The last two months have been a blur of barrels for Brett Barley.
While the marquee swells have been hyped and documented in real-time, there have alos been countless in-between days like the one in the edit below. Chest to head high, offshore, and nearly empty.
"September gave us such a wild run of swell, that I started getting to ride some different craft in good surf," writes Barley in the description alongside this quick clip. "This particular day was at the end of a 4-day run of waves from Tropical Storm Phillipe. I ended up on my Christenson Surfboards "Lane Splitter" twin fin, and thinking I'd prolly switch back to my thruster, but I was having so much fun I stayed on it all day."
While these aren't the best or biggest barrels Barley scored this fall, these are often the most memorable days. No crowds. Few cameras. Little hype. Just a couple of friends at a clean wedge trading tubes, turns and the occasional air.
Isn't this what surfing is all about?
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