simple pleasures of the ocean, but the main courses prove there is much more to the country’s cooking than simply raw fish. There is no better way to start proceedings than with a bowl of edamame beans and ice-cold sake, and even as a bona-fide sushi lover I find it hard to resist the ika sautée, combining tender, spicy squid with mushrooms and crisp, stir-fried vegetables. Larger groups should call ahead to book one of two screened-off tables where the floor-cushion seating all adds to the ambience.

Address: Rua Ministro Viveiros de Castro, 127, Copacabana
Getting there: Metrô Cardeal Arcoverde
Contact: 00 55 21 2541 4294
Opening times: Tue-Thu, 7pm-midnight; Fri, Sat, 7pm-1am; Sun, 7pm-midnight
Cuisine: Japanese
Price: dinner around R$130
Payment type: credits cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Balada Mix

There are several Balada Mix outlets across town, but the terrace of Ipanema's refurbished villa is the only one worth hitting for a sun-filled, al-fresco lunch. One block from the beach and one block from some of the most expensive shops in the city, it is invariably filled with Rio’s fit, perma-tanned tribe. Which accounts for the number of salads on the menu and an excellent shiitake and quinoa burger, but not for the fact that the rack of barbecue ribs falls over the sides of the plate and the steaks are huge. Healthy dishes like the grilled chicken and vegetables with brown rice are available, the fruit juice selection is comprehensive and the açai is unmissable.

Address: Rua Anibal de Mendonça 31, Ipanema
Getting there: Metrô Nossa Senhora da Paz
Contact: 00 55 21 2147 0111; baladamixrestaurante.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 11.45am-midnight; Sat-Sun, 9am-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian, quick bites
Price: lunch or dinner around R$90
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not necessary

Braseiro de Gávea

Much like the dependable city-wide Garota chain of restaurants, Braseiro does the simplest of Brazilian dishes very well. That means piles of carbs, ice-cold draught beer and lots and lots of red meat. The Picanha Brasileira comprises small slices of steak that are self-cooked right there at the table on a hot plate, served with rice, fries and farofa manioc flour. I’m always liberal with the vinaigrette sauce too because, before long, that and the meat juices get soaked up by the otherwise sawdust-y flour, transforming it into a remarkably satisfying and tangy side dish. Glamorous it isn't, but the surrounding area springs into life as the sun goes down.

Address: Praça Santos Dumont 16, Gávea
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Gávea
Contact: 00 55 21 2239 7494; braseirodagavea.com.br
Opening times: Sun-Thu, midday-1am; Fri, Sat, midday-3am
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: lunch or dinner around R$100
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Chez L'Ami Martin

In true French style, Barra’s foremost bistro conjures up memorable dishes that dazzle the tastebuds as much as they endanger the cholesterol levels. The cover is a positively essential starting point; as well as the customary baguette and salty butter it stars a martini glass loaded with French fries. The burger comes topped with Gruyère and Brie cheeses and the quality of the Minute Steak is hard to top. As ever, the Brazilian appetite for variety means that the likes of gnocchi and ceviche also feature, expertly handled by the friendly and appropriately named chef Pascal Jolly.

Address: Avenida General San Martin 1227, Leblon
Getting there: taxi recommended (R$30 from Copacabana)
Contact: 00 55 21 2512 8623; facebook.com/chezlamimartin
Opening times: Sun-Thu, midday-11pm; Fri-Sat, midday-midnight
Cusine: French
Price: dinner around R$160
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Espírito Santa

Santa Teresa is surprisingly light on decent restaurants, making the Amazonian-flavoured Espírito Santa, complete with its views across the hillside, all the more enjoyable. Be sure to grab a table on the terrace outside and give the sizeable menu the time it deserves. I always start with one of the unusual cocktails and the trouxinhas de axé, a thick, rich Bahian shrimp paste steamed in collard green leaves. Keep to the seafood as the steaks can be disappointing. Freshwater crab rice with pumpkin is a substantial plateful, and the Namorado da Cunha – fish served with Brazil nuts and coconut and banana rice – is out of this world.

