Glazed lamb chops and white peaches: what top chefs put on the barbecue
At their much-loved restaurants in London, chefs Selin Kiazim, Jose Pizarro and Neil Rankin have each made a name for themselves by coaxing heat, smoke and flames from charcoal grills and open wood pits, and producing dishes that have their guests clamouring for one more fire-blackened forkful. Who better, then, to invite round for a barbecue?
Kiazim’s Turkish menu is a taste of what she serves at Oklava - molasses-rich marinades and spice blends elevating humble carrots and lamb chops into the stars of an exotic feast. Even figs, to finish, can be done on the grill.
For a Spanish line-up inspired by his eponymous restaurants, Pizarro starts with sardines, which need little more than oil and lemon after a stint on a barbecue hot plate. His quail dish, left to marinate overnight, is cooked just as simply on the heat, teamed with Catalan-style spinach.
And fresh from opening Temper City, Rankin plates up red-curry duck and grilled prawns - with sweet charred peaches to end the meal.
Selin Kiazim
Chef director at Oklava
Glazed carrots with whipped feta and hazelnut dukkah
Date-molasses chops, mint crumb and yogurt sauce
Rice pudding labne, grilled figs and ginger syrup
Glazed carrots with whipped feta and hazelnut dukkah
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
For the carrots
85g demerara sugar
100g unsalted butter
1 cardamom pod, crushed
1 star anise
8 carrots, peeled
For the whipped feta
300g feta
150ml double cream
For the hazelnut dukkah
50g toasted hazelnuts, crushed
10g sesame seeds, toasted
½ tsp ground coriander
⅛ tsp ground cumin
To serve
2 spring onions, finely sliced on the angle, soaked in ice-cold water
4-6 sprigs of coriander
METHOD
Prepare your barbecue.
In a large shallow saucepan bring the sugar, butter, cardamom, star anise and 250ml water to the boil and reduce down to a thin syrup-like consistency.
Add the carrots and turn the heat down to medium (they should lie in a single layer – if not, do this in two batches). Cook on one side for four to five minutes then turn them over and do the same on the other side.
Poke the carrots with a skewer or tip of a knife to see if they are tender – if not cook them a little longer. Lift the carrots out of the glaze and reserve the glaze.
In a food processor blend the feta and double cream until smooth. Combine the dukkah ingredients in a small bowl. Season to taste.
Once the coals are ready, season the carrots and char them all over on the hot grill then set back in the glaze.
Smear the whipped feta on a plate. Pile up the carrots and scatter with the dukkah, drained spring onions and coriander.
Date-molasses chops, mint crumb and yogurt sauce
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
For the mint crumb
1 banana shallot, diced
1 tbsp sunflower oil
80g unsalted butter
1½ tbsp lilliput capers, rinsed
100g panko breadcrumbs
1 tbsp dried mint
For the yogurt sauce
2 banana shallots, diced
1½ tbsp sunflower oil
2 cloves garlic, finely grated
1 tbsp thyme leaves
50ml white wine
200ml double cream
100g thick yogurt
For the lamb
8 middle-neck lamb chops/cutlets
100ml date molasses
8 leaves fresh mint, finely shredded
Flaky sea salt
METHOD
Prepare your barbecue.
To make the mint crumb start by gently caramelising the shallot in a large frying pan with the oil and butter. Once golden brown, add the capers and cook for another minute or so. Then add the breadcrumbs, stirring occasionally and cooking until the breadcrumbs are golden.
Turn the heat off, add the dried mint and season. Drain on kitchen paper to soak up any excess grease.
For the yogurt sauce, gently caramelise the shallots in the oil in a saucepan. Add the garlic and thyme and cook for two minutes.
Add the wine and reduce by half. Then add the double cream and reduce by half again. Take off the heat, stir in the yogurt and blitz until smooth. Season to taste. Keep the sauce warm – if you need to reheat it before serving, do so gently; don’t let it boil.
Once the barbecue coals are ready, season the chops with salt and place them directly on the grill. Cook to your liking – I recommend slightly pink so, depending on the size of your chops, two to four minutes on each side. Once cooked place on a tray to rest and pour over the date molasses to coat.
To serve, place the chops back on the grill to caramelise them on both sides, then plate up with the yogurt sauce and scatter with the mint crumb, shredded mint leaves and a bit of sea salt.
Rice pudding labne, grilled figs and ginger syrup
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
For the rice pudding labne
700ml whole milk
50g caster sugar
1 cinnamon quill
1 star anise
2 cloves
75g arborio rice
200g thick yogurt
1 tbsp Maldon salt
For the ginger syrup
150ml water
75g caster sugar
10g fresh ginger, peeled and grated
½ ball stem ginger, diced
To serve
8 black figs
Sunflower oil, for rubbing
100g shelled pistachios, toasted and roughly crushed
METHOD
Place the milk, sugar and spices in a pan and bring to just below boiling point. Turn the heat off, cover with clingfilm and leave for 30 to 45 minutes to infuse.
Strain the milk and return it to the pan. Add the rice. Cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally until the rice has softened and the mix has thickened. Pour onto a tray to cool then set in the fridge for a few hours.
Combine with the yogurt and salt. Place in muslin or a clean j cloth and tie the corners together at the top. Set in a sieve set over a bowl and leave in the fridge, ideally overnight, to drain.
Prepare your barbecue.
For the syrup, bring the water, sugar and fresh ginger to the boil in a small saucepan then turn down to a simmer and reduce to a thin syrup consistency. Strain then add the diced stem ginger and leave to cool.
