Dave Sutor T-D reporter met with enthusiasm, curiosity in Vietnam

Mar. 23—HANOI, Vietnam — When Tom Caulfield, the founder of Veteran Community Initiatives, who served in the Vietnam War, and I got together for an interview about three weeks ago, he asked me, as he often does, if I had any interesting trips coming up.

I responded with something along the lines that it was a secret for now and I'd tell him when I got back.

My plans were to begin traveling to Vietnam two days later.

Knowing Tom, who is one of the best people I have met while working as a reporter for The Tribune-Democrat for more than a decade, there was no reason at all to think he would view me going to the country in a negative way.

But at that moment, and actually for a few days before our meeting, I was cognizant of what the words, "I'm going to Vietnam," or, "I'm leaving for Vietnam," or, "I'm heading out to Vietnam," meant to another generation.

Whether drafted or volunteered, when young Americans went there in the 1960s and 1970s, they entered hell — bullets, bombs, Agent Orange, trip wires, death — only to return to a nation where many of their fellow citizens demonized them. Some of them still bear the mental and physical scars of those experiences today.

Me? I booked a flight and hotel on Expedia.

I had a few plans in mind — a boat tour of Ha Long Bay, eating lunch where President Barack Obama and professional traveler Anthony Bourdain dined on bun cha together, seeing the water puppet show, and standing inches away from a rushing locomotive on the narrow Train Street.

Otherwise, it was going to be days of wanderlust walking through the streets of Hanoi.

But there was uncertainty in my mind about how I would be received as an American.

----I wanted to learn something about the Vietnamese perspective regarding the war. So along the way, I stopped by the John McCain Memorial that recognizes the former United States senator and presidential candidate.

The inscription reads (approximate translation): "On 26 October 1967 near Truc Bach Lake, citizens and military of the capital Hanoi captured US Navy Air Forces pilot Major (sic) John Sidney McCain, who was flying an A-4 aircraft that crashed near Yen Phu power station. This was one of ten aircraft shot down that day."

The figure is down on his knees with arms raised in surrender.

I couldn't understand why Vietnam would create a monument commemorating McCain's capture specifically. McCain couldn't, either.

"Why they erected it and what significance it has to them, I have never really quite figured out," he laughingly told C-SPAN in 1992.

On the same day, I visited the Hoa Lo Prison Relic, a museum at a site that was known to Americans as the "Hanoi Hilton" where POWs were held.

Information was presented about the prisoners purportedly spending time participating in athletics, writing home, receiving medical care and holding holiday gatherings.

Displays showed how some American service members have since visited Vietnam and played a role in developing relations between the countries.

Other harsh and tragic aspects of what life was like for the POWs are not mentioned, at least from what I saw.

There is also a gift shop inside and a colorful exterior with flags and other decorations.

I never actually talked to anybody about the war during my travels, though, mainly because conversational English was rare among the people I met. And I don't believe I interacted with anybody who was old enough to even have fought in the war.

----However, I did meet a guy named Trung and some of his family members.

Prior to my arrival, I contacted my hotel and asked if I could get information about how to buy a ticket for a futbol — also known as "soccer" — match between Viettel ("The Cong") and CAHN, two Hanoi clubs. The owner informed me that her husband, Trung, had an extra ticket and would like to invite me.

The two of us, along with his brother-in-law and two children, met for food and drinks beforehand.

One boy, who if I recall correctly was in the sixth grade, said his father let him put off studying for the next day's history test until later in the night because he felt it would be a good experience for him to meet an American and practice his English.

He was inquisitive, asking about what my hometown was like, what kind of a car I drive, why I came to Vietnam, what my favorite futbol team was, what I did for work.

I asked about their lives with equal interest.

Eventually, I was told that I surprised them because they did not expect an American to use chopsticks, eat the local foods, drink beer or want to watch a futbol match.

I can't speak about all the geopolitical relations between the United States and Vietnam or how the war is perceived by those who fought in it. I never had those conversations. But I do know that when sitting down together at dinner with one particular family, I was not a person from an enemy land. My presence was met with enthusiasm and curiosity. I was warmly welcomed. — It has been a privilege covering the local veteran community for years.

There is always an open seat for me at the table during their celebrations.

And they talk to me about the trials, too, such as dealing with PTSD, their memories of being vilified when they returned from Vietnam and the end-of-life challenges many of them now face in their 70s, 80s and 90s.

Many have provided me with a personal context to better understand historic events.

They will once again get together Friday for a Vietnam Era Veterans Recognition Day ceremony at 1st Summit Arena @ Cambria County War Memorial in downtown Johnstown, an event sponsored by VCI, Conemaugh Valley Veterans, Vietnam Veterans of America Chapter 364 and Disabled American Veterans Johnstown Chapter 2.

I plan to cover it.

Tom will be there, too.

So, before I see you there, Tom, I wanted to let you know I just went to Vietnam.