Who is Fort Worth’s ‘Mama Meatball’? Her sauce is inspiring comeback of this Italian joint

Gigi Howell wouldn’t be here without Margie’s Italian Garden.

It was where Howell’s whole family worked — way back in the day. Her aunt and uncle, but most importantly, it’s where her mom, Dorothy Jimeson Howell, and dad, Johnny Howell, met.

“My parents get married, had my sister and I, and we just spent every weekend going into Margie’s, and so much so we were around the family so much they were family to us.” Howell told the Star-Telegram.

This was her family’s business. When she had the chance to own a piece of it, she jumped at the opportunity.

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Howell is now the new proud owner of the abandoned 2,000-square-foot Italian restaurant on Camp Bowie. Renovations and menu changes are in the works, and they may have Margie rolling over in her grave. But in a good way.

Margie’s does not have much in competing eateries nearby. The restaurant is located in sleepy Westland. Across the street is a crummy boat shop and furniture store. The nearest is JD’s Hamburgers, which is also owned by Howell and business partner, Bourke Harvey.

“Once we were on the west side out there, mine and Bourke’s vision was always to kind of bring back Westland which is the area where Margie’s is. Once we got JD’s going, it just became a goal that we would try our hardest to get Margie’s.” Howell said.

As Howell says every time the topic of Margie’s eatery comes up: It’s family. She has an almost sacred belief that the new place must honor the legacy of the matron of Italian cuisine she knew so well.

“We’re taking it back to Margie’s Italian garden which is the way it was when it opened and it’s really to just kind of bring back what older people my age and older grew up knowing. It was such a warm and great feeling going in there because Margie treated everybody like family,” a beaming Howell said.

She would know best. She grew up with the original Margie.

How Gigi found out ‘Mama Meatball’ wasn’t her grandmother

Margie Walters and her mother founded Margie’s Italian Garden after they immigrated from Italy to Fort Worth in 1953. Margie was sometimes referred to as “Mama Meatball.” Not only did close friends and family called her that, but so did customers that loved her and her restaurant.

“I thought Margie was my grandmother until I was about 10, but then my dad had to tell me ‘She’s not your real grandmother. You’re not Italian either,” said Howell laughing.

Howell made a remark to Doyle Walters, Margie’s son, saying “Margie is probably rolling over in her grave wondering what the hell we are doing,” referring to the massive project of renovation they are taking on.

But Walters brushed it off, “No, Margie is sitting up, praising God with excitement,” he said.

Margie’s secret ingredient was made with love

With new chef, Garrett Ezelle, Howell is trying to recreate a menu as close to Margie’s original list as possible. Mama Meatball was known for her incredible meat sauce. Howell says the secret ingredient is simply being made with love.

“Obviously we’ll never be able to do it the way she did because she had her own way but we want to get as close as possible.” said Howell.

Menu items include lasagna, picattas, and pizzas. Just the way Margie would have wanted it.

There were a few touches at the old Margie’s place that Howell found memorable. The red and white checkered tablecloths will be honored with red and white checkered napkins. Of course, they will also be bringing back the classic red leather booths.

Outdoors, they are trying to keep as much originality as possible. Windows are painted with Italy and “1953” which Howell wants to try and keep.

When do you become family at Margie’s?

The restaurant was supposed to open in 2023. But delays in the city’s permitting process slowed things down quite a bit. There is much to do before they determine an opening date. As the Italians would say, Meglio tardi che mai, better late than never!

When they do open, Howell wants “you to feel like you’re coming into our home and we’re serving you.”

While Howell is reopening the Italian Garden to honor Margie, this is now Gigi’s place.

“It’s such a good feeling to come home at the end of the night and know that you know somebody came in on their birthday at your restaurant and it was special for them or they just brought their mom there for the first time,” she said.

Margie’s Italian Garden is located on 9805 Camp Bowie West Blvd. To get updates about Margie’s you can visit JD Hamburger’s Facebook page or sign up for Margie’s mailing list.