36 Hours In...Bangkok
Expert guide to Bangkok
Overview Overview
Hotels Hotels
Attractions Attractions
Restaurants Restaurants
Nightlife Nightlife
Itinerary Itinerary
An insider's guide to the best things to do in Bangkok. A heady mix of palaces and temples, mesmerising cuisine and vibrant street life reward the visitor to this extraordinary city. By Tom Vater, Telegraph Travel's Bangkok expert.
Why go now?
The Thai capital was the world’s most visited city in 2016. So why would you want to join the throng? The city offers many compelling reasons, way beyond the stereotype of an exotic nightlife and budget hostels on the Khao San Road.
There is the year-round sunshine, the fascinating palaces and temples, as well as some of Asia’s best food. Then there are the countless markets day and night, as well as the unreserved friendliness of the locals. The crowds, traffic and pollution can seem daunting at first, but this tropical metropolis of 11 million people is both reasonably safe and surprisingly navigable, making it an urban cornucopia of smells, tastes, sounds and sights you are unlikely to forget.
While military rule has a detrimental effect on the city’s cultural life – freedom of expression is seriously stifled – visitors will barely notice that the country is run by the men in green.
Getting there
International flights arrive at Suvarnabhumi International Airport (0066 2 7230000; suvarnabhumiairport.com), about 20 miles to the east of the city. Three airlines fly directly to Bangkok from London, including British Airways.
Where to stay
Special treat
Those who wish to experience Bangkok in regal splendour should try The Sukhothai Bangkok (1), which has old-world charm, an excellent choice of restaurants and a great location. Double rooms from £145.
Read full expert review and check availability: The Sukhothai Bangkok
Mid-range
The Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok feels just right among sky trains, high rises and gigantic malls – smart, very cosmopolitan, but informal. It also has a superb downtown location near some of the city’s best shops and restaurants. Double rooms from £81.
Read full expert review and check availability: Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok
On a budget
The smart, quiet Luxx XL is in the upmarket Lang Suan area near the British Embassy, with large, simple rooms. Double rooms from £37.
Read full expert review and check availability: Luxx XL, Bangkok
On arrival
4pm
Bangkok is at its most picturesque along the banks of the Chao Praya River. Catch a ride on the Chao Praya Express Boat river ferry (60p) to Tha Thien pier. Visit one of Bangkok’s most popular temples, Wat Po, and its famous reclining Buddha. Traditional massages in the temple are highly recommended.
6pm
Take a stroll through the market lanes around the temple before heading to the Aroon Residence, a great location to enjoy the spectacular sunset over Wat Aroon, located just across the river. Mains from 500-750 baht (£11.40 to £17).
7.30pm
Head down river to Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut). On its eastern side, a sprawling night market is lively until around midnight (except Wednesdays), with interesting clothes, fashion accessories and great street food. The nearby flower market on Chak Phet Road comes to life after dark and blooms into the small hours.
Day one
10am
Start the day at Wat Pra Kaew, the temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace Complex (8.30am to 3.30pm; admission 500 baht/£11.40). The temple offers intricate murals featuring depictions of the Ramakien, the kingdom’s interpretation of the Ramayana, one of the great Hindu epics. The palace, designed by British architects, is a mix of Thai and Italian building styles.
12pm
Included in the ticket to the Grand Palace is admission to the Dusit Palace Park. The main attraction here is the elegant Vimarnmaek Teak Mansion (9.30am to 3pm), the world’s largest teak building. It’s a short taxi ride between the two palaces.
1.30pm
Time for a traditional Thai lunch. Take a taxi south to Harmonique (22 Charoen Krung Road, Soi 34), which serves excellent Thai cuisine in a rambling wooden house close to the river. Mains from 500-750 baht (£11-£17).
Otherwise, head to Chinatown, where countless restaurants sell delicacies such as crocodile steaks and bird’s nest soup, as well as more conventional Chinese fare.
2.30pm
Take a stroll into the heart of Chinatown, along Yaowarat Road. Look out for Trok Itsaranuphap, a narrow lane off the main road, crammed with shops selling a vast selection of Chinese delicacies, cooked and uncooked. Don’t miss Wat Traimit (9am to 5pm; admission 40 baht (90p), which houses the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. The adjacent temple museum (£2.30) recounts the life story of the Buddha.
5pm
From Wat Traimit, it’s just a short walk to the historic Hua Lamphong Railway Station. Catch a train from the adjacent underground MRT (Mass Rapid Transit System) station to Sukhumvit Station and change on to the BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System) sky train for Sala Daeng. It’s a 15-minute walk up Silom Road to the impressively colourful Hindu Mahariamman Temple.
6pm
Indulge in a sumptuous, hip Thai dinner nearby at the Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7). Mains from 500 baht (£11).
8pm
For some, no visit to Bangkok would be complete without a wander into one of the city’s infamous red light areas. Patpong is lined with Go-Go bars and venues with bands playing pop and rock standards, embracing a lively night market known for cheap clothes, souvenirs and counterfeit watches. An altogether different, less seedy ambience can be found over on Soi 4, a lively lane lined with bars, clubs, a British-style pub and plenty of outdoor seating.
Day two
10am
The Jim Thompson House (9am to 5pm; 150 baht (£3.40), under 22 50 baht (£2.30), located in a beautiful garden, contains the personal baubles and furniture of one of Bangkok’s most enigmatic foreign residents. The illustrious owner of the spectacular wooden building was an American Second World War spy and started Thailand’s silk industry.
If the adjoining museum shop hasn’t burnt a hole in your credit card, head across the road to Mahboonkrong, known as MBK, one of Bangkok’s biggest shopping malls, for last-minute souvenirs, clothes, mobile phones and cameras. Truly up-market shopping can be found across the road at Siam Paragon, which has showrooms for Rolls Royce, Ferrari and other luxury vehicles on its upper floors. One of the city’s best bookshops, Kinokunya, is also found here and the variety of food downstairs is astounding. Oh, and there are some sharks in the basement.
Bangkok checklist
For destinations close to the river, the Chao Praya Express Boat (chaophrayaexpressboat.com) is the way to go. Otherwise, the quickest modes of transport are the BTS and the MRT.
Visitors to Buddhist temples should be covered up, take their shoes off and never point the soles of their feet at Buddhist icons.
The traditional Thai triangular pillows, for sale in many markets, are great souvenirs to take home.