Address: Rua Almirante Alexandrino 264, Santa Teresa
Getting there: taxi recommended (around R$35 from Copacabana)
Contact: 00 55 21 2507 4840; espiritosanta.com.br
Opening times: Mon, Wed-Sun, midday-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: lunch or dinner around R$115
Reservations: recommended

Frontera

This well thought-out per kilo buffet restaurant has convenient locations in Ipanema, Leblon and Barra as well as this one in Jardim Botânico. Frontera is perfect for a quick and reasonably priced meal at any time of the day. Huge bowls of fresh salads, an array of pulses and hot and cold vegetable dishes await, along with main dishes like chicken pie, grilled salmon and, of course, a huge grill of classic Brazilian beef cuts, sausages and chicken. After 6pm the kitchen fires up the pizza oven, from where an all-you-can eat rotation of decent slices – including chocolate and strawberry versions for dessert – are taken around the tables. Great for fussy kids and indecisive adults.

Address: Rua Maria Angélica 183, Jardim Botânico
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Maria Angélica
Contact: 00 55 21 2266 9800; frontera.com.br
Opening times: daily, 11.30am-11pm
Cuisine: Brazilian, pizza
Price: buffet R$85/kg
Reservations: not necessary

Emporio Jardim

Ever since first opening in 2014, Emporio Jardim has found its way into the hearts of Rio’s brunch lovers with the simple charm of a welcoming indoor/outdoor space, great service and a superb array of breads like the grain-laden Pao do Jardim and sourdough baguette. Moroccan-style eggs are perfectly poached in a rich tomato sauce, and the traditional tapioca comes filled with salmon and cream cheese, great accompanied with a detox juice or Sweet Mary, the house take on the classic cocktail. In fact, Emporio Jardim reinvents itself after dark with a drinks menu that includes Bellinis, Aperol Spritz and a refreshing gin, green tea and tonic combination to help set up an evening exploring this magical neighbourhood

Address: Rua Visconde de Graça 51
Getting there: Metro na Superficie Jardim Botanico
Contact: 0055 21 2535 9862; emporiojardimrio.com.br
Opening times: daily, 8am-10pm
Cuisine: Brazilian    
Price: Brunch from R$35
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Luigi's

With alarmingly few exceptions, Rio's pizzas tend to be a mess of rubbery cheese and sachets of ketchup in place of tomato sauce, which is what makes Luigi's all the more of a precious find. The light crusts from the wood-fired oven are topped with piles of juicy mushrooms on the excellent Al Funghi variety, and the ragu is freshly made. Once I discovered the sliced fresh chillis and pepperoni of the Diavola, however, I've never ordered anything else, but bear in mind pizza is only served after 6pm, even on weekends. Uninspired decoration indoors makes a table on the atmospheric, covered outdoor terrace a must. A few yards from Luigi's is the lively, locals' buzz of Praça São Salvador in Laranjeiras.

Address: Rua Senador Corrêa 10, Laranjeiras
Getting there: Metro Largo do Machado
Contact: 00 55 21 2205 7343
Opening times: Tue-Sun, midday-midnight
Cuisine: Italian, pizza
Price: pizzas from R$39
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Nova Capela

An eclectic crowd can be uncorked at the classic Lapa spot Nova Capela, as frequented by a mixture of businessmen and bohemians by day and young club-goers and musicians by night. It doesn’t try too hard to please, which somehow is half the charm, and the place gets packed later on when tables are at a premium, so arrive before 9pm and settle in for a dose of local spirit. Anyone requiring more than just cod balls, cold beer and a lively atmosphere should order the roasted goat with broccoli rice. Note that despite the high prices, the loos aren't exactly spotless.

