Clean is a word that’s inescapable lately—clean eating, clean design. Chalk it up to a collective craving for order in a world that’s otherwise cluttered and chaotic. But tonight on the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC runway, designer Raf Simons appeared to be conjuring a different sort of clean: as in fresh wet heads—from the shower or the sea, if the Jaws tank tops were a clue—that left water-logged rings around the collars. Anyone caught in the New York rain over the last few days surely nodded in recognition.
Only this being Raf—and this being Guido, the hairstylist masterminding the look, who tends to prefer things just a little bit “off”—there were layers to unpack, from top to toe. In matters of hair, that meant an unlikely pairing of dry scalps and sopping ends (as if the Steve Zissou–esque knit beanies worn by some models played a protective role backstage). And from the neck down, that meant a mashup of ladylike floral day dresses, oversize dad blazers, and leather one-pieces masquerading as wetsuits. If the goggles in hand invited a swim, the fringed red necklaces—slung over the shoulders or looped diagonally across the body—evoked a Spielberg shark encounter gone awry.
The runway was a feeding frenzy—for Instagram bait, that is—which suggests that the Calvin Klein aquatic theme could find its sea legs as far as beauty is concerned. Consider it an open invitation to ease off the hot tools and embrace air-dried ends—warm weather permitting. Paired with a little humidity-smudged taupe eye shadow (courtesy of Pat McGrath tonight), the look hints at the slowed-down pace of your last beach trip, mixed with the back-to-work rush out of the shower. The result? So fresh and so clean.
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