I Reviewed the Viral Aztec Clay Mask and I Have *Thoughts*
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Once upon a time, before there was #BeautyTok and Reddit skincare communities, there were only word-of-mouth beauty rituals passed down throughout the centuries. From jade-rolling to hair-oiling, we've all seen the continual popularity of these age-old beauty staples, and that includes the very popular, very viral Aztec clay mask. I mean, if you've spent even five minutes on the internet in the last few years, you've undoubtedly seen the cult-favorite, mix-it-yourself mask in TikTok hashtags, Reddit threads, and in your own group chats, with claims that it does everything from fix clogged pores to blackheads to cystic acne—all with a single ingredient: bentonite clay.
Sounds too good to be true, right? Welp, that's why I'm here. On today's episode of Is This Viral Beauty Product Actually Worth It?TM, I enlisted the help of my two very eager friends (hi, Maggie and Milan) to test the mask on our three very different skin types, and also chatted with board-certified dermatologist, Karan Lal, MD, to see what's up with this $10 viral product. Let's begin, shall we?
Meet the expert:
Karan Lal, MD, is a double board-certified adult, pediatric, and cosmetic dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New Jersey.
What does the Aztec Clay Mask do for you?
The only ingredient is the Aztec clay mask is calcium bentonite clay, a natural pore-clearing agent that acts like a magnet to help attract and stick to dirt, oil, and other gunk in your skin. And that can be a good thing, because "your sebum harbors bacteria and pollutants that we come in contact with every day," says Dr. Lal. The clay also contains a ton of minerals that are thought to potentially help your skin better heal itself—which is likely why people swear it's a cure-all for clogged pores, acne, and uneven skin texture (even if the "science" isn't totally there).
But despite this clay mask being ~trendy~, it's definitely not new. Various forms of clay have been used in ancient skincare routines for thousands of years, from Cleopatra's reign 2,000 years ago, to Ayurvedic practices in India more than 4,000 years ago. Obvs, today's version doesn't have nearly as much history (it was created in 1984), but according to the manufacturers of Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay, their calcium bentonite does have a unique source: the Death Valley desert in California, where it's supposedly "sun-dried for up to six months in extreme temperatures of 134 degrees."
So what does that mean for your skin? Welp, in the end, it's still clay (albeit very ~cool~ clay), and clay's main function is to suck out and absorb oils and moisture, like a sponge. This can be a great quick, temporary "fix" for super-oily skin types—think: making your pores look a little tighter before a big event—but it's not going to magically unclog all of your pores or eradicate acne, especially since it's only hangin' out on your face for ten-ish minutes. Sorry.
How do you make the Aztec Clay Mask?
First, to really give the mask a ~proper~ test on different skin types, I (who has dry skin) decided to enlist the help of my two friends, Maggie (who has oily skin) and Milan (who has "normal"/combination skin). We all made the mask the same way, based on Aztec Secret's recommendation of mixing equal parts clay with either apple cider vinegar or water. Based on internet reviews, we each decided to mix three tablespoons of clay with three tablespoons of apple cider vinegar, which seemed to be the most popular ratio.
Note: The instructions warn against using a metal bowl or any metal utensil to mix the clay, supposedly because the clay will become "less effective" or "lose its magnetic charge." Do I believe that? Not really. But am I a cosmetic chemist? Nope! So just to be safe, I personally mixed the mask in a glass bowl with a wooden spoon, before layering the mask on my face in a thick, even coat.
Our before-and-after results
Instead of just giving this a single one-and-done test (how much can you really tell from a product after just one use?), all three of us used the Aztec Secret Clay Mask for two weeks for different amounts of time and with different frequencies, based on our skin types. And, unsurprisingly, we had some thoughts.
The Aztec Clay Mask on *dry skin*
SKIN TYPE: Dry
I have frustratingly dry skin, as in I slather on l-a-y-e-r-s of moisturizers and am still left with a thirsty-af face. I'm also lucky to have very regular hormonal breakouts, so I'm always looking for acne products that won't dry my face out (difficult).
TIME: 6 mins.
I left the mask on for about six minutes, and, like all clay masks, this one tightened on my skin as it began to dry. I also felt a slight tingle from the apple cider vinegar, which was totally fine for the first few minutes, but then during the last half, I was itching to rinse it off. Not exactly what you want in your skincare.
