Nice getting there

Nice is a glorious, and playful, slice of urban greensward- bewitching at pretty much any time of year - This content is subject to copyright.
Nice is a glorious, and playful, slice of urban greensward- bewitching at pretty much any time of year - This content is subject to copyright.

Expert guide to Nice

  1. Overview
    Overview

    Overview

  2. Hotels
    Hotels

    Hotels

  3. Attractions
    Attractions

    Attractions

  4. Restaurants
    Restaurants

    Restaurants

  5. Nightlife
    Nightlife

    Nightlife

  6. Itinerary
    Itinerary

    Itinerary

Getting there

Flights

To Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport (00 33 489 88 98 28; en.nice.aeroport.fr) is served by British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) from Heathrow, Gatwick, London City, and from May 2017, Stansted. Aer Lingus (0871 718 5000; aerlingus.com) from Dublin year round;  Jet2 (0871 226 1737; jet2.com) from Leeds-Bradford (from March 24 2017) and Manchester (from March 24).

EasyJet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, Luton, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh and Stansted year-round, and from Belfast (from April 29) and Newcastle (from April 18). Monarch (08719 405040; monarch.co.uk) flies from Birmingham (from May 1) while Ryanair (0871 246 0000, ryanair.com) wings in from Stansted from March 24, from Dublin from July 1.

Colorful medieval town Menton on Riviera, Mediterranean sea, France - Credit: Boris Stroujko - Fotolia
Menton on Riviera is a colourful medieval town to the east of Nice Credit: Boris Stroujko - Fotolia

Finally, Norwegian (0843 3780 888; norwegian.com) flies year round, Gatwick to Nice - and is often the cheapest option.

Cannes city break guide

Transfers

From Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport (00 33 489 88 98 28; nice.airport.fr), a taxi to the city centre will cost you €23-€31 by day, depending on where you want dropping off, or €28-€33 between 6pm and 7am. There will be extra charges for a fourth person, and luggage.

If you wish to book a taxi ahead, telephone 00 33 493 13 78 78. The shuttle bus is cheaper (€6 one way – but the ticket is valid for the next 74 minutes on all Nice buses and trams), and easy as pie.

Jump on either the No 98 or No 99. One or the other leaves about every 30 minutes, serving both airport terminals. The 98 ends up bang in the city centre, the 99 at the main railway station. If you’re without children and much baggage, you could use the motor-cycle taxi service (00 33 648 246409; mototaxi-sophia.fr) from the airport to Nice centre. The fare is around €30.

Nice airport france - Credit: This content is subject to copyright./Marcel Jolibois
From Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport, take a taxi to the city centre; a shuttle bus or, if without children, a motor-cycle taxi service Credit: This content is subject to copyright./Marcel Jolibois

Cruises

Nice is served by two ports – the city’s own, and that of Villefranche-sur-Mer in one of the Med’s loveliest bays just round the corner. In Nice, ships tie up at the port, where tourist office staff will be waiting with information. It’s a pleasant 20-minute stroll to the old town and city centre. If that sounds too tiresome, taxis are available and, in high season, shuttle buses are laid on.

If Villefranche is your port, arriving in the bay is a glorious experience – enfolding mountains, sea, sun, sky and the little town nestling in among it all. This is a tender port, so the boat will anchor and you’ll be shuttled ashore. If time is tight, I’d settle for Villefranche itself. It’s a fine old Mediterranean seaside spot with ample sights and shopping to keep you occupied for a couple of hours – or more, if you want a decent lunch or dinner. If you’ve more than a couple of hours, head for Nice.

There are taxis at the port – though it’s almost as easy, and much cheaper, to get to Nice by bus (12 minutes; €1.50) or train (seven minutes; €1.60). The tourism office at the port will tell you where to catch them. Services are frequent throughout the day.

Search for a Telegraph cruise

The best hotels in Nice
The best hotels in Nice

Getting around

Walking

Nice centre is easily walkable. Indeed, if you’re doing the Old Town (Vieux Nice) it is only walkable. The streets are barely wide enough for a donkey, never mind a bus. But some things you’ll want to see – the Matisse Museum, the full length of the Promenade des Anglais – will involve a tidy amount of leg-work, which you may care to avoid. Fortunately, Nice has a first-class public transport system.

