It’s Time to Fashion the Future
In 2020, Vogue promises to: Look ahead with joy and optimism. Live more sustainably every day, in every way. Advocate for independence, individuality, creativity—and the possibility of positive change. Redefine timelessness and value in fashion. Insist on inclusivity, respect, and collaboration. Support families of all kinds. Take a stand. Our values are everything.
CREATIVITY
Photographed by Stefan Ruiz
Fashion Editor: Jorden Bickham
Alexander McQueen
What makes Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen such a bastion of creativity? It begins with her vast web of influences, most with origins in the United Kingdom—the flora in Kew’s Royal Botanic Gardens; the West Dorset–born paleontologist Mary Anning; shabby old English country houses—and ends with her tailoring, which flits from militaristic rigor to breathless romanticism. Models Ugbad Abdi, Indira Scott, and Abby Champion all wear Alexander McQueen. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Romy Soleimani.
INDIVIDUALITY
Photographed by Nigel Shafran
Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson
Balenciaga
Since his appointment as artistic director of Balenciaga in 2015, Demna Gvasalia hasn’t chafed against the house’s storied archives so much as exploded them, with multiplicity—of silhouettes, proportions, and textures in the clothes and age, ethnicity, and size among models—a priority. “We cast in a new way, with different aesthetic views,” Gvasalia says. What he wants, in the end, are individuals. “Each [model] does something; each of them has the presence I’m always looking for; each of them has their own way of wearing clothes.” Models Marius Courcoul, Nadja Auermann, Sarah Batt, Tanya Katysheva, and Eliza Douglas all wear Balenciaga. Hair, Simone Mason; makeup, Miranda Joyce.
SUSTAINABILITY
Photographed by Daniel Jackson
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman
Marine Serre and Atlein
For young French designers Marine Serre and Atlein’s Antonin Tron, to build a sustainable business means more than using responsibly sourced materials (although that’s certainly important, too). Also at hand is the challenge of giving their clothing lasting presence—of fighting disposability in truly every way. “I believe in a radical change in our economic system to save our world,” Tron says. “I think our generation has the opportunity to change things.” Model Imaan Hammam wears Atlein. Models Adut Akech and Carolyn Murphy both wear Marine Serre. Hair, Esther Langham; makeup, Petros Petrohilos.
INCLUSIVITY
Photographed by Stefan Ruiz
Fashion Editor: Jorden Bickham
Gucci
Alessandro Michele’s Gucci has long played fast and loose with the concept of gendered dressing, splicing the codes of traditional menswear with frill and flounce galore. Possessed of an aesthetic sensibility at once cinematic and antiquarian, Michele advances a vision of fashion and style that leaves plenty of room for everybody—including misfits. Model Hyunji Shin wears Gucci.
Telfar
The brainchild of Liberian-American designer Telfar Clemens, Telfar privileges inclusion. In The World Isn’t Everything, the short film that accompanied his spring 2020 collection, Clemens considered security procedures at airports around the world, and how those checkpoints can be used to objectify and oppress. Telfar, needless to say, does the very opposite; as the unisex label proudly proclaims, it’s “not for you—it’s for everyone.” Model Aheem Sosa wears Telfar.
Maison Margiela
Long a kind of standard-bearer for the fashion avant-garde, Maison Margiela’s designs favor the cleverly off-kilter—mixed-and-matched proportions, exposed stitching, an odd sleeve—as much now, under John Galliano, as they did under Martin Margiela himself. Model Paloma Elsesser wears Maison Margiela.
Gucci
Subtle slicks of gold lend a Gucci blazer—resplendent in peachy pink—the sort of high/low, masculine/feminine quality that’s become the house’s signature. “I’m afraid of getting bored,” Alessandro Michele said recently. “I always have to try something new.” Model Indira Scott wears Gucci. On this and preceding spread: hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Romy Soleimani.
TIMELESSNESS
Photographed by Daniel Jackson
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman
Celine
The “new” Celine, much like the label under Phoebe Philo, is a meditation on simple pleasures that will last. Since his installment at the house in 2018, Hedi Slimane has made Celine’s fundamental Frenchness his North Star: “I needed to reroot the house of Celine from within,” he says. “Its Parisian essence. I was born and raised in Paris, and there is no ambiguity as to where this historical French house, which was always around as I was growing up, stands for culturally. I am rebuilding the semantics sign by sign, season after season. It is really about foundations and consistency.” Models Selena Forrest and Olivia Vinten both wear Celine by Hedi Slimane. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Petros Petrohilos.
INDEPENDENCE
Photographed by Sharon Lockhart
Fashion Editor: Alex Harrington
Erdem, Pyer Moss, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Rokh
With their respective Turkish-British, Haitian-American, English, Chinese-Irish, and Korean backgrounds, several of the industry’s most independent voices are changing how we talk about representation in fashion. At Erdem, Pyer Moss, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, and Rokh, collections reflecting the designers’ very specific points of view only help to enrich the greater design landscape. Abdi wears Erdem. Model Adesuwa Aighewi wears Pyer Moss. Model Sara Grace Wallerstedt wears Molly Goddard. Model Jill Kortleve wears Simone Rocha. Model Vilma Sjöberg wears Rokh. Hair, Tamas Tuzes; makeup, Francelle Daly.
COLLABORATION
Photographed by Daniel Jackson
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s spring collection—a surprise collaboration with the designer Christian Lacroix—represented some of the best that fashion has to offer: euphoric beauty, honest-to-goodness wearability, and a merging of extraordinary (and extraordinarily different) points of view. “It was a very open process,” Van Noten says. “We appreciated each other’s creativity.” Models Ellen Rosa, Vinten, Forrest, Eniola Abioro, and Cara Taylor all wear Dries Van Noten. Hair, Mustafa Yanaz; makeup, Petros Petrohilos.
Originally Appeared on Vogue