Address: Avenida Mem de Sá 96, Lapa
Getting there: Metrô Cinelândia
Contact: 00 55 21 2252 6228; facebook.com/novacapelalapa
Opening times: daily, 11am-4am
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: lunch or dinner around R$110
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Oui Oui

The stylish sibling of the equally appealing Botafogo bar Miam Miam, Oui Oui serves up small portions in Le Creuset dishes and elegant bowls, best ordered in bulk and shared between a group. The restaurant is split into two distinct and equally inviting dining rooms, the furthest of which has slick, Sixties blue furniture to offset the slightly more formal front area. In the kitchen, chef Roberta Ciasca conjures up such delights as curried shrimp with okra and delicious caramelised pork ribs, but she isn’t one to hog the limelight. Regular guest chefs and themed weeks see Indian and Japanese menus pulling in the crowds.

Address: Rua Conde de Irajá 85, Humaitá
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Cobal de Humaitá
Contact: 00 55 21 2527 3539; restauranteouioui.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 7pm-midnight; Sat, 8pm-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: dinner around R$105
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

O Navegador

Having celebrated a 35-year career helming the kitchen of one of Centro’s favourite and most understated business lunch hotspots, Teresa Corção has taken O Navegador to new heights as owner and head chef, sourcing the best Brazilian ingredients from small-scale suppliers all over the country. It is the celebration of independent producers and their unique stories that make each dish stand out, from the Espirito Santa classic Torta Capixaba, a succulent bacalhau moqueca with crunchy farofa roof or the immaculate Terra Brasilis -fish of the day on a bed of banana da terra and manioc purée. National wines are also pushed to the forefront with some excellent rosé espumantes putting some fizz into lunchtimes in this wonderfully unpretentious and bygone setting overlooking Avenida Rio Branco.

Address: Avenida Rio Branco 180
Getting there: Metro Carioca
Contact: 0055 21 2262 6037; onavegador.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3.30pm
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: Lunch around R$140
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Sawasdee

Receiving the crown for best Asian restaurant five years in a row in the city’s biggest annual food awards, Comer e Beber, perhaps says more about the lack of competition than the authenticity of Leblon-based Thai specialist Sawasdee. This is very much a Brazilian take on the region’s dishes, with the green curry given a puff pastry topping that does little to add to the experience, but the presentation is invariably a joy to behold. It’s not all style over substance, either, as the lamb curry will attest. Grab a table outside on bustling Rua Dias Ferreira and watch the great and good of Leblon getting into their evening swing, or head to the new Ipanema outlet on Rua Barao da Torre for a well-priced tropical lunch.

Address: Riua Dias Ferreira 571, Leblon
Getting there: Metrô Antero de Quental
Contact: 00 55 21 2511 0057; sawasdee.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 7pm-midnight; Fri, Sat, midday-1am; Sun, midday-8pm
Cuisine: Asian
Price: set lunch from R$52, dinner around R$140
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Severyna

For a slice of north-eastern Brazilian entertainment – the real deal but with a nod to tourists – Severyna is hard to beat. On a nondescript Laranjeiras side street, the shrimp moqueca is rich with slugs of original Bahian dendê oil and the mashed pumpkin is a buttery delight. Try it with the sun-dried meat carne do sol or equally flavoursome carne seca, washed down with one of the best caipirinhas around. Every night features live music, be it samba, forró, or a surprisingly good Beatles covers band. Whichever you get, it isn’t long before the chairs are discarded in favour of a makeshift dancefloor.

Address: Rua Ipiranga 54, Laranjeiras
Getting there: Metrô Largo do Machado
Contact: 00 55 21 2556 9398; severyna.com.br
Opening times: daily, 11.30am-1am
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: Lunch or dinner around R$80, music cover R$10-15
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

Zuka

Restaurants may come and go along Leblon’s sought-after Rua Dias Ferreira, but thankfully Zuka and its signature charcoal grill look like they are here to stay. More exotic dishes such as the Thai fish wrapped in a banana leaf and meaty namorado (Brazilian sand perch) in a foie gras sauce are offered alongside dependable regulars like the house burger and lamb. It is always worth asking for the daily specials, and the wine list is comprehensive. Though the restaurant is a favourite for lunching ladies, it is after dark that the true charms of this contemporary dazzler come to the fore.