Buses and trams

For a place thick with billionaires, these are commendably cheap. And the (relatively) new tram system is an elegant delight, studded along its course with art-works. The price per journey - a Solo Ticket - rose in May 2013 by a hefty 50 per cent, but  it’s still only €1.50. This entitles you to 74 minutes’ travel (don’t ask), including one change. It’s operative not only on the full city network of buses and trams but also on buses throughout the Alpes-Maritimes département (county).

Tram on a street of Nice - French Riviera - Credit: Leonid Andronov
A tram in Nice Credit: Leonid Andronov

However, you can’t use the same ticket for a return journey, even if it’s within the 74 minutes. Wherever you’ve got to, you must buy a new ticket to come back. Nor may you use the €1.50 ticket on the Nos 98 and 99 shuttle buses to and from the airport.

Should you wish to go beyond Nice, buy a Ticket Azur - also €1.50 - and it's operative not only on the full city network of buses and trams but also on buses throughout the Alpes-Maritimes departement (county). If you are going to make lots of trips, or are in a big party, the 10-trip multi-ticket may be the best bet, at €10. Meanwhile, a one-day pass is €5, a seven-day pass €15.

Overall it’s a brilliant scheme. Not only is the Matisse Museum within €1.50’s range, but so are Cannes, Monaco and Antibes. Buy tickets at bus or tram stations, from bus drivers or the agencies at 3 Place Masséna and 29 Avenue Malaussena. Remember to validate tickets each time you get on a different tram or bus. Forget, and you’re in for a €29 fine. Details: 00 33 810 06 10 06; lignesdazur.com.

Cycling

Nice is excellent cycling and rollerblading terrain, especially along the long, long Promenade des Anglais. As soon as you arrive, you’ll notice that everyone is at it. You might like to join them.

You can hire bikes at Holiday Bikes (00 33 493 04 15 36; loca-bike.fr) at 6 Rue Massenet near the seafront, and bikes and blades from Roller Station (00 33 493 62 99 05; roller-station.fr) at 49 Quai des Etats-Unis – the extension of the Promenade des Anglais. A bike will cost from €14-€15 a day, rollers €8 a half-day, €9 a full day.

If that sounds a lot, try Nice’s own Vélo Bleu bikes (00 33 493 72 06 06; velobleu.org). There are 1,750 of them parked at some 175 stations about the city and surrounds. Right of access costs €1 a day. After that, the first 30 minutes hire are free; from 30 minutes to an hour you pay a further €1, and €2 for every subsequent hour. You may book online or simply show up at one of the bike stations with your banker’s card and mobile phone. Ring them on local number 04 3000 3001, give them your card number and they’ll ensure it it unlocks the bikes.

Don’t ignore, either, the possibilities of Segway travel. Segways are a bit like big pogo sticks, but with electric engines. You hop on and speed off and it’s a blast. They’re banned in public in Britain but certainly not in Nice.

An hour’s hire, and guided tour, is €30, two hours €50. Contact Segway Mobilboard at 2 Rue Halévy (04 93 80 21 27; mobilboard.com).

Villefranche-sur-Mer in the French Riviera, France - Credit: nito - Fotolia
Villefranche-sur-mer is just one of the areas accessible by train Credit: nito - Fotolia

Car hire

If you’re in Nice for a short city break, forget all about cars. In common with most big cities, Nice is a nightmare for driving, parking and anything else connected with private motorised transport. Being near Italy, it can also display a cavalier attitude to minor bumps and scratches, an attitude which your hire-car company may not share.

Even if you’re staying longer than a short break, I’d not bother with a car. As mentioned above, bus connections with almost the entire Côte d’Azur, not to mention the inland bits of the Alpes-Maritimes, are good and cheap. If you really insist, Nice airport has a full range of car-hire companies.

Trains

If you don’t fancy the bus, take the train – not much more expensive and one of the unsung joys of the region. The track hems the coast, allowing views you’d never get from a car. A train will also haul you up into the mountains behind, affording relaxation rather than the white knuckles associated with driving in these parts. In summer time, from June through September, consider buying the Zou Pass, which entitles you to unlimited travel on all trains in the Alpes Maritimes départment for one day for €15pp. Meanwhile, families might try the Carte Isabelle. This gets you unlimited travel on Côte-d’Azur trains for €35 for a family of up to four, including two children under 16. Three days for the family costs €80.