Cut a criss-cross slice two thirds of the way down each fig. Once the barbecue coals are hot, rub a little sunflower oil over the figs and place them directly on the grill bars. Cook on all sides until a little charred and the juices start seeping.
To serve, place a dollop of the labne into a small serving bowl, place two warm figs on top, drizzle over the syrup and scatter with pistachios.
José Pizarro
Chef owner of José Tapas Bar and Pizarro Restaurant
Griddled marinated quail with pickled shallots
Sardines a la plancha
Catalan spinach
Griddled marinated quail with pickled shallots
SERVES
6
INGREDIENTS
For the quail
6 quail, spatchcocked
Juice of 2 lemons
1 banana shallot, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4-5 sprigs thyme
Olive oil
For the shallots
75ml cider vinegar
75ml raspberry vinegar
50g caster sugar
6 black peppercorns
4 banana shallots, finely sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil
METHOD
Put the quail in a large dish. Mix the lemon juice with the shallot, garlic, thyme and a good amount of olive oil. Pour over the quail and marinate overnight.
The next day heat the vinegars with the sugar and peppercorns until the sugar has dissolved. Pour the hot vinegar over the shallots and set aside.
Heat a barbecue. Once hot, remove the quail from the marinade and grill for 15 minutes, turning, until cooked. Set aside to rest.
Drain the shallots, season with a little salt and pepper and add some extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with the griddled quail.
Sardines a la plancha
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
16-20 really fresh sardines
Olive oil, for brushing
Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle
Flaky sea salt
Lemon wedges to serve
METHOD
Rinse the sardines under cold water. Pat dry, season and brush with oil.
Heat a plancha or griddle pan on the barbecue and cook the sardines for a couple of minutes, turning once, until charred and just cooked through.
Serve with a drizzle of oil, scattering of salt, squeeze of lemon and a crusty loaf.
Catalan spinach
In Catalunya they like to cook the spinach so that it’s completely collapsed and wilted, whereas I prefer it fresh and tossed only briefly in the hot oil. As there is quite a lot of spinach, you can cook it in two goes.
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small banana shallot, finely diced
35g pine nuts
35g golden raisins
300g baby spinach leaves
METHOD
Heat the olive oil in a large wok over your grill. Add the shallot, pine nuts and raisins and cook until the nuts are golden.
Add the spinach briefly, tossing the leaves in (the idea is just to warm the spinach through). Be careful not to overcook it. Take off the heat, season, and serve.
Neil Rankin
Chef owner of temper Soho and temper City
Red curry duck
Grilled prawns with tahini and chermoula
Grilled white peaches with Sichuan pepper and mint
Red curry duck
SERVES
4
INGREDIENTS
For the red-curry paste
1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted
1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted
50g fish sauce
50g Korean red pepper powder (or dried chillies)
25g ginger paste
25g garlic paste
50g lime juice
1 lemongrass, finally minced
For the duck
1 whole duck
4 tbsp mayonnaise
1 Romaine lettuce
1 red radicchio
2 green chillies, sliced
small bunch dill
small bunch coriander
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 120C/Gas ½.
To make the paste, grind the toasted seeds to a powder then blend with the other ingredients.
Season the duck and set in a roasting tin. Slow-cook the duck for at least 1 hour 30 minutes, then remove the legs and cook them for another 30 to 45 minutes, setting the crown aside to cool.
Mix four tablespoons of the spice paste with the mayonnaise. Select and separate the good leaves from the lettuce and radicchio.
On the barbecue, get your grill hot and place the duck on it to finish it off and get some good colour on it – about five to eight minutes – then joint it into eight pieces.
Plate up the lettuce and radicchio leaves and set the duck pieces on top.
Cover the duck in the spiced mayonnaise and scatter with the sliced chilli. Finish with some torn herbs.
Grilled prawns with tahini and chermoula
SERVES
4-6
INGREDIENTS
For the chermoula sauce
50g coriander, leaves and stalks
50g mint leaves
50ml lime juice
½ preserved lemon
50g peeled garlic
1 tsp toasted, ground cumin seeds
For the tahini sauce
25g tahini paste
25g peeled garlic cloves
100g Greek yogurt
25ml lemon juice
1 tbsp runny honey
50ml olive oil
For the prawns
10 shell-on prawns
1 large lemon
2 tsp sumac
2 tsp zatar
1 bunch dill, chopped
METHOD
Blend the ingredients for the chermoula until combined and thick, then season. Do the same with the tahini sauce ingredients, then season.
Over a hot heat, grill the prawns in their shells for about five minutes on each side. Halve the lemon and grill them cut-side down for about five minutes.
To serve, sweep some of the chermoula and some of the tahini sauce on a large plate and set the prawns on top. Squeeze over the charred lemon juice, season, then scatter with the spices and dill.
Grilled white peaches with Sichuan pepper and mint
SERVES
8
INGREDIENTS
8 white peaches
2 tsp sichuan peppercorns, ground
2 tsp Maldon salt
2 tsp light brown sugar
4 tbsp olive oil
2 limes
1 bunch of mint, leaves roughly chopped
METHOD
Halve the peaches and remove their stones.
Get your grill medium-hot and place the peaches cut-side down on it until the flesh is charred and soft.
Mix the ground peppercorns with the salt and sugar.
Take the peaches off the grill (cutting them into wedges if you like) and toss them in the olive oil then sprinkle with the pepper seasoning.
Finish with a good squeeze of lime juice and the roughly chopped mint.