Address: Rua Dias Ferreira 233b, Leblon
Getting there: Metrô Antero de Quental
Contact: 00 55 21 3205 7154; zuka.com.br
Opening times: Tue-Fri, 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am; Sat, 11am-1am; Sun, 1pm-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: lunch around R$90; dinner around R$140
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

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Amazonia Soul

Left unchecked, a liking of açaí can quickly turn into a full-blown obsession, and after several years of loyalty to my local in Flamengo, I was finally lured away by the promise of a ‘virgin pressed’ version as touted by Ipanema’s Amazonia Soul. It lives up to the hype, too, albeit twice the price of those around it, but here the purple Amazonian berry superfruit is squeezed into a much creamier version without the guaraná syrup sweetness. The adventurous can add guaraná powder or tapioca, but its natural state is hard to improve upon. Other, more savoury regional specialities like Tacacá stew and crab soup are also worth investigating.

Address: Rua Teixeira de Melo 37, Ipanema
Getting there: Metro General Osorio
Contact: 00 55 21 2247 1028; amazoniasoul.com.br
Opening times: daily, 11am-9pm
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: snacks from R$18; açaí from R$15-22
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Azteka

Taking more of a café/bar approach to its Mexican food and drink, Azteka is a funky little spot on Ipanema’s busy high street that serves up quick and tasty burritos and quesadillas. The menu is unfussy, and the basics are done very well. The Oaxaca burrito is a sturdy chicken and rice roll seasoned just right, and Al Pastor pork shoulder with pineapple is as good as it sounds. However tempting, go easy on the hottest of the three chilli sauce options all orders come with. The torta hot sandwiches are more substantial, and the lunch deals are decent value.

Address: Rua Visconde de Pirajá 156, Ipanema
Getting there: Metrô General Osório
Contact: 00 55 21 3489 8900; azteka-rio.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-midnight; Sun, midday-11.30pm
Cuisine: Mexican, quick bites
Price: lunch deals from R$32, dinner around R$65
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not necessary

Bio Carioca

Vegan food has been slow to grab a foothold in the meat-heavy world of Brazilian restaurants, but as one of the pioneers, Bio Carioca has become something of a mecca for non meat-eaters in Copacabana. The chef rustles up a daily variety of constantly changing (and admittedly not all entirely vegan) dishes, with Asian flavours well represented, as well as lighter quiches, soups and salads, not to mention the array of tempting cakes and tarts. On a hot day, the watermelon juice with ginger is a lifesaver. The menu comes in English as well as Portuguese, but don’t be afraid to just go up to the counter and point at whatever looks good, for this is a friendly, family-run place

Address: Rua Xavier de Silveira 28, Copacabana
Getting there: Metrô Cantagâlo
Contact: 00 55 21 2523 4820; facebook.com/biocarioca
Opening times: Sun, Mon, 11.30am-6pm; Tue-Sat, 11.30am-midnight
Cuisine: Vegetarian, Brazilian, Asian, Quick bites
Price: lunch around R$40
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not necessary

The Slow Bakery

Who would have thought that in the land of pão na chapa - small baguettes toasted and slathered in salty butter to the joy of Cariocas for years - a bakery could open on a small Botafogo side-street and cause a complete baking revolution in the process? The Slow Bakery was a slow-burning hit that, once word had spread beyond locals keen to keep a lid on the best bread in the city, has blown up into a veritable bun fight for the goodies that emerge from the oven at 9am and 2pm. The sourdough is the king, the first of its kind to be sold in Rio and taken away in droves but also turned into delicious sandwiches served up in the laid-back café along with cakes, biscuits and excellent coffee, the emphasis always on seasonal local produce with the results all the better for it.

