Versatility and Elegance Define Accessories Collections at Milan Fashion Week
Feminine and sexy designs were as key as bold and futuristic shapes in Milan, where accessories brands showed off their artisanal skills and creativity. Here, a roundup of the best accessories collections in town:
Giuseppe Zanotti perceives a certain escapism in the air, which he tried to translate in his fall 2021 offering, striking a balance between more everyday options and the signature sensuality of high-heeled stilettos and wedged sandals. Chunky-soled penny loafers — including a flamboyant version covered in sparkly rhinestones — looked comfy, as did a capsule of slides and flat sandals crafted from upcycled mink sourced from vintage coats and accessories. Projecting a return to brighter times, with parties and cocktail receptions, Zanotti introduced a new wedged sandal in mirrored gold, silver and blue shades, as well as knee-high boots in wet-look vinyl.
More from WWD
Il Bisonte has pledged to step up its sustainable efforts by using low-impact vegetable tans and supporting the network of artisans who work for the company within 18 miles of Florence. “An aesthetic commitment in the name of understatement and a conscious use of materials have always been our hallmark,” said Luigi Ceccon, the company’s chief executive officer. “These are our values which are still present today. We are proud of them and want to promote them around the globe.” Timelessness and high quality were the main pillars of the fall collection, filled with minimal bags suitable for multiple occasions, including the Mediterranean range of totes designed by brand founder Wanny di Filippo crafted from smooth leather or regenerated suede with a wavy motif on the top.
Sergio Rossi’s fall boots are inspired by an archival design from the late ’90s. Feminine, edgy and sophisticated at the same time, the stretch Lycra boots feature a new round-toe shape. Further developing the signature SR1 shape, the brand is launching a leopard print for fall, seen on classic slingbacks, pumps and moccasins.
The new Valextra Chiaroscuro collection, inspired by the 15th century art technique of the same name, interprets the brand’s classic designs in new versions where black is combined with natural tones emphasizing volumes and the label’s graphic aesthetic.
In the new Chiaroscuro Iside, the hand-painted shiny black of the bag’s edges expands onto the leather in pergamena white, and new colors such as vanilla, camel and military green. The back of the bag is updated with a black pocket, which can store a phone, marked with the piece’s serial number, identifying the artisan who handcrafted the bag.
The Chiaroscuro collection also introduces a new soft bucket, featuring a graphic motif on the shoulder strap.
Car Shoe presented its latest collection via a fun video that takes into account the surging interest in chess in the wake of the Netflix hit series “The Queen’s Gambit.” The footwear specialist, part of the Prada Group, set its video to unveil the fall collection on a life-size chessboard filled with dancers wearing the brand’s latest creations. They included edgy boots crafted from stretch and patent leather, as well as chunky-soled sneakers.
Furla introduced a new design for fall, the Portagioia bag, which in Italian has two meanings, a jewel case or something that brings joy — and the Bologna-based company underscored the joyful and imaginative trip customers could take by watching the video to present the collection. The curved, ladylike bag is available in glossy black patent leather with a matte calf leather flap and it has a metal push-stud fastening. In a see-now-buy-now activation, the Portagioia is available in a limited edition as a preview, exclusively at Furla’s flagship store near Milan’s Duomo, as well as globally on e-commerce.
The Furla Villa line features a selection of crossbody bags with front flaps, with a striking new stud metallic square lock closure. The color palette ranges from pollen yellow to white cotton, but there is also a black maxi crocodile allover printed leather version.
An entirely new line is Furla Vertigine’s mini-sized bucket bags in cognac, black or talc colors in textured calf leather that come with detachable and interchangeable drawstring pouches in black and white pied-de-poule fabric, or in black or silver quilted nylon fabric with a diamond design.