RESULTS: Not bad, not amazing.
I had my doubts about a clay mask—with vinegar (!)—working well on someone with dry skin, but after using it once or twice a week for a few weeks, I was pleasantly surprised. My skin felt overall smoother, and though it's likely coincidental, I haven't had many breakouts either. But the biggest determining factor for me was how well makeup applied to my skin after masking—two words: damn great.
Still, was this the best mask choice for dry, acne-prone skin? Honestly, no; it's definitely a risky choice for anyone who has highly sensitive, easily irritated skin. But if you want to try yourself, just remember to follow up with an extremely moisturizing face lotion, like one of these:
The Aztec Clay Mask on *oily skin*
SKIN TYPE: Oily
"I've always had dry, sensitive skin, but when I began hormonal birth control, it turned super oily and sensitive," says Maggie. "Although my acne has gotten better recently, I struggled with cystic acne for quite a while. Which, for anyone else who has been through it, knows it freaking sucks."
TIME: 10 mins.
Maggie kept her mask on for 10 minutes for her oily skin—the maximum recommend time limit. "Once the clay dried, it felt tight and itchy on my skin," she says. "Not unbearable, but not the most comfortable thing in the world." Maggie has a long relationship with the Aztec Clay Mask, though, and is proudly part of its fan club, so she's very used to the tightness and itchiness (even though we still don't love a product that itches).
RESULTS: Love it
"I truly believe that the Aztec Face Mask—along with my consistent skincare regimen specifically created for breakouts—helped clear my skin of acne," she says. Still, even her oily skin finds the mask drying, so she always follows up with an oil-free moisturizer afterward.
The Aztec Clay Mask on *combination* skin
SKIN TYPE: Combo/"normal"
Milan won't admit it, but she is one of those people with, like, annoyingly good skin. "I get a pimple here and there, but most of the time my skin feels pretty hydrated and comfortable," she says. "Not too oily really ever." Sigh.
TIME: 7 mins.
Milan kept the mask on her combination skin for about seven minutes. "The mask felt totally fine for a while, but when it started to dry up and I couldn't move my face, it felt a little itchy," she says, echoing everyone else's experience. "I don't know if my skin needs to use it as a full-on face mask regularly, I may just use it occasionally."
RESULTS: Perfectly fine
Because Milan does not have consistent or reoccurring acne, plus a quite ~average~ skin type, she decided that the mask worked better for her as spot treatment. "Over the past few weeks, whenever I've had a pimple, I've dabbed a bit of the mask on it and kept it on overnight," she said, adding that to her surprising, "it really helped dry up and flatten the zit."
How often should you use the Aztec Clay Mask?
How often you "should" use the Aztec clay mask will depend on your skin type and sensitivities. Why? Because the clay can be super drying or sensitizing, especially when you mix it with the recommended apple cider vinegar. If you've got oily skin, Dr. Lal recommends masking up one to two times per week, while those with drier skin types should use it way less (i.e., start with once a week or once every other week).
Why does your skin turn red after use?
There are two reasons your skin could be red after using the Aztec clay mask: (1) You're having an allergic reaction (you'll know it if your skin feels burning, tingling, itching, and/or hives start appearing). If that's the case, wash your face immediately, pop a Benadryl, and consider consulting a doctor or heading to the E.R. if you're experiencing other symptoms. It's also possible the mix of vinegar and clay just irritated your skin (hi, sensitive-skin folks). The irritation is temporary, but always make sure to patch-test future products on your neck 24 hours beforehand to check for a reaction.
The other more likely reason your skin turns red after using the Aztec clay mask? (2) It's part of ~the process~. The tub of clay reads that "slight redness of the skin is normal and will disappear in about 30 minutes" (mine was a legit tomato-red for a solid half-hour). But...why? According to Dr. Lal, "your skin turns red because the minerals in the clay aid in circulation and bring more blood flow to your skin." The fancy terminology for this reaction? Cutaneous vasodilation. Basically, a similar effect that would come from doing 30 jumping jacks.
Final thoughts
Though our experiment with the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay showed some promising results in just a few weeks, it will likely take a longer amount of time to truly take on its full effect. Still, we all agree that our skin feels softer, looks more even, and has been breaking out less—so overall, we give this mask an A. But remember, your skin may react totally different, so it's important to do a patch test beforehand and slowly work up to regular use.
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