The Truth About Hair Straightening and Smoothing Treatments
Summer is pretty much here and for many of us that means one thing: frizz! (If your hair is anything other than bone-straight then the two pretty much go hand-in-hand, right?) While professional smoothing and straightening treatments yielding long-term results have gained popularity over the years, a quick Google search of options will likely leave you feeling...confused. How do you know what treatment is right for your hair type? What's the difference between a Brazilian blowout and a keratin treatment? Can they straighten curly hair? Well, we got the expert scoop. Read on for the breakdown if you're considering a new summer style.
Hair Botox
“Hair botox can fill in (porous) hair, reduce frizz by more than 50 percent, and cut styling time in half,” says Lana Grand, celeb hairstylist and owner of Los Angeles-based salon Petite Mason. “The treatment eliminates frizz but keeps the natural texture of the hair. It’s the gentlest of smoothing treatment options.”
Hair botox is the gentlest treatment option.
Who is hair botox right for? Anyone! Straight hair, curly hair, and any hair type in between, including colored or chemically relaxed hair. Bonus: It can also help protect against dandruff, psoriasis, and other scalp conditions.
What’s the treatment process like? The product is applied to wet, freshly shampooed hair. After about 45 minutes the hair is rinsed, dried, and straightened with a flat iron.
How does hair botox differ from other smoothing/straightening treatments? It’s formaldehyde-free and doesn’t break the hair bonds, which means it won’t damage hair or weaken its integrity. You can return to your normal styling routine the next day.
How long does hair botox last? About 2-4 months. (You’ll need to use a special shampoo.)
How much does hair botox cost? $150-$350
Brazilian Blowout
“A Brazilian blowout is a customizable smoothing treatment that actually improves the condition of the hair by creating a protective layer around the hair shaft to eliminate frizz and smooth the cuticle,” says Grand. "Because it is amino-acid based, this treatment can be done every 3-6 months with no band of regrowth.”
Who is Brazilian blowout right for? Anyone! Including those with permed or chemically relaxed or straightened hair.
What’s the treatment process like? The Brazilian blowout formula is applied to wet, freshly washed hair in small sections. After, the hair is dried and hair flat ironed to seal in the treatment, then washed, conditioned, and blow dried smooth.
A Brazilian blowout can be customizable to your hair type-you don't have to go pin straight.
How does it differ from other smoothing/straightening treatments? There's no downtime after the treatment-you can shampoo your hair as soon as the next day. Brazilian blowouts are also customizable, so if you don’t want your hair completely straight your stylist can tailor the treatment so that your natural texture is still there-it'll just be more manageable.
How long does a Brazilian blowout last? Up to 3 months depending on your hair type and routine. (You'll need to use a special shampoo.)
How much does a Brazilian blowout cost? $250 -$300
Keratin Treatment
"The main difference between a keratin treatment and Brazilian blowout is the intensity. A keratin treatment helps to take away most to all of the curl, volume and frizz. It also needs to stay on the hair longer to achieve its results (72 hours!) compared to the Brazilian blowout, which gets rinsed the same day," explains Grand.
Who is a keratin treatment right for? Someone with course or frizzy hair or those with curly hair who like to blow dry their hair smooth. (It won’t completely straighten super curly hair, but it will soften curls a bit and make them more manageable.)
Can you use a keratin treatment on Black hair? Yes! A keratin treatment can also be a good option for someone transitioning from chemically straightened to natural hair, as it can offer a little grace period until the relaxer grows out.
Who shouldn’t get a keratin treatment? Those who love their natural curl pattern (again, it won’t completely straighten super curly hair but it will soften it) and those with extra fine, thin, or overly processed (think platinum blonde) hair.
If you love your natural curl pattern, keratin is not for you.
What’s the treatment process like? The product is applied and combed through wet, freshly shampooed hair in small sections. The hair is roughly blow dried until damp, then blown smooth with a brush. Once dry, the hair is sectioned again and flat ironed to seal in the product. It can take 1-3 hours depending on your hair texture and length and you'll need to wait 72 hours before you wash your hair or pull it up.
How does it differ from other smoothing/straightening treatments? It’s not ideal for all hair textures and you can't immediately return to your normal styling routine.
How long does it last? About 3-6 months. (You'll need to use a special shampoo.)
How much does a Keratin treatment cost? $250-$450
Stylist's Take: Brazilian Blowout vs Keratin "I prefer the Brazilian blowout because the chemicals aren't as potent and you can leave with clean hair and wash it the very next day if you'd like," says Lauren Miller, hairstylist at Nashville's Element Salon. "With the full keratin treatment, you have to wait 72 hours until you can shampoo your hair, put it in a ponytail, or even just tuck it behind your ears."
Japanese Hair Straightening
Also called thermal reconditioning, Japanese hair straightening is a treatment that breaks down the bonds of the hair to permanently straighten it. It can be damaging, warns Grand.
Who is a Japanese straightening right for? Those who want to permanently straighten their curly or wavy hair. Japanese straightening is ideal for loose-to-medium curls, so if your hair is on the coarse or kinky side you might be better off with a chemical relaxer depending on your goals.
The Japanese treatment will permanently straighten curls.
What’s the treatment process like? It's similar to others in that the hair is saturated with a special solution, rinsed, dried with a blowdryer, and then flat ironed in small sections. It takes several hours and afterward you can’t wash it or pull it up for at least 72 hours.
How does it differ from other smoothing/straightening treatments? It breaks the hair bonds and will completely straighten curly hair permanently (Or at least until it grows out.)
How long does it last? Until it grows out.
How much does Japanese straightening cost? $450 to $800
Chemical Straightening (Relaxers)
Like Japanese straightening, Chemical Straightening completely changes the hair structure to permanently straighten even the curliest strands.
Who is a relaxer right for? Those with healthy coarse or kinky curly hair who want straight strands.
What’s the treatment process like? Lengthy! Your stylist will apply 2-3 coats of the relaxer formula to dry hair in small sections. They'll then follow by rinsing out each section in the order in which it was applied. Once it's rinsed, your stylist will typically shampoo and deep condition your hair. Final steps will vary depending on your hair goals.
How do relaxers differ from other smoothing/straightening treatments? It's strong enough to straighten even the tightest curls but can come with some consequences, like scalp irritation.
How long does it last? Until it grows out.
How much do relaxers cost? $100+
Stylists Take: Japanese Straightening vs Chemical Straightening
"Both are the permanent hair straightening options that will create a visible outgrowth line and will need to be grown out," says Grand. "And both treatments break down the hair's bonds in order to remove curl, which can leave the hair a lot weaker."
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