It’s been just over six months since Hurricanes Irma and Maria plowed through Puerto Rico—and while the vibrant capital city of San Juan is still working to rebuild, it’s doing so at an impressive rate. Carla Campos, executive director of the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, says that right now the biggest challenge is the perception of where the island stands from a tourism perspective. “Naturally, having two back-to-back storms of that strength caused damage, but that was over six months ago, and as an industry, the public and private sectors have been working tirelessly to be where we are today—and the tourism sector has progressed significantly. The Island has been officially open since last December, and has made a great comeback in a short period of time.”

Upon our visit in March, the message was clear: Puerto Rico is open for business—namely tourism, which accounts for more than 10 percent of the GDP.

Currently, 4,000-plus restaurants are operating, with more than 1,885 in the Condado, Old San Juan, and Santurce areas. There are 130 hotels accepting guests, along with hundreds of Airbnb and paradores listings. 2018 ushered in the first new property to open in San Juan since the hurricane: the Serafina Beach Hotel, located in the Condado District. Even more impressive, the island is adding 25 percent (that’s 3,800) more rooms to its existing inventory—with new hotels including JW Marriott, ALOFT San Juan Convention Center, ALOFT Ponce, and Four Seasons Cayo Largo—that represent a $1.9 billion investment in new development. Add to that, shops are bustling, piña coladas are churning in the frozen drink machines, and destination weddings are being held without any major hiccups.

The finest feature of San Juan is that you can easily traverse the city in a long weekend, and soak in so much in your quick jaunt: historic forts, beautiful beaches, exquisite dining, and nightlife until the wee hours if you’re so inclined. Peter Hopgood, VP of International Hospitality Enterprises, says, “Except for cruise days in Old San Juan, you won’t be running into crowds of tourists. You will be able to enjoy the beaches, natural wonders, and unique gastronomical experiences—mostly with locals, since we currently do not have the typical volume of leisure travelers.”

And for those who appreciate smart design, San Juan is swimming in eye candy. The colorful buildings in Old San Juan, studded with balconies; the Spanish Revival architecture at the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel; and the leafy courtyards tucked into hidden corners all exude a certain magical charm. Hopgood adds, "As fellow Puerto Rican [composer and playwright] Lin-Manuel Miranda recently said, ’The best way to support the island is by going to visit it.'"

STAY

Hopgood says that hotels have experienced various stages of progress over the past six months. “The first stage consisted of military personnel and first responders to assist with the immediate devastation and to supply necessities. The second wave consisted of private and public power authorities that came from the U.S. to restore power.” He says that they’re finally now in the third stage. “We are experiencing a bounce-back in the leisure segment, with groups coming back.”

Hotel El Convento, a former convent built in the 1600s, is a lovely choice for accommodations in Old San Juan. There’s a verdant courtyard for drinks and dinner and a small rooftop pool; the rooms are stately, with checkered floors and balconies overlooking Old San Juan.

El Convento's sister property, Condado Vanderbilt Hotel, is a finely restored luxury hotel perched above the Atlantic in the hip Condado neighborhood. It was built in 1919, but it still feels quite modern: Guests can lounge at the beautiful pools and beach by day, then explore the surrounding nightlife come sundown. The hotel has a very handsome bar, too, with a gorgeous mural, plush sofas, and a grand piano.

The Gallery Inn is the ideal spot for the artistically minded to stay in San Juan. Here, you’ll find a dedicated music room, an impressive art collection, and a dazzling swimming pool. Alternatively, Olive Boutique Hotel is a 15-room property with a unique rustic vibe. Provincial-style furniture, creamy neutrals, and rich wooden fixtures accent rooms that are decked out with glass showers; the property also boasts a Spanish-tiled private terrace and an outdoor dining area. Guests can also enjoy a private rooftop bar, restaurant, and petite pool.

EAT & DRINK

Marmalade (from chef Peter Schintler), one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants, relies heavily on organic produce from local farms. After Hurricane Maria’s devastating and costly setback, the place is back up and running, serving inventive and fresh cuisine alongside tasty cocktails.

Tucked inside the grand Condado Vanderbilt Hotel is 1919, the high-end dining concept helmed by chef Juan Jose Cuevas of Arkelare, Lespinasse, and Blue Hill fame. Guests dine with floor-to-ceiling views of the Atlantic Ocean.

Perla feels as if it was designed for a movie set. Located alongside the La Concha hotel, the signature shell is surrounded by a reflecting pool and decorated with eight hand-blown Murano glass lamps that illuminate the ceiling. Hopgood says that La Concha sustained water damage due to rain slipping through the cracks at 140 miles per hour—yet it was repaired within 14 days. He says, “We are grateful to the original architects, Osvaldo Toro and Miguel Ferrer, who in 1958, built a hotel that would endure the strongest storm Puerto Rico has ever seen.”

You can’t talk to any cool Puerto Rican without hearing praise for La Factoria, a worn-looking speakeasy that’s morphed into a maze of bars. Even if you're tempted by the sophisticated cocktail menu, don’t stop in the first room you see.

See & Do

Even if you're not a history buff, a quick spin around the Castillo San Felipe del Morro is impressive: The 16th-century citadel offers dramatic ocean views, and its central location at the northern tip of Old San Juan makes it easy to reach on foot. Castillo San Cristobal is located at the eastern gate to the walled city of Old San Juan and—at 27 acres—it’s the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World. Tours have resumed since the hurricane.

Among the tourist-choked shops of Old San Juan there a few fantastic boutiques—if you know where to look. Blink and you’ll miss it: Olé is one of those gems—a family-owned store where you can purchase a beautiful custom hat crafted on the spot. You can also find a smattering of local art, shoes, and a basket of $1 baseball cards.

The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico is often touted as the finest collection of modern and contemporary art in the Caribbean. Housed in a neoclassical building that was formerly the Municipal Hospital, the museum is home to an extensive collection spanning 24 exhibition galleries, along with a theater and a splendid sculpture garden.

And then, of course, there’s the beach: Ask a local where to go and they’ll want to know what you’re looking for—there seems to be a beach to match every occasion in Puerto Rico. Case in point: Go to Condado Beach for cocktail-sipping and mingling; sunbathe at Ocean Park Beach; and if you're traveling with family, head to Isla Verde beach for the gentle waves and warm waters. Just east is the incredibly impressive Vieques Island, known for the enchanting Bioluminescent Bay, a worthwhile side trip.