Veronique Leroy RTW Spring 2023

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Veronique Leroy comes at this season’s collection from two distinct sides through the works of famous fashion photographers Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton. She pulled from Newton’s glamazons in slinky halter tops, and slouchy lounge suits. Ruched shoulders add a bit of voluminous ’80s edge, while velour bralettes are meant to be layered under longer pieces to add unexpected depth.

In this lineup, Leroy plays with her color palette, highlighting unexpected colors like ochre and using tones of the same family that are slightly dissonant. She loves terry cloth, and elevates the humble fabric again this season into cropped jackets and midi-skirt suits, though the jackets are reversible.

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That half of the collection has the touches of sexiness from Newton’s work, while Avedon’s “In the American West,” his collection of portraits of cowboys, miners and bar girls, brings a harder edge. Workwear is reinterpreted here, using stiff denim for full skirts and cropped work jackets with exaggerated collars. It’s the unexpected use of a double linen layering technique that reads as denim but is light and airy, that brings the element into a spring collection.

Accessories shine, particularly the plexiglass and acetate earrings and “sunglasses” in amethyst and emerald — Leroy defines them “jewels for the face” as they are for decoration only. They top off a collection of competing ideas with plenty of alternatives for the woman she interprets.

Launch Gallery: Veronique Leroy RTW Spring 2023

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