Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Spring 2023

With his latest men’s lineup, Yohji Yamamoto made a departure from his usual all-black collections, saying that his idea for the season was “to take off my old clothing and try new colors, new inspiration.” He continued by saying, “So it was very joyful to make this collection, but it was very dangerous.”

The Japanese designer showed loosely tailored suits in shades of deep blue, ivory, charcoal gray and, yes, black. But he also made ample use of texture, detailing and layering to create depth even in monochrome looks. Leather-look panels, collars and pockets added a subtle shine to relaxed fitting jackets, while white embroidered phrases such as “I hate you,” “lonesome,” and “s–tty life” contrasted with black backdrops while also injecting a dose of cheeky humor.

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A series of ivory suits in a slightly wrinkled fabric were loosely cut, with trousers and sleeves that were cuffed at the ankles and wrists. Some had an abstract, paint-like print in similar neutral shades of beige, while others were covered in large rectangles of various tweeds, for a patchwork effect. Wide-legged overalls and pleated panels attached to the bottom of jackets also made several appearances.

Perhaps Yamamoto’s riskiest looks were the ones turned out in loud, colorful mixed prints, which sometimes were splashed across velour before being shaped into baggy jackets and wide-legged trousers. The designer tapped several local celebrities to walk the show — which he staged in the basement of his Tokyo flagship store — but even so, the clothes created more of a buzz than the wearers.

“Speaking a little bit seriously, Japan as a country has declined,” Yamamoto said backstage after the show. “So at least we creators or artists have to do something to make people happy. It has become our role, I feel. So I tried to develop a role for people, to make people enjoy.”

When asked if he will continue to play this role in future season as well, the designer answered simply, “I have to.”

Launch Gallery: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Men's Spring 2023

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