Address: Rua São Jõao Batista 93
Getting there: Metrô Botafogo
Contact: 0055 21 3563 8638; theslowbakery.com.br
Opening times: Tue, 11am-7pm; Wed-Fri, 9am-7pm; Sat, 9am-3pm
Cuisine: bakery
Price: Loaves from R$19.50
Payment type: credit cards accepted

Escola de Pão

A unique breakfast experience, only served at the weekends, is on offer at Escola de Pão, a French-style mother- and daughter-run bistro as famous for its artisanal breads as its name (School of Bread) would suggest. Tables are cobbled together, and generation-spanning families combine for a never-ending supply of freshly baked goods. There is no menu and no ordering, although anything can be requested again, which is useful when the scrambled eggs are so very good. A round of thin, mashed papaya with homemade granola and a yoghurt shake mixes things up nicely before the oven is opened to reveal tiny baguettes, mini hotdogs and exquisite savoury muffins. Don't miss the jabuticaba and goiaba jams. The bistro does open for dinner and Sunday lunch too, but I have to confess to only ever having been lured by the breakfasts, for which reserving is essential.

Address: Rua General Garzon 10, Lagoa
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Jardim Botânico
Contact: 00 55 21 2294 0027; escoladopao.com.br
Opening times: breakfast: Sat, Sun, 9am-1pm. Lunch: Sun, 1.30pm-3.30pm. Dinner: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight
Cuisine: Brazilian
Price: set-price breakfast R$89
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: essential

Guacamole

Like all good Mexican restaurants, Guacamole doesn’t take itself too seriously, hence the mariarchi band and ‘tequileros’ fuelling the fun on most evenings. But there is much more to the Jardim Botânico newcomer than an occasionally cringe-inducing stereotype. Naturally, the food covers all the classics, but it is head and shoulders above the rest of the city’s Mexican offerings, the spicy meat chilaquiles well worth a look and best taken with a gum-revealingly good michelada, and the shrimp fajitas are deeply satisfying. Bookings are recommended Mondays to Thursdays, but are not possible Fridays to Sundays, when you need to arrive early or wait in line.

Address: Rua Jardim Botânico 129, Jardim Botânico
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Maria Angélica
Contact: 00 55 21 3178 3100; guacamolemex.com.br
Opening times: daily, 6pm-last customer
Cuisine: Mexican
Price: dinner around R$95
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: recommended

La Bicyclette

In the space of just a few years, the French owner of La Bicyclette went from selling croissants from his kitchen window to running the most successful café in town, complete with the weekend queues to prove it. After a well-received first premises in Horto, the team won the rights to open up their second in the city’s Botanical Gardens, providing the perfect way to fuel up before taking in the palm-lined glory all around. Naturally, the croissants are oven fresh and the wholewheat breads are made entirely from local produce. At the weekends, an efficient waiting list leaves time to buy tickets to the gardens or browse the shop until a table is free.

Address: Rua Jardim Botânico 1008, Jardim Botânico
Getting there: Metrô Bus to Jardim Botânico
Contact: 00 55 21 3594 2589; labicyclette.com.br
Opening times: daily, 8.30am-7.30pm
Cuisine: French, quick bites
Price: brunch or light lunch around R$45
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Maya Café

In the heart of the pretty residential neighbourhood of Laranjeiras, Maya is the ideal refuge for a mid-morning pit-stop or early evening indulgence. The selection of home-baked treats is the stuff of local legend, the carrot cake first recommended to me, unprompted, in a shop some twenty minutes down the road. But there is also a good line in sandwiches, patés, bruschetta and wines, meaning the cosy café is just as likely to be filled with locals settling into a glass of prosecco at sunset as charging up with an early espresso. Saturday is market day on the surrounding roads, making for a great excuse to come and sample what’s on offer.

