36 Hours in... Amsterdam
Overview Overview
Hotels Hotels
Attractions Attractions
Restaurants Restaurants
Nightlife Nightlife
Taking a walk or bike ride along Amsterdam's canals is one of the city's greatest pleasures Itineraries
An insider's guide to what to do on a short break in Amsterdam, including the best canal cruises and scenic walks as well as top spots for foodies and fans of history. By Rodney Bolt, Telegraph Travel's Amsterdam expert.
Why go now?
With Amsterdam’s Big Three museums (the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh and the Stedelijk) at last fully renovated and reopened and the city blazing the way in a Dutch foodie revolution, now is the time to visit. You might also catch the Amsterdam Dance Event (amsterdam-dance-event.nl) from 15-19 October (billed as “the biggest club festival in the world”), or perhaps Museum Night on 1 November, where museums across town throw open their doors after hours. You can fit a lot in to a day or two, from monuments and Old Masters to markets and hip cafés, with the bits in between a delicious mix of 17th-century charm and urban edginess.
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Getting there
British Airways (0844 493 0787; britishairways.com), CityJet (0871 66 33 777; cityjet.com), easyJet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) and KLM (0871 231 0000; klm.com) all fly to Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam.
Where to stay
Special treat
Seven one Seven(Prinsengracht 717; 0031 20 427 0717; 717hotel.nl) occupies a prime canalside location in the centre of town. Eight palatial rooms come replete with period décor, some with prime views of the Prinsengracht canal. Doubles from €250.
Mid-range
There are just seven rooms at the Orlando hotel (Prinsengracht 1099; 0031 20 638 6915; hotelorlando.nl), which is close to the heart of the city, yet not part of its hurly burly. Expect modernity where it counts (beds), quality where it pleases (rich silk curtains), and fine period touches. Rooms from €115.
Budget
The Amsterdam branch of Citizen M (Prinses Irenestraat 30; 0031 20 811 7090; citizenmamsterdamcity.com) is some way out of town, but there’s a direct tram connection (in under 10 minutes to the centre), or you can walk it in 25 minutes. The concept is simple: all you need is somewhere to sleep with a bathroom, the rest is automated. You can book online only, and you check in via computer, but it’s all done with a certain style. Doubles from €80.
On Arrival
5pm
Zip up the escalators at Amsterdam’s public library, OBA (Oosterdokskade 143, 0031 20 5230900; oba.nl), where there’s a rooftop terrace with a spectacular view of both the old and new parts of the city. Back at ground level, walk along the waterside and cross a rickety bridge for a drink at Hannekes Boom (Dijksgracht 4, 0031 20 419 9820; hannekesboom.nl), a shack-like café on an odd, lost island.
8pm
Put on the glad rags and prepare to be wowed by one of the best chefs in town, at Librije’s Zusje (Waldorf Hotel, Herengracht 542-556, 0031 20 718 4643; waldorfastoria.com/amsterdam). Sidney Schutte cooks with finesse and flair, giving the odd surprising twist to a local ingredient – such as crispy tulip bulbs. (Three courses, without wine, from €68.
Day One
9am
Amsterdam starts late. Come to Letting (Prinsenstraat 3, 0031 20 627 9393; letting.nl) in the Canal Belt, soon after opening time, for a traditional Dutch uitsmijter breakfast (egg, toast, and cheese, here with roast beef; €11.75). Then take a walk up the grand Keizersgracht, turning right along the Brouwersgracht, Amsterdam’s most photographed canal, towards Central Station.
10.30am
Depart on an hour-long canal cruise in a glass-topped boat (canal.nl or lovers.nl; from €15.50), from one of the moorings in front of Central Station: a chance to watch Amsterdam coming to life.
11.45am
Wander down the Damrak, skirt the ancient Oude Kerk, and edge through a corner of the red-light district to Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40, 0031 20 624 6604; opsolder.nl. €8) – a beautifully restored 17th-century canal house.
1pm
Cut through to the medieval city weigh-house on Nieuwmarkt, then along Kloveniersburgwal for a waterside lunch at Bord’Eau (Hotel De L’Europe, Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2, 0031 20 531 1705; bordeau.nl, lunch around €38). Chef Richard van Oostenbrugge’s light touch is perfect for a middle-of-the-day meal, and there’s an excellent-value lunchtime deal.
2.45pm
Head to the clock tower of the 17th-century City Mint, across the way from Bord’Eau, and on past the banks of blooms in the Flower Market. Then stroll back down the Herengracht, and through the Spiegelkwartier arts and antiques district.
3.30pm
The Rijksmuseum (Museumstraat 1, 0031 20 674 7000; rijksmuseum.nl. €15) lies at the end of a line of Spiegelkwartier antiques shops, like a monarch receiving courtiers. (Trams 2 or 5 will get you there from the Flower Market, if you’re fed up with walking.) Take in the Old Masters – or a few old favourites, if you’ve been before.
8pm
After freshening up at your hotel, head to Ricardo’s in Odeon (Singel 460, 0031 20 521 8559; odeonamsterdam.nl) for dinner, in the heavy-beamed cellar of a 17th-century canal-side mansion. No menu – you takes what you gets, but laws is it good. (Three courses around €45.)
11pm
Call a cab, or zigzag westwards through the canals to the Jordaan quarter. Duck down one of the many busy little alleys in the neighbourhood, for a nightcap at convivial De Tuin (Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13, 0031 20 624 4559; cafedetuin.nl) café.
Day Two
8.50am
After a quick coffee and croissant at the hotel, arrive at the Van Gogh Museum (Paulus Potterstraat 7, 0031 20 570 5200; vangoghmuseum.nl. €15) to be first past the doors when they open. (Book tickets online before you leave home, to avoid the queues.) After deep immersion in the tragic artist’s work, drop in next door to the Stedelijk Museum (Museumplein 10, 0031 20 573 2911; stedelijk.nl. €15), to be brought right up to date with the very latest in international art and design.
12.30pm
Take a walk down Van Baerlestraat to the hip quarter of De Pijp, to Little Collins (Eerste Sweelinckstraat 19F, 0031 20 673 2293; littlecollins.nl), where the Aussie-Dutch owner-chefs come up with brunches both classic and inspired (around €15). Then (Monday to Saturday) take a walk down the kilometre-long Abert Cuyp general market, and explore the side-street delis, to stock up on delectable goodies to take home.
City checklist:
1. Visit in summer for long evenings on outdoor terraces, autumn for walks along the canals, winter for good beer in a cosy café.
2. It’s not true that “anything goes” in Amsterdam. Public drunkenness and rowdiness meet with severe – if silent – local disapproval.
3. Find official advice from iamsterdam.com
This itinerary forms part of the new Telegraph Travel app, available free from the App Store. Rodney Bolt, our resident expert, has written the guide to Amsterdam, which will help you explore one of the Europe’s most enticing destinations. Rodney has lived in Amsterdam for nearly 20 years and has reviewed and recommended his top attractions, restaurants and shops to bring you the best the city has to offer. Short, insightful reviews written especially for this app, easy-to-use interactive maps – which can be used offline, to avoid roaming charges – and clear and simple categories will help you make your choices. It is your passport to a better trip.
Other destinations include: Paris, New York, Amsterdam, St Kitts, Malta, Venice, west coast Ireland, Melbourne and Sydney. To download, simply follow the link at telegraph.co.uk/travelapp. Our free app is compatible with all iPhone 4 and 5 and iPad devices.
