Camouflage meets velvet at Christopher Kane show

LONDON (AP) — Camouflage has suddenly become stylish. So have big fox fur stoles, velvet and feather trim.

Designer Christopher Kane seems to have the Midas touch: Within minutes of his diverse autumn collection being presented at London Fashion Week on Monday, the fashion world was abuzz with curiosity and admiration for his creations.

Kane has been one of the most closely watched London designers in recent years, and his growing influence on the international fashion scene was confirmed last month, when luxury conglomerate PPR bought a 51-percent stake in the label. The conglomerate's other labels include Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.

The designer, who was born in Scotland, opened his show with oversized, boxy and buckled army coats, then moved on to develop the military theme with muted blue and grey camouflage prints on kilts and silky separates.

Off-shoulder dresses with big fur trims came next, and then it was a riot of different themes and looks: Short, sexy dresses in crochet, tight velvet numbers held together with crochet panels or adorned with ruffle-like feather trims.

Afterwards there were pieces with dark 3D flowers — which appeared to be made of feathers — on mesh dresses, and pieces with organza patchwork. The diverse looks were held together by a wintry palette of deep burgundy and navy.

The finale consisted of a series of sparkly party dresses embellished with wiry orange, green and cobalt tinsel-like material.

The show was attended by Donatella Versace and American Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

Kane's catwalk will be followed later Monday by showcases by Erdem, Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford.