Is car wash wax a good alternative in the winter for my vehicle? | Car Doctor
Q: I can't wax my car in winter, since I don't have a heated garage. Is car wash wax a good alternative, or is it simply better than nothing?
A: There is nothing like a good hand-applied wax; it could be pasting wax, liquid or even a spray wax.
Spray wax at a car wash does provide a little protection for the paint and adds a bit of a shine. It also tends to rejuvenate any remaining wax. The downside of spray wax is that you are also applying wax to the windows.
If you opt for spray wax at the car wash, in my opinion, it is always a good idea to clean the windows with a quality window cleaner to prevent haze and glare.
Should I invest $7,500 to treat rust on 2012 Toyota FJ Cruiser?
Q: I have a 2012 4WD automatic Toyota FJ Cruiser with 190,000 miles on it. The vehicle is in good condition, has received regular recommended maintenance and oil changes, and, other than the replacement of parts due to normal wear and tear, has been amazingly trouble-free and is a great vehicle.
The FJ’s frame and rear axle have rust on them. I received a quote of $7,500 to sandblast, replace and patch rusted components and undercoat the frame and rear axle.
The company that provided the quote said that the frame was not too far gone, so it was a good candidate for treatment, and that I could expect the treatment to add another 10 years to the life of the frame.
I have read that it is not uncommon to get 250,000 to 300,000 miles out of an FJ engine. Based on my average annual mileage, it would give me another three to five years with my FJ.
I am trying to determine whether the rest of the FJ’s more costly components are likely to last another three to five years – long enough to justify the not-insignificant cost of the frame-work/undercoating. Any insights you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
A: The engine on the Toyota FJ has been solid, although a few have suffered from timing chain issues due to a tensioner problem and exhaust manifold studs breaking.
As with any 12-year-old vehicle, it would not be unusual to see issues with electronics, air conditioning, suspension or transmission.
Can you drive your FJ another 60,000 to 100,000 miles without major repairs? It is a gamble. The FJ is a unique vehicle. Looking online, even with 200,000 miles, they are selling for $16,000 to $20,000.
If, after a thorough mechanical inspection, the vehicle looks solid, then $7,500 may be a worthwhile investment if you enjoy the truck.
Why do some cars but not all require pressing brake pedal to start?
Q: When starting my 2021 Toyota Corolla with a key (no push button), I do not have to press and hold the brake pedal. Most cars I know require this to start the car. I do have to press and hold the brake pedal to shift out of park. Is this the way it is supposed to work?
A: Some cars require stepping on the brake pedal to start, while others do not. In our household, as an example, two cars require stepping on the brake, but one does not. Your Toyota owner’s manual states to firmly press on the brake before turning the key to start the car.
What is interesting is that, when looking at the wiring diagram for this circuit, the brake light switch is not part of the starting system. I suspect Toyota’s legal team may have crafted the language for the owner’s manual, since for safety purposes it makes sense to keep your foot on the brake when starting any vehicle.
What will it cost to replace front headlight on 2008 Altima?
Q: How much does it usually cost for a front headlight to be fixed in a 2008 Nissan Altima?
A: In 2008 the Altima could come with standard halogen bulbs and brighter/whiter Zenon bulbs. A quality halogen bulb is $20 to $30 and the Zenon bulb is $275 to $300. Labor to install the bulb is about an hour. Labor rates can vary. Lately, I have seen labor rates from $135 to $265 per hour.
What is a safe PSI for tires to reach after driving?
Q: I recently went to have my tires filled. My 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe tells me about the pressure for each tire. The decal on the door says they should be filled to 35 PSI when cold.
I brought it to a tire place after driving 7 miles, which I informed the tech. The tech filled them to between 35.5 and 36. When I was driving a greater distance, the PSI quickly went up to 38 PSI. I was concerned the PSI would keep going up, possibly to a dangerous level. What is a safe PSI that the tires should reach after driving?
A: Tires should be checked and filled when they are cold. It is not usual and quite normal to see some pressure increase on the properly inflated tire. The issue is more on an underinflated tire.
Underinflated tires are more prone to blowouts. The other odd thing about underinflated tires is when the tire is low and then driven at high speeds, the heat and pressure can increase due to the friction of the moving molecules of air.
Continue what you are doing: Check the tires when they are cool, inflate them to the recommendation on the tire placard on the driver’s door and check the pressure once per month.
John Paul is the AAA Northeast Car Doctor. He has more than 40 years of experience in the automobile industry and is an ASE-Certified Master Technician. Write to John Paul, The Car Doctor, at 110 Royal Little Drive, Providence, RI 02904. Or email jpaul@aaanortheast.com and put “Car Doctor” in the subject field. Follow him on Twitter @johnfpaul or on Facebook.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Is car wash wax a good alternative in the winter? Car Doctor
