Undercover RTW and Men’s Fall 2021

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Kelly Wetherille
·2 min read
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With his latest collections, Jun Takahashi aimed to provide a moment of escape from day-to-day problems facing people during a challenging time.

“It is the hope we have for what lies ahead of our daily worries and anxieties. It is a world view created for those individuals in today’s society that live each and every day with constant conflicting emotions,” the designer wrote in his show notes. “It’s a different perspective from that of clothing design, but it would be an honor to have you feel and understand this.”

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Takahashi opened the show with a series of pajama sets overlaid with daytime staples such as cardigans and denim shirts. The models wandered the runway as if sleepwalking, their eyes downcast and only socks on their feet. There was something oddly comforting about it, despite the pieces getting steadily darker as ghost-like figures began appearing on oversized Fair Isle knits.

The figures, of course, were a harbinger of things to come. Takahashi’s men’s offering drew inspiration from the popular anime series “Evangelion.” He paired leggings and knee-length coats in tech fabrics with hoods and hats that doubled as helmets, complete with colored lights. Pullovers had three-dimensional panels and puffer jackets had contrasting colors of fabric quilted in contoured lines to resemble the uniforms of fictional space travelers.

Takahashi went with rich textures and glam silhouettes for his women’s offering. Fitted sweaters with mixed Fair Isle motifs gave a casual and humorous slant to wide, slit-legged trousers, while satin panels elevated fuzzy fleece joggers. Outerwear included quilted coats in dusty pastels with zip-away bottom panels, and chic trenchcoats with built-in vests layered over the top. Bouclé knits in warm shades of mustard and beige and easy-fitting trousers oozed elegant comfort, but were given a glam boost by long satin sashes ruffled at the back and tied into large bows in front.

Feminine frocks in butterfly prints were followed by modern takes on tuxedos in bright green or pink. The show closed out with a striking series of heavily ruffled coats, tops and minidresses in bold solids and a rose print. Paired with coordinating tights, they provided a fun and chic play on contrasting volumes.

Launch Gallery: Undercover RTW Fall 2021

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