The 21 hottest insider labels according to Telegraph fashion editors
They're making waves in the fashion industry right now... The Telegraph's fashion editors let us in on the brands to know for Spring 2017
Alistair James
Nicholas Alistair Walsh and David James Wise worked at McQueen and Gareth Pugh before launching their own label. Childhood nostalgia underpins this season’s collection, which is based on Wendy Darling – so it’s Neverland nightgown dresses, dreamy sleeves and collars of the Peter Pan variety. Shop Alistair James online at theshopatbluebird.com.
JH Zane
Creative director and chief fashion designer Juhao Zeng describes his ethos as an embodiment of female empowerment. His brand JH Zane is already a hit with the street-style set, thanks to its attention to detail – think exposed stitching, quirky buttons and beautifully frayed hems. jhzane.co.uk.
Good News
The name alone makes us want to smile. This retro collection mixes American baseball boots with a ’70s colour palette and modern lines for something surprisingly fresh. Even better, the label has teamed up with charity Good Luck Shoes to send ‘seconds’ (otherwise destined for landfill) to refugees fleeing the Middle East. goodnews.london.
Morgan Curtis
Ms Curtis has form with swim-wear. She’s the designer behind last summer’s bestselling maillots and bikinis for Solid & Striped – but that was just a sideline. Her true focus is Morgan Lane, the lingerie and sleepwear brand she’s designed since 2014. Now she’s added swimwear to the mix – this time, with butterflies. morgan-lane.com.
Foundrae
Foundrae’s jewellery is heavy on symbolism as well as style. The snake on this ring and pendant is a talisman of rejuvenation, while the cigar-band-inspired ring bears the legend Vida Importado (‘important life’, if you’re wondering). brownsfashion.com.
Dhela
Duchess-watchers, take note: Daniella Issa Helayel, the woman behind Kate Middleton’s royal-blue engagement dress, has a new venture. She’s calling it Dhela, a play on her name, and it features very little in the way of jersey. Moving away from her day-dress Issa style, the new label is all about tropical brights, long, languid dresses infused with a Studio 54 spirit – and even metallics. For queens of the night only. dhela.com.
Gül Hürgel
Somewhere between chanelling Princess Ann in Roman Holiday and Marge Sherwood in The Talented Mr Ripley, Hürgel’s dresses are for ‘any destination where there is sun, sea and a pinch of love’. Where do we sign up? Fit-and-flare dress, £643, from net-a-porter.com.
By Pariah
Now in its second season, By Pariah is a fusion of founder Sophie Karg’s utilitarian German aesthetic and London’s energy (she is based here). Her latest collection, Between the Lines, is inspired by ‘geometry and German Bauhaus’. It features mini hoop earrings with interchangeable charms and elliptical stackable rose-gold and diamond rings. bypariah.com.
Matteau
Founded by Aussie sisters Ilona Hamer and Peta Heinsen, Matteau is the ultimate in beautifully made, minimal swimwear. The aim? ‘To make you feel comfortable and confident –like the best version of yourself.’ And where to wear it? ‘Coming from Sydney, we have to say Icebergs in Bondi.’ Maillot, £173, matteau-swim com.
Yuul Yie
Designer Sunyuul Yie creates made-to-order shoes in her Korean factory from Italian leather for her label, founded in 2013. Her dream customer? ‘Tilda Swinton. I love her unique mood and timeless, ageless style.’ yuulyie.com.
Fern Fans
Pre-diet, Karl Lagerfeld used to hide behind his, but now we can all join the fan club. And what’s more, we can also send secret messages with one, according to the co-founders of Fern Fans, Daisy Hoppen and Amanda Borberg. For instance… Moving the fan with the left hand = they are watching us. Moving the fan with the right hand = I love another. Holding the fan to the lips = kiss me. Who knew? fernfans.com.
Borgo De Nor
Having grown up in Miami andPortugal, respectively, Carmen Borgonovo and Joana de Noronha know about city-to-sun dressing. Their new label features bright colours and bold prints inspired by ‘surrealist muses’. Available from net-a-porter.com.
Jacquemus
Paris Fashion Week tends to be dominated by the behemoths of the industry, so it was refreshing when new brand Jacquemus managed to break on to the scene. Playing with proportion to create surrealist yet wearable shapes, the new Parisian heavyweight has already been recognised by the LVMH group, by winning its ‘Special Jury Prize’ last year. Definitely one to watch. From brownsfashion.com.
Else Lingerie
Underwear tends to be either functional or ornamental, but Istanbul-based Else features lacy pieces ‘for a modern woman who wants to be comfortable and supported, but still look chic’, says founder Ela Onur. Available at selfridges.com.
Muuñ
Make like a young Jane Birkin with one of Munñ’s streamlined straw bags, designed in France and handmade in Ghana. They come with removable fabric linings, and straps that hang from hand or shoulder. Now where’s that sunshine? Available at matchesfashion.com.
Sies Marjan
Debuts don’t get much splashier than Sander Lak’s new brand Sies Marjan (named after his parents), which drew Anna Wintour and Natalie Massenet to his first New York show in 2016. This season, he offers handkerchief-hemmed, iridescent dresses and twist-front silk tees. From harrods.com.
Three Graces
Three Graces London offers loungewear and resortwear that just begs to be worn (or shrugged off) by a sunlounger – so it was only a matter of time before the two-year-old brand added its own swimwear to the mix. The concise range includes two swimming costumes and a few mix-and-match bikinis, available in mustard (the statement colour of the season) and Bond-girl black. Simple as that. From threegraceslondon.com.
Ecole de Curiosités
Three reasons why we love Ecole de Curiosités: 1. Spring/summer ’17 is inspired by the inimitably chic surrealist photographer and muse Dora Maar. 2. The silhouette is loose but flattering, and the cotton and linen that make up the collection have a wonderful tactile quality. 3. Dover Street Market has just picked up the brand, so it will be available in the UK for the first time in March. From £345.
The Gigi
Brothers Pierluigi ‘Gigi’ and Mario Boglioli, the brains behind one of Italy’s most successful tailoring businesses, went on to found The Gigi – a menswear brand aimed at the adventurous (but not outrageous) dresser. This spring they have added womenswear, and this look’s riff on nautical is perfect for those wanting to look grown-up but with a little added humour. From boutique1.com.
Alighieri
Combining her love for Dante’s Divine Comedy (hence Alighieri) with jewellery, Rosh Mahtani creates 24ct-gold-plated bronze pieces inspired by the epic poem. Available from alighieri.co.uk.
Malone Souliers
In three years, this brand has attracted high-profile fans and collaborators, including Roksanda Ilincic and Natalia Vodianova. The pointed slides and heels that creative director Mary Alice Malone designed for Roksanda’s September LFW shoe feature striped, stretchy straps – ‘truly a match made in heaven’, she says. Shoes, £450, shop.malonesouliers.com.