Address: Rua Ortiz Monteiro 15b, Laranjeiras
Getting there: taxi recommended (around R$35 from Copacabana)
Contact: 00 55 21 2205 4950; mayacafe.com.br
Opening times: Tue-Thu, 9am-9.30pm; Fri, Sat, 9am-10.30pm; Sun, 9am-9.30pm
Cuisine: french, Quick bites
Price: breakfast from R$25, lunch around R$40
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not necessary

Refeitório Orgânico

Vegetarians finally have a handful of restaurants to shout about in Rio de Janeiro, but few have proven to be as popular as the inexpensive and rustic Refeitório Orgânico. Diners are greeted by a Buddha water feature at the end of a nondescript Botafogo alleyway. By-the-menu types stay downstairs, while upstairs a vastly more interesting buffet of rich and varied delights awaits. The vegetarian sushi is remarkably good when beefed up with some strong wasabi and ginger, and the yakissoba and nutty mini-burgers are also excellent. A host of home-blended fruit juice combos help complete the healthy, yet undeniably filling, package.

Address: Rua Dezenove de Fevereiro 120, Botafogo
Getting there: Metrô Botafogo
Contact: 00 55 21 2537 0750; refeitorioorganico.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Sat, midday-4pm
Cuisine: Vegetarian, Brazilian, Asian, quick bites
Price: buffet lunch: Mon-Fri R$26.50; Sat R$36
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Sorvete Itália

Rio’s ice-cream parlours don’t hold back when it comes to cooling down the city. Leaving the beach hawkers to dish out their usual wares to the masses, Sorvete Itália’s 20 stores citywide conjure up seasonal specials in dozens of flavours alongside time-honoured classics. Caramelised banana and mango and ginger are among the most popular choices, while the tapioca is flecked with a satisyingly unusual, chewy texture. Don’t miss the açaí and guarana version for a refreshing twist on the juice-bar classic. All of the standard ‘creamy’ and ‘fruity’ flavours can be bought by the litre, and a tempting array of ever chocolatey tarts is also available. With three shops in Copacabana and three in Ipanema, it's reassuring to know you're never too far from a cooling cone.

Address: Rua Constante Ramos 44, Copacabana
Getting there: Metrô Cantagalo
Contact: 00 55 21 2256 6139; sorveteitalia.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 10am-9pm; Fri, Sat, 10am-11pm; Sun, 10am-10pm
Cuisine: Quick bites
Price: from R$7 a scoop
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: Not possible

TT Burger

Following on from his father Claude’s haute cuisine past, local chef Tomas Troisgros finally gets to add his own initials to a restaurant, and has single-handedly caused a burger sensation in Rio in the process. A great location between Copacabana and Ipanema hoovers up the post-beach crowd, drawn by the simplicity of the one-burger menu and few tables (which often means standing room only). The burger is, of course, excellent, and the homemade goiaba-based ‘ketchup’ best deployed liberally. Extended opening hours at the weekend satisfy the weary party people until 5am at the second branch on Leblon's Rua Ataulfo da Paiva. Wine is available, albeit served in plastic cups, and every Tuesday, Mr TT himself adds a surprise ingredient to proceedings.

Address: Rua Francisco Otaviano 67, Arpoador
Getting there: Metrô General Osório
Contact: 00 55 21 3217 5220; ttburger.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Thu, midday-midnight; Fri, Sat, midday-2am; Sun, midday-1am
Cuisine: American
Price: burgers R$42
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible

Momo Gelato

Rio's food fads are ever-changing, but artisanal ice-cream is one of the more enduring of the recent trends. Momo, on exclusive Rua Dias Ferreira, looks like a Scandinavian furniture showroom. The huge counter bulges with tempting flavours waiting to be coupled together, and the smart surroundings mean there is no reason not to take your time with such indulgence. Twelve varieties of chocolate alone will take some time to choose between, and little-known Amazonian fruits are also well covered. A nice line in inexpensive cooler bags and accessories is a nice touch, while the Sao Paulo coffee is excellent for cutting through the sweetness.

Address: Rua Dias Ferreira 147, Leblon
Getting there: Metrô Antero de Quental
Contact: 0055 21 2294 1965; momogelato.com.br
Opening times: daily, 11am-11pm
Cuisine: quick bites
Price: small pots from R$12
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Reservations: not possible