Nicolò Beretta is known for his whimsical and pop-tinged footwear collection for his Giannico brand and for fall he did not disappoint. Delivering a concise collection of versatile styles that can help women easily transition their look from day to night, he offered sparkling materials, as in a pointy-toe pump crafted from mirrored leather embossed with a python pattern that showed a sensual crisscross exalting the shoe’s low-cut silhouette. The same material was used for the new Victoria bootie, which features a tubular flared structure. Beretta also introduced his first chunky-soled sneaker style embellished with straps to wrap around the ankle.
Like many brands this season, Serapian paid homage to Milan and its neighborhoods by inviting some of the city’s key personalities including Madina Visconti di Modrone, Luna Bonaccorsi and Derek Castiglioni, to appear in a range of portraits. The company continued to highlight its signature Mosaico handwoven pattern, which appeared on a chic brown hobo bag with no hardware and spiced up a soft pouch with drawstrings that can be worn cross body or hand-held. The latter featured stripes in saturated nuances combined with black. By partnering with design firm Azucena, the company turned its hand to a modern rendition of the signature Catilina chair first introduced in the ’50s by designer Luigi Caccia Dominioni.
Storied Italian hatmaker Borsalino continues to expand its offering by reissuing each season the company’s carryovers with unconventional details thrown into the mix or adding more playful styles. For its fall presentation, the brand asked a group of Milan-based stylish women to appear in a video in which they are seen strolling around the city wearing cow-printed bucket hats; classic fedoras with floral or Op art-inspired patterns decorating the ribbon, and crafty top hats tied together with a leather patch.
For fall, Pollini took a deep dive in its archives to revisit classic bi-colored boots as well as chunky-heeled, squared-toed options wrapped with leather straps and fastened with golden buckles. These also appeared on a reinterpretation of the brand’s classic Daytona moccasin, as well as on bags and belts matching the footwear’s sophisticated palette of mustard, orange, red, burgundy and black. Sculptural heels and Art Nouveau-like laser-cut motifs elevated the daily styles with a charming arty accent.
In the Fratelli Rossetti video, three girls were seen jumping on beds at home: on their feet, the brand’s signature loafers, whose soft and comfortable shape and thin soles work for indoor occasions just as much as outdoors. For fall, the signature style was revisited with double-fringe motifs and oversize tassels.
Rodo’s signature weave was revisited for fall in new materials such as calfskin with shearling. The storied accessories brand also presented animal patterns on pony skin for the daytime bags or embellished with sequins for the evening. Satin and lace blended on a clutch bag and satin was also delicately pleated and completely covered with Swarovski crystals on the Giza bag. The Knot sandal, available both in the flat version or on comfortable and mirrored heels, points to the craft of the Rodo artisans.
Paciotti kept it classy and feminine for its fall collection, developing mid-heeled slingback pointy styles crafted from glossy leather or reinterpreting moccasins for a cage-like kitten heel pump adding a dash of eccentricity to a footwear staple. Trendy combat boots with chunky soles and subdued cowboy boots completed the offering.
At René Caovilla, the sensual, ankle-wrapping motif of the brand’s signature Cleo sandal was transferred in an everyday biker boot style bearing a snake-shaped embellishment covered with rhinestones. For nighttime, a sock boot matching the precious motif with high heels bedecked with crystals was added to the lineup of staple evening sandals and slingback options.
Footwear label AGL, guided by sisters Sara, Vera and Mari Giusti, presented their fall collection through a video, filmed at London’s Tate Modern, and starring three dancers, including actress Nikkita Chadha. The arty vibe of the digital showcase influenced the spirit of the collection: While a pair of slouchy leather heeled boots telegraphed a message of sophisticated elegance, laced-up patent leather styles and a pair of patchwork sneakers featured chunky yet lightweight soles for a cool, urban vibe.
For his second capsule collection for the Santoni brand, footwear designer Andrea Renieri continued to leverage the Italian company’s high-end manufacturing techniques to deliver a lineup rooted in chic femininity. Playing with draping, he created a pair of sophisticated soft leather booties in a honey tone, while an elegant knot defined a red slingback style. For a glamorous touch, the designer conceived sandals and mules featuring a sensual wave motif of rhinestones.
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.
