Three glorious egg recipes that are anything but humble

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Eggs can be the focus of a sophisticated dish, says Mark Hix - Matt Austin

When I did my culinary training, learning all the classical French approaches, eggs were far from just something to poach, fry or scramble for breakfast. Instead, they starred as the main ingredient in many interesting dishes. We turned out everything from oeufs en meurette, poached in red wine with bacon and mushrooms, to oeufs en gelée, which is basically eggs set in jelly along with, say, foie gras, salmon or caviar.

Many of these old-fashioned dishes have been dropped from restaurant repertoires, but they’re a reminder that eggs needn’t remain a humble ingredient. Lending some luxury to an egg completely raises its